How is a 14v upgrade 16.5v ?

14v should be 14v...a 16v system might be 16v ? lol

 

Battery charges at a higher voltage. 12v system charges around 14.2. 14v systems charge around 16.5 and a 16v system charges around upper 18s

 

Good results. What alt part number? Why not just get the alt that would support your 12V system and produce 14.2V at 7K?

 

Power Master 482038 Edit: With eBay 3" pulley that is referenced earlier in this thread to slow it down. The stock pulley would have been way too small. With the 3" pulley I'm only spinning the alt 17.5k at 7500 rpm.

In my research I came across several threads on upgrading to either a 14V or 16V system. Almost everyone talked about how much better everything worked on the higher voltages and there were almost zero negative reviews, other than a few who had issues with a 16V system on their street car, because most electronics don't like being charged at upper 18 or even 19V. I was already spending money on an alternator, and my existing battery was 6 years old as well. Big part of it too is I came across an old Yellow Bullet post from XS Power offering up B stock items. I called XS power and they were able to sell me B stock 14V battery and charger for about 70% of new. So instead of spending $550 on a battery and charger it was $377. Basically I knew I had voltage issues and was already spending money on the electrical system, so why not upgrade at the same time?

 

Just double check the specs of any electronic device you add later,, if you add something that potentially can't handle over 18V you might want to put a regulator diode between the device and power source for protection.

 

I really don't need to add anything further down the road electronically that would be affected by the higher voltage. My car is already set up with a Holley Dominator to control everything and my research has determined that has no issue with the 16.5-16.8V my alternator charges at. The only items I'll be adding in the future would be more 0-5V pressure sensors, which are controlled by the dominator. I went with the 14V system specifically so nothing saw over 16.8V as I did read about people having issues in the 18-19V range, but I also see people charging there with no issues for several years as well. I made a good rip on the interstate at 20 PSI and then checked the log, voltage is solid at 16.5V. I don't believe I'll have any voltage related issues with this 14V system.

 

New Mechman alt got here and is working perfectly at this time.

Charges 14.7-14.9v all the way to 7k. Very happy.

If I have a single issue again I’m going to a 16v system... wouldn’t mind the power windows flying up and down either 😝

I just don’t wanna buy a 16v lithium battery 😳

 

Good deal! Should be a healthy kick in the *** to your pump as is. What did it end up costing again? I'm still battling mine... So annoying.

 

JS Alternator 250a is $300. Mechman is in the $5-$600 range.

 

I was just throwing that out there for stuff like GPS, or other side electronics, radios, stuff like that.. wasn't 100% sure if you went with the middle or the higher voltage setup.. Gage's are one item that gets forgotten..

Cheers

 

Is this using all 3 factory mount points or 2 like the truck?

 

So I'm at a crossroad here in that I'm in need of a new battery and upgraded alternator. My original path was an Odyssey (Group 34 OEM or Group 24 for bed mounted box) and I was looking into either Mechman 250 or DC power 270 for an alternator. This 14v has really peaked my interest and from what I've read I shouldn't have any issues running the following:

* Holley Terminator Xmax system (engine management)
* OEM ECM (A/C and Blower controls)
* GM Silverado electric fans
* Aftermarket power windows
* HID headlights
* Aftermarket radio (nothing crazy here, just for Radio/Bluetooth)
* Either Dual AEM 400's or possibly AEM400/Magnafuel 4703 combo (only if the dual 400's do not work out for whatever reason)
* Remote transmission cooler w/fan

So is the D1400 with the Powermaster XS alternator to adjust/regulate the voltage the only way to go or could I go D1400/DC power alternator/XS Power controller (P/N XSP320-313-VCM/GM D&AD)? Obviously the ladder of the two will be more expensive but curious if anyone sees something I'm not.

I'm going to drive this thing a whole heck of lot more than race it, so not sure of there are any issues in the respect? I couldn't find much searching.

I'm of the opinion anymore I want to do this once and pay now and god forbid enjoy later.

 

You shouldn't have any issues with the items you outline on a 14V system. Heck there are several people I came across in my research that didn't have any issues with the items you outline on the 16V system, charging at 19.1V, even on factory fox mustang old *** wiring, but there were a few I ran across that did. I played it safe and went with the 14V just to ensure no issues, and it is still a very nice upgrade. I'm running basically everything you outlined on my fox mustang (including holley dominator) on the 14V with no issues so far (only about 2 weeks but I don't anticipate any if they haven't came up yet). It's going to gain you some headroom on your electrical fuel pump as well as it is basically a hit wire/boost a pump upgrade.

I went with the XS volt alternator due to the adjust-ability because of the options it gives you. If I did end up having issues with the 14V or at any point wanted to go either up or down, I'm not out an alternator. You simply throw a different battery in it and adjust the potentiometer to your desired charging voltage. At first I was just going to upgrade the alternator with the XS volt and do a battery later down the road due to budget concerns. But then I said F it and did it "right" the first time. The XS volt alternator I went with is the 200A unit which upon receiving actually put out more like 210A, is part number 482038. I purchased it for $369.58 tax included from seller ASA Performance direct off Amazon. It takes them 3-5 days to ship but I received everything as advertised brand new with test certificate direct from Power Master.

In my research I also came across this thread regarding the sale of B stock XS Power items on YellowBullet:
https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads...057338/page-11
Turns out Byron no longer works there, but I did get in contact with another sales rep who helped me out. They did end up having a D1400 and 14V intelli charger in B stock and the prices were right at 70% of new. I purchased by B stock items as follows:
D1400 Battery - $197.99
HF 1415 Charger - $151.19
Shipping: $28.61
Total: $377.79
I believe these items would be around $550 new, so that made me pull the trigger on B stock. It is basically blems or scratch and dent. There is only a 30 day warranty rather than the 1 year on new, but they verify everything is in perfect working condition before sending out. I can confirm my battery was charged exactly per spec when received, and still holds a good charge. Confirmed the charger I received is in good working condition as well. May not be for everyone, but I'm all about a 30% savings vs new for a cosmetic blem.

I'm SUPER happy with my upgrades and the 14V system in general so far. One of the best upgrades I've done to the car. Best part is it absolutely fixed my fuel pressure drop issue which I can only conclude was due to my dropping voltage. As outlined previous I've made several 20 PSI rips up to 7K and voltage held rock solid at 16.6V. I did have to go with the larger 3" alternator pulley from eBay as the stock supplied unit would be way over the 18K rpm range above 7k. It was cheap and went on without issue though. It does sacrifice idle charge a bit as it only charges at a dead idle - warm - at about 15.5-15.8V but literally anything above an 850 rpm idle and it's at the full 16.5-16.9V. Even when coasting while driving or to a stop at 900-1000 RPM and it's in the designated 16.5-16.6 range so I'm really not worried about it.

EDIT: Sorry I never answered your direct question about alternators. You have 2 options: decide on an upgraded voltage and run everything off of that. Or as you outlined go to a certain voltage but then add a power controller that drops things down to 12V so you can run certain items you would be concerned with off that. What I would do if I was you is either just go with the 14V system and run everything off that without a drop down. Or go to a 16V system and use the drop down pieces to give you a feed for 12V for the Holley and whatever else you determine won't like 19+ volts. I'm obviously partial to how I did things so I would just go 14V, and let things rip at the 16.5-16.9V charging set point. Nothing you have should be affect by being fed by that voltage, and most things will actually like it more.

 

Well there ya have it! GREATLY appreciate the reply and feedback. If you'd like to PM me the contact for the B stock items I'll send shoot them a call or e-mail to see if they have any more, I'm down with 30% discount if available.

 

You're welcome sir! Happy to help.

XS Power Contact:John A. Guerin (Gare-in)

Sales Associate & Proud Member of XSPB’s Million Dollar Sales Club

XS Power Batteries: The Recipient of the 2019 Energy Battery Group: Product Innovator of the Year Award!

2847 John Deere Dr

Suite 102

Knoxville, TN 37917

PH: 865-688-5953 ext. 1214

Fax: 865-281-9844

 

John just got another sale on a D1400 and HF1415 charger.

Post #50 is the pulley I need? I believe I'll be in the 6500-6800rpm range as well and definitely no more than 7000.

I'll probably end up with a standard diameter ATI balancer but otherwise stock truck accessories.

 

Yes the pulley in #50 is what I used as well. The power master alterantor and nut uses a huge lock washer on it that prevented me from getting the new 3" pulley on the Power Master alternator shaft as the assembly was too wide and the nut would just barely start but then it was out of thread. I simply omitted the lock washer and installed the pulley bolt with blue loctite. It works fine for me but as the other poster in #50 mentions you may need a small washer behind the pulley for correct alignment.

I believe you will need this larger pulley no matter what. BUT you should do your own due diligence! The reason I say that and the info you need to figure out if you are ok or not is as follows:

I believe I have a stock size ATI Balancer as well. I measured it with a tape and it was about 7.25" outside to outside. The belt rides on a smaller surface area so I went with 7" diameter damper to be safe. To find alternator RPM the formula is as follows: (damper diameter in inches) / (alternator pulley diameter in inches) x engine RPM.

So with the stock pulley that comes on the power master alt (52mm, using a straight 2" to be safe) and assuming you are using the same stock size 7" damper you would have 7"/ 2" = 3.5. x 6500 rpm = 22,750 alternator rpm. WAY too much.

Using the eBay 3" pulley you get: 7/3 = 2.33. x 6500 = 15,166. 7500 rpm is 17,500. That has plenty of safety factor built in. You do sacrifice a bit of charing at idle, if you have a low idle speed. But you really don't need much charging at idle, it's up top where it counts and you'll be right in the meat of GOOD alternator rpm with that larger 3" pulley.

 

$400

And like I said.... it did cook second pass lol, but they took it back, called me and discussed what happened/didn’t happen and what my application was. They rebuilt it, changed the pulley size, and sent it back. The thing will still throw 15.2v at the battery on a cold start with the bigger pulley 😳

They said I didn’t hurt it by over spinning it. They in fact said it failed in a way that they don’t ever see, and could only really chalk it up to a manufacturing flaw in the stator (I think he said),

I’ve since done a little street driving and went to another race. No issues with the alternator at all. And it looks nice 🤷‍♂️

Would have liked to get out of it cheaper... but I’m a happy customer with no regrets

 

This "purchase pre-made" concept is definitely something to keep in mind. I ran into a similar situation. I wanted the vehicle-side obd2 port for building a bench harness. It was 1/3 the cost to buy a two-foot-long obd2 extension cord, than it was to buy just the one end I needed.