Another maf screen question
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 302
Likes: 9
From: Pa
Another maf screen question Hey guys got and 01 trans am. Bought it used had the car 4 years and the car is in storage for the winter. However I have a question that struck me recently. My car is frost tuned 1 and 3/4 hooker headers catless y pipe and a MagnaFlow cat back and gears, lid and ported throttle body. It struck me as I was setting on the recliner a few weeks ago my maf didn't have a screen and I researched until my eyeballs were dry. Lol. The car never misses a beat. I mean runs strong very strong. I like to do things right and I understand why the factory would use the screen for that model year, then of course the hotrod articles where they removed it for a free mod and pick up power, that I don't care about. But my point is I have had no drivability issues. Should I buy a used maf and swap out the screen? Thanks fellas let me know your thoughts.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 557
Likes: 9
From: Bowling Green KY
The screen is only there just incase you start it up with out an air filter in it, having a leaking air filter box, or have a leak in the intake air path after the filter.. It is to protect sucking something into the engine, it really has nothing to do with the MAF, other than that is where it was put. It could be anywhere in the intake, it makes sense to have it before the MAF because it will also protect the filament in the MAF. However that is minor, the real danger the screen protects from is sucking a pebble down the intake tract and down into the cylinder. As long as you make sure you don't start it up in a dirty area without a filter in it and suck a bunch of dirt or leaves into it, you have nothing to worry about.
The screen is only there just incase you start it up with out an air filter in it, having a leaking air filter box, or have a leak in the intake air path after the filter.. It is to protect sucking something into the engine, it really has nothing to do with the MAF, other than that is where it was put. It could be anywhere in the intake, it makes sense to have it before the MAF because it will also protect the filament in the MAF. However that is minor, the real danger the screen protects from is sucking a pebble down the intake tract and down into the cylinder. As long as you make sure you don't start it up in a dirty area without a filter in it and suck a bunch of dirt or leaves into it, you have nothing to worry about.
It straightens out the air turbulence entering the MAF to create laminar air flow to the actual sensor for more accurate readings.....it's a myth that it makes more horsepower. You can't create horsepower from what isn't there....you'll be fine removing it, but the result is negligible....
T,
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TECH Addict
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: PDX-OR-USA
I've worked on a couple high end track cars that use a honeycomb looking screen thats like 2" thick before the MAF because they were having issues with turbulence inside the MAF at the RPM's they were running. Flow testing showed the mAF flowed more air with their deep screens, Of course this was a V8 turning about 12K rpm's... With a million dollar engine budget.. 
Not mine.. I can't afford a wheel of that kind of car..
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 302
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From: Pa
Thanks for the input guys. Whenever I was read5on the maf screens I came across the Saxon pcv screen, however upon research I don't believe the size he has listed is incorrect what is the size from what I read a little at work today it's 75 mm if I were to get the Saxon screen any insight on the correct size would be awesome Thanks.
I swapped the tbss to a ls7 maf setup and had to use a Saxon pc honeycomb on it. The maf HZ moved around to much without it and wasn't stable. Adding the screen helped a lot!
I wouldn't worry about one in a stock maf tho. The diameter is small smaller and they don't have a lot of resolution like the newer card mafs.
I wouldn't worry about one in a stock maf tho. The diameter is small smaller and they don't have a lot of resolution like the newer card mafs.
The screen is only there just incase you start it up with out an air filter in it, having a leaking air filter box, or have a leak in the intake air path after the filter.. It is to protect sucking something into the engine, it really has nothing to do with the MAF, other than that is where it was put. It could be anywhere in the intake, it makes sense to have it before the MAF because it will also protect the filament in the MAF. However that is minor, the real danger the screen protects from is sucking a pebble down the intake tract and down into the cylinder. As long as you make sure you don't start it up in a dirty area without a filter in it and suck a bunch of dirt or leaves into it, you have nothing to worry about.
It's easily proved that high-RPM MAP increases
when you swap in a descreened MAF with no
other change. Screen induced pressure drop is
substantial. This is where you remove some
upper end torque fade and gain HP.
Yes, the "screen" stops bugs. So does putting
your lid on properly. Your call.
I have seen no issues with descreened 75mm
or 85mm Delphi MAFs on my car, with its straight
inlet tract. Other geometries can find some issues.
Sometimes these can be solved by just rotating
the MAF orientation so that airflow bias from
close-in bends is minimized in its effect.
I have seen that over-porting (like removing the
center vane) leads to unstable operation. But
this, on a MAF which stock-but-descreened was
normal and fine before hogging.
Removing screens is easy and used MAFs are
cheap, so do your experimenting by simple
swappage and stick with what works for you
in the end.
when you swap in a descreened MAF with no
other change. Screen induced pressure drop is
substantial. This is where you remove some
upper end torque fade and gain HP.
Yes, the "screen" stops bugs. So does putting
your lid on properly. Your call.
I have seen no issues with descreened 75mm
or 85mm Delphi MAFs on my car, with its straight
inlet tract. Other geometries can find some issues.
Sometimes these can be solved by just rotating
the MAF orientation so that airflow bias from
close-in bends is minimized in its effect.
I have seen that over-porting (like removing the
center vane) leads to unstable operation. But
this, on a MAF which stock-but-descreened was
normal and fine before hogging.
Removing screens is easy and used MAFs are
cheap, so do your experimenting by simple
swappage and stick with what works for you
in the end.