So this is strange. 80% cyl fill or more seems like i get a misfire. And it isn't just one of them- its all of them. I used TR6 NGK, ebay. I know the plug needs 0.025" or 0.028" for the ultimate fix but I didn't expect any blowout at 80% VE. We are talking 80% at 550rpm, in gear forward idle load this thing blows out using the TR6 And 80% anywhere else.

If this isn't normal, I would sure love to know. Seems like a really simple thing- but this is the only 5.3 I have ever seen run in person with a 45 thou gap on a stock computer/ignition (125 OS is from the OEM 5.3L Engine with this coil). So, not the native plug, might be fine with native plug? I don't really want to buy oem plugs just to test, but its still a possible action taken for a diag. procedure before I put on new plug wires.


So if you can confirm this, I suspect it should not happen. This is diagnostic procedure:
all process (with multi significant figure (more significant figure in some places where allowable which represent a program code))
The square root of:
-2.0 verify/check injector desired end spray in terms of crankshaft revolution as success
-1.0 look at plugs current condition
00.0 disable one injector at a time (99.998%)
01.0 replace one plug wire at a time (51%)
02.0 replace one coil at a time (27.0%)
03.0 replace ALL injectors (0.001%)
04.0 replace ALL plug wires at once (49%)
05.0 replace aLL coils at a time (26%)
06.0 adjust computer operating system parameter (change dwell, timing advance drastically to procure result) ( 07.778%)
07.0 adjust fuel type (25%)
09.0

actual process:
I might actually take the time to swap one plugwire at a time. But probably not, I don't feel like going that slow. I will most likely jump right to the finished minimum, new wires, sleeves (insulate), and will try 0.028" TR6 because I am impatient. What i would LIKE to do is force the oem wires to handle the environment that the engine creates for them, with as little special custom shielding and special custom anythings. For example, lets say I found cylinder 8 was more likely to misfire with a good confirmed oem wire (it works on other cylinders) at high temps because of its surroundings (it is also hotter than the rest). In other words, we have tried other coils and other plug wires and the situation still persist on that cylinder, and you are unaware of any mechanical reason, then maybe the cause is the high temp. In order to test that theory we might make a custom shield for it to keep the temp down, which, if it actually worked, we could remove and re-verify that was indeed the cause. That would help prove that was actually fixed or compensated for the 'problem', which you may not have noticed if you had never tried the oem plug wires. maybe the new wires you installed mask the higher temp on that cylinder's components. So this is what i hope to gain by doing this- I might see something correlated to the temperature of the engine installation which would help me place custom shields or other similar improvements, like ducts, fans, special edge character of the engine bay for helping move the air through it in a controlled manner, and then verifying that i actually made an improvement by removing those custom pieces and re-acquiring the problem/issue.

Another issue is the reliance on a smaller gap and potential economy benefit of a larger one. If there is a significant advantage to using a larger gap or other ignition/fuel strategies they should be sought out and used if possible. there may be an acceptable way to get a 0.035" or 0.055" gap to fire even with 7 or 15psi of boost. If this option exists it is elite to any plug gap reduction related solution.

 

Did it start doing this suddenly, or gradually? And all misfiring..... (obviously not all at once lol). What are the misfire intervals? Every few seconds, many per second?

 

I can't understand wtf your talking about. What do you mean by 80% cyl fill?

 

I honestly didn't read half the stuff you said, I have no idea what you are referring to with "Cylinder Fill", and you repeated the first 2 parts. The OEM plug wires are more than enough to handle your ignition, engine, and its environment, no reason to create anything "Custom". I do no understand what you mean by "Force the oem plug wires to handle the environment that the engine creates". If the cylinder continues to misfire after changing coil/plug wire/plug that are in perfect working order, then it is not the ignition and possibly something mechanically wrong, creating your custom plug wire wont change that. If you insist on some custom shielding for your plug wire, you can purchase heat resistant plug wire covers/socks from Summit or Jegs. There are high HP engines running the stock OEM ignition system components including coils and wires, a stock 5.3 will be fine with OEM stock stuff.

Did this happen after you started using the TR6 plugs? Why do you think the plugs need 0.026-0.028" gap setting?

If it is a Stock N/A 5.3, try running a TR55/TR5 and gap at 0.040-0.060", I would start around 0.055" and see how it idles and go from there.

From my experience, tighter gaps are best for Nitrous or Boost. Larger Gap settings produce a better burn to a certain point, to much gap results in "Blow out".

You say you have never seen a stock 5.3 run on 0.045" gap with stock ignition, but GM recommends 0.040" on newer 5.3s, and the older ones used to be 0.060".

 

Okay guys thanks for looking, please relax, I am not trying to make this difficult to read. Its sort of a detective work for a first-time investigation of the capability of stock parts on a custom swap. There is no way to tell if my environment is inhospitable to the stock parts, yet, this is what I am trying to divulge slowly (I have a bunch of custom exhaust plumbing running all over the place, with "light" wrapping etc). The engine does not misfire (as much or any) when cool around idle speeds, so there is a feature of temp related high resistance playing a role, even if it is only over-sensitive or weak ignition components in play (bad wires are a very high possibility at the moment, they are random high mileage)

This process will reveal to me (and anybody who doesn't already know) how various oem ignition parts function together in my particular swap setting with the TR6. Many of you already know this stuff. I am like a baby trying real food for the first time. Excited to move on to some boost, but being cautious because I do not wish to mask a potential problem right from the start by using high quality components without trying old/free stuff first.

 

You way over think everything man. Also it would be a lot easier for people to help if you would limit the amount of off the wall nonsense in the post. I still don't understand what is the issue.

 

I think he is saying that the engine is misfiring under load in the lower rpm's?

 

Change your plugs.

 

i have no idea what the hell is even going on.....

 

I think he's trolling us.

 

The best answer I can give to the title of this post is that it is NOT normal for anyone to put in plugs without checking what they are gapped at. I did not bother to read the wall of text that followed, as I suspect it is the result of improper medication.

 

I believe you are correct

 

Ill re-word my carefully constructed conundrum within a single sentence

"is it normal for 0.045" TR6 plugs to blowout when using oem ignition plug wires at minimal, non-rpm dependent cylinder pressure"

I suspect the answer is "NO". But anyone who says "YES I've done that and had it happen" would be saving me about 2 hours of trial and error since I've never run a TR6 before in anything. Once I find out the limitation of the OEM coil/wire etc... I can move on and never touch oem wires again. This experiment is designed to reveal weakness in the oem components when using traditional "upgrades" with non traditional settings (big gap on a plug designated for low boost). It would normally not have become a question at all except the vehicle runs and drives normal under that specific load, which tells me that they all might be misfiring (its hard to tell just yet), which means the weakness isn't in the mileage, it is a factory derived limitation (perhaps the plug has a high resistance than the OEM plug at that gap setting and is incompatible with the coil, for example). This would be very important later at high power settings to fully comprehend.

I will give an additional example so you can see why I go to such measures. The Factory steam port tube- where does it go? The factory heater core lines- where do they go? Loop the lines, or block them off? steam port tube to water pump, upper hose, upper radiator core, or front heater core line? You find information about where to put these items all over the place- some have success with multiple locations, but where do they really go? I have done independent testing and determined, the same way I am doing so above with the plug setting, that there are "good" and "better" ways of doing these things. The steam port tube on my engine now routes to the upper radiator tank as opposed to water pump, and the water pump heater core lines are both blocked, because of testing and research that led me to those locations as optimal. LS6 valley cover? Not on my engine. I don't just find stuff on the internet and use it because people say so. I test everything and make my own decisions, at least if they are wrong they are founded on testing and not an internet based guess.

this thread i will update with answers. anything i find will be repeated, the info available.
If you want to see some logs and computer related with the vehicle, config information, and a few solved issues please see:
https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showt...arged-5-3L-LSx
https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showt...or-speedy-diag

 

Here's where almost everyone here starts ignoring you. You say in 100 words what could be done in about 20. Plus, your "experimenting" is traveling a well-worn path. Finding the limitations of stock wiring, etc.??? That which is used in 1000+HP engines without fail?? What is the point, EXACTLY?? It's like seeing if in fact water boils at 212degrees at sea level. And elsewhere, you debated ad nauseum about the LS oil system, inserting the fact you know ZIP about the system. But kept going on a perceived conflict of words that were not actually so.
Bottom line- If YOU have an actual LS-related problem, bring it here. But don't get into a pissing contest on LS technical theory with guys here who are miles ahead of you on theoretical AND practical knowledge. And if/when you are offered a solution to said problem, consider the source, see how long he's been around here, and go from there.

 

and back away from the

 

ignore him. he will go away eventually.

 

so nobody has ever actually tried right. I am the first person to attempt this then plug at 0.045"? IS what you are telling me, is all I wanted to know. I turned it into an example flow charts so you can learn, not so I can complicate it. The print is lowest smallest word English I could come up with, I didn't try to impress anyone with fancy words or catch phrases, I exactly detailed the observation and implied that this was the first time somebody would have attempted this or kept a record of it.

 

Ive ran those plugs at .055" at 13 psi no blowout.

 

Answer: thank you for this confirmation, stonework foundation of expectation: OEM coils work well.

you are using heat-sink style oem coilpacks and OEM wires? If not OEM, please describe.

 

You are NOW discovering what 90% of the guys here have known for +/- a decade...
So YOU discovering it to be true now makes it legit??