Timing changing, not sure why
Thanks in advance guys
Dave
I don't have enough experience yet and the HPtuner is so full of misc. settings that just looking at a log is only a small part of a large story.
I do find it curious that it says pressure is 5.x psi in one place and 9psi in another place though. I don't run a maf so I am not sure how that works for you.
From my investigation:
IAT correction at these temps is all 0s
ECT correction at operating temps are all 0s
No EGR so those are all 0s
AFR correction all 0s
"should not' be in idle tables here?
I don't have enough experience yet and the HPtuner is so full of misc. settings that just looking at a log is only a small part of a large story.
I do find it curious that it says pressure is 5.x psi in one place and 9psi in another place though. I don't run a maf so I am not sure how that works for you.
I think I can change the value of that vacuum to InHg
The vacuum is in PSI so 9 psi of vacuum is 18.32 inches of mercury but I'm not sure where it is referenced.
The MAP value is based on barometric pressure. So at WOT it should be about what the barometric pressure is at your altitude. So for me at sea level my N/A MAP value is ~13.8psi or 28.1 InHg. Although my current Baro is 29.9 at WOT i'm still seeing 1" of vacuum so combining the 13.8psi MAP with the 1psi of manifold vacuum that's 14.8 psi or ~30" of baro pressure.
Last edited by TT_Vert; Sep 12, 2017 at 06:38 PM.
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Dave
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Dave
Hopefully someone can shed some light on this idle spark table as I have a sneaking suspicion this may have something to do w/ it.
Did I miss any possible timing adders LOL?
Dave
Last edited by TT_Vert; Sep 12, 2017 at 11:49 PM.
Would still love idle timing table info if anyone has it.
Dave
Last edited by TT_Vert; Sep 13, 2017 at 12:02 AM.
Always run 93 octane. The internals are stock (LS6 shortblock not that it matters), no knock settings other than decay rate have been changed. Running 11:1 and about a .040" quench. The car always feels great and has amazing low RPM torque. I've played w/ the timing tables both at the track and on the street (Never a dyno) and it just feels great where it is. But I basically started w/ adding 4 degrees and pulling timing out in certain problem areas. I did that about 10 years ago and never really touched it again. That was when tuning of these things wasn't as solidly defined as it is today but it seemed to work and I certainly can't argue w/ the track performance, street performance, fuel efficiency or driveability.
Do you mean high octane vs. low octane? if so, no. My low octane table is exactly 4 degrees lower than my high octane table. However my KLF is at 1.00 so it's always in the full octane table. When I do get KR it'll once and a while get down to .99 but right back up to 1.00 in a few frames.
also how much of a drop are you seeing? for example, is it going from average of 35* then suddenly dropping down to 20*?
Dave
Why not copy the HOT table to the idle table and see what happens?










