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Cam Swap/No check engine light

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Old Oct 7, 2017 | 10:47 AM
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Default Cam Swap/No check engine light

So I did a Ls Swap on my 1966 Pontiac. It is a 2003 Silverado HD 2000 6.0 Liters with some modifications to it. Ls1 Camaro Intake and injectors. I kept the DBW from the truck just for giggles. I installed a Howards Rattler Cam part number HRS-198035-09 with 226/234 duration and .525 valve lift. I have been driving the car maybe 5 miles a week just to see what it does. I have no check engine light and the only problem is that it stall at hard braking. has anybody had this issue where you do this type of swap and no check engine light at all?
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Old Oct 7, 2017 | 11:09 AM
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Have you actually hooked it up to a scanner to see if its throwing codes?

Cam swaps don't typically throw codes.
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Old Oct 12, 2017 | 09:39 PM
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Don't you have to tune idle for the cam...?
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Old Oct 13, 2017 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by joecar
Don't you have to tune idle for the cam...?
I'm sure that explains why it stalls on him under hard braking. However, I remember the bad old days when people put big cams in and just crossed their fingers that it would work, because they had no way to tune at all. His isn't remotely as big as some of the crap people used to drive with completely untuned.
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Old Oct 14, 2017 | 01:40 PM
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Thanks guys. that is what I thought. It is not the biggest cam on the market so the issue is creating is minimal but still requires tuning. I am still searching for a Top Gun tuner here in NJ. I heard good things about East Coast supercharging and Cartek. Any suggestions?
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Old Oct 15, 2017 | 05:17 AM
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Complete Street Performance in pa close to south jersey. Andrew is the man. Ecs supercharging are good but I wouldn’t go to Cartek.
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by gagliano7
Complete Street Performance in pa close to south jersey. Andrew is the man. Ecs supercharging are good but I wouldn’t go to Cartek.
Appreciate the recommendation .

OP feel free to reach out to us if we can be of help!
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 09:42 PM
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So finally got my car dyno at ECS this past Saturday. Engine is pretty much stock except that I did a cam swap. Results were 312HP/318LB.TQ at rear wheels. The engine was advertise at crank with 300 HP and 360 lb.tq but in reality is more like 240 hp and 288 lb/tq at rear wheels factory. The Dyno results tells me that that I gained 82 HP and 30 lb/tq at rear wheels with just a camswap and a tune. Now i need gears and it will feel much better on the road.
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Old Oct 31, 2017 | 07:31 AM
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How are you liking that cam? I have the small Howard's rattler sitting on the shelf that I've been wanting to use for a long long time but haven't found a good opportunity yet.
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Old Oct 31, 2017 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
How are you liking that cam? I have the small Howard's rattler sitting on the shelf that I've been wanting to use for a long long time but haven't found a good opportunity yet.
Not bad. Sounds great too.
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Old Feb 7, 2018 | 06:41 PM
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So after months driving I found that the car only stalls,bogs, etc when hard acceleration after a complete stop. For example: If i pull car out of the garage, get on the street and put the pedal to the metal it does not pill tires or chirp tires. it feels like it wants to shut down but if Iam rolling and punch it boys it pulls hard and runs great. what could it be??????
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Old Feb 8, 2018 | 07:43 PM
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Do you have anyway of logging while it is bogging? Seeing a log file would help a lot.
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Old Feb 9, 2018 | 07:43 PM
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No I dont have that capability. I am just gonna take it back to ECS for another run. Should I ask him to do a dyno run with engine idling on drive then punch it? Any thoughts?
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