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Used hp tuners to set vats to none... car still wont start on occasion due to the security light. I have to wait and start it when the light turns off. What can i do when vats stays on even though its tuned out. Ive tried full write as well as quick. I cant drive the car with this issue. I heard a friend dad tested the resistance of his key and wired in a resistor to replace his key. Is this a good alternative. if so which wire is it???
Usually there are a few different tables dealing with vats. Look under os table. And under engine diagnostic. Also disable starter faults or it will disable it from starting.
There is 2 parts to vats, part 1 in the ecm, part 2 in the bcm. Tuning software is only disabling part 1, if the bcm is the issue the car still will not start. There are ways to get around the vats in the bcm also.
I don't know if you figured this out yet but I had a similar experience.
Bought a 2004 GMC and it randomly began to not start every once in a while. There was no consistency. Drove for about a week or two after buying it when it refused to start the first time. I thought that VATS was the problem so I unlocked the PCM and and disabled the VATS. I thought I had solved the problem. Later on the truck refused to start again so the VATS removal didn't help it.......
I then learned about the PASSKEY bullshit so I researched that a good deal and ended up determining the resistance the passkey system was looking for by measuring with a meter. I soldered in resistors to replicate the expected resistance the PASSKEY system was expecting. I was sure this would fix it..... It didn't.......
What I finally ended up doing is putting a momentary switch in the dash that is tied to the "Starter Enable Relay". I never was able to figure out why this no start issue happens from time to time, but whenever it does, I just hit the momentary switch and it starts right up that way. It bypasses all the onboard bullshit, BCM, VATS, PASSKEY...... All those systems have to play nice together in order for the starter enable relay to finally be enabled to start the vehicle......
There is 2 parts to vats, part 1 in the ecm, part 2 in the bcm. Tuning software is only disabling part 1, if the bcm is the issue the car still will not start. There are ways to get around the vats in the bcm also.
Well, what needs to be done to "fix" this?
Mine has been trouble-free starting for a month, but since draining the battery down the other day, diagnosing a non-related issue, it has failed to start twice, maybe 3 times...luckily, while still in the garage.
The SECURITY light would come on very intermittently, while driving, but since recharging the battery, it has come on, at KEY ON, like said, maybe 3 times, and stayed ON, which wouldn't let the car start.
Car is a 2000 Trans Am with 2002 Silverado, 3 bar S/D OS...VATS disabled via my HPTuners. and not sure what else to do.
Can you tell me where ithis "starter enable relay" os at?
I'm not sure on the F body but on one of my dailys, the 04 GMC I mentioned above it's located on the underhood relay and fuse panel
There's the bypass switch I installed.
Here is the relay I tied into to bypass all the onboard bullshit. I tried for weeks to fix it the "right way". I decided this was the better fix... All the onboard bullshit GM put in is more effective at keeping you from driving than someone from stealing it.
I'm not sure on the F body but on one of my dailys, the 04 GMC I mentioned above it's located on the underhood relay and fuse panel
There's the bypass switch I installed.
Here is the relay I tied into to bypass all the onboard bullshit. I tried for weeks to fix it the "right way". I decided this was the better fix... All the onboard bullshit GM put in is more effective at keeping you from driving than someone from stealing it.
Thanks. So you just have the switch sending voltage to where it "should" already be when it is working properly?
It's been a few months since I went through that headache so I can't remember the specifics but basically the switch I added will close the relay contacts thereby sending voltage to the starter solenoid.... It's a switched ground IIRC... so one of the wires from my bypass switch goes to one of the relay pins that ordinarily would get a ground if all the onboard bullshit is working correctly, and the other wire from my bypass switch is just grounded out to the frame... So when you hit the switch the relay has no choice but to close the contacts and send voltage to the starter.....
It's been a few months since I went through that headache so I can't remember the specifics but basically the switch I added will close the relay contacts thereby sending voltage to the starter solenoid.... It's a switched ground IIRC... so one of the wires from my bypass switch goes to one of the relay pins that ordinarily would get a ground if all the onboard bullshit is working correctly, and the other wire from my bypass switch is just grounded out to the frame... So when you hit the switch the relay has no choice but to close the contacts and send voltage to the starter.....
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Vats wont disable 
