New LQ9 Build stumble at half throttle
07-02-2018, 07:33 PM
#22
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies guys!
Today I found the vacuum line that connects to the PCV had a split. Replaced and although it does idle smoother the half throttle stumble is still present. I went ahead and changed plugs TR55's just to eliminate that in the equation, and no change. For the tuner guys ^^^ I have a question... I installed Delphi Flex Fuel Injectors 50 lb/hr 4 bar @ 58 psi (12613412) to a return type fuel rail with the vacuum regulator. The injectors are designed for 2010+ trucks with a returnless rail. Would the injector data be different in HP Tuners for a return system vs a returnless type system?
Today I found the vacuum line that connects to the PCV had a split. Replaced and although it does idle smoother the half throttle stumble is still present. I went ahead and changed plugs TR55's just to eliminate that in the equation, and no change. For the tuner guys ^^^ I have a question... I installed Delphi Flex Fuel Injectors 50 lb/hr 4 bar @ 58 psi (12613412) to a return type fuel rail with the vacuum regulator. The injectors are designed for 2010+ trucks with a returnless rail. Would the injector data be different in HP Tuners for a return system vs a returnless type system?
07-02-2018, 08:32 PM
#24
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Pardon my total lack of knowledge of tuning, just tossing around "what could of's" in my head. I need scan data before I shoot more parts at the problem.
07-03-2018, 07:17 AM
#25
Thanks for the replies guys!
Today I found the vacuum line that connects to the PCV had a split. Replaced and although it does idle smoother the half throttle stumble is still present. I went ahead and changed plugs TR55's just to eliminate that in the equation, and no change. For the tuner guys ^^^ I have a question... I installed Delphi Flex Fuel Injectors 50 lb/hr 4 bar @ 58 psi (12613412) to a return type fuel rail with the vacuum regulator. The injectors are designed for 2010+ trucks with a returnless rail. Would the injector data be different in HP Tuners for a return system vs a returnless type system?
Today I found the vacuum line that connects to the PCV had a split. Replaced and although it does idle smoother the half throttle stumble is still present. I went ahead and changed plugs TR55's just to eliminate that in the equation, and no change. For the tuner guys ^^^ I have a question... I installed Delphi Flex Fuel Injectors 50 lb/hr 4 bar @ 58 psi (12613412) to a return type fuel rail with the vacuum regulator. The injectors are designed for 2010+ trucks with a returnless rail. Would the injector data be different in HP Tuners for a return system vs a returnless type system?
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 07-03-2018 at 07:28 AM.
07-03-2018, 07:26 AM
#26
I recall I looked at Banish's manual too and wasn't impressed. Maslic's manual on the other hand is written so the reader can 'learn by example' with step by step instructions. Not just a lot of basic tuning theory which isn't very helpful when attempting to nail down idle for example.
07-03-2018, 02:44 PM
#27
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
07-07-2018, 05:28 PM
#28
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Installed AEM wideband today and cruise speed jumping mid 14's to low 15's.
When I slowly roll into the throttle at the stumble point the gauge drops rich into the 9's
When I slowly roll into the throttle at the stumble point the gauge drops rich into the 9's
07-08-2018, 12:48 AM
#29
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I've finally realized the spot I'm in...
There is no one local that can tune it. I could pay to haul the truck 90 miles to the nearest tuner or or drive it lean that far and toast the engine. Towing it that far and paying for a tune it's going to be at least a grand. I'm tired of pissing away money on this engine/trans build (eight grand and counting). New o2 sensors, wideband, FP gauge, plugs and other stuff, $300 and a truck that still runs like junk and wanting to just toast it's self, not counting on the $200+ on the mail order tune. I'm just burning money away.
If I would have bought a Holley carburetor, intake and MSD controller... I could have done everything myself from jetting, power valves, accelerator pumps, a/p cams and had it running perfect. I'm old school, built a lot of engines and never needed any outside help for tuning. Sure I could buy the HP tuners for $$$$ then the learning curve would be like chinese water torture to a old guy like me. The 4.3 is going back in or I'm re-installing the stock camshaft, 24lb injectors and a factory tuned PCM.
Lesson learned... mail order tunes are a crap shoot and may not get you to someone that can actually tune.
Don't even want to step a foot in the garage as the raw burnt fuel has permeated the packing in the mufflers... headache.
The build was great... no coolant or oil leaks, rings sealed, no valvetrain noise...
I guess I should just stay with SBC, BBC, AMC's
There is no one local that can tune it. I could pay to haul the truck 90 miles to the nearest tuner or or drive it lean that far and toast the engine. Towing it that far and paying for a tune it's going to be at least a grand. I'm tired of pissing away money on this engine/trans build (eight grand and counting). New o2 sensors, wideband, FP gauge, plugs and other stuff, $300 and a truck that still runs like junk and wanting to just toast it's self, not counting on the $200+ on the mail order tune. I'm just burning money away.
If I would have bought a Holley carburetor, intake and MSD controller... I could have done everything myself from jetting, power valves, accelerator pumps, a/p cams and had it running perfect. I'm old school, built a lot of engines and never needed any outside help for tuning. Sure I could buy the HP tuners for $$$$ then the learning curve would be like chinese water torture to a old guy like me. The 4.3 is going back in or I'm re-installing the stock camshaft, 24lb injectors and a factory tuned PCM.
Lesson learned... mail order tunes are a crap shoot and may not get you to someone that can actually tune.
Don't even want to step a foot in the garage as the raw burnt fuel has permeated the packing in the mufflers... headache.
The build was great... no coolant or oil leaks, rings sealed, no valvetrain noise...
I guess I should just stay with SBC, BBC, AMC's
Last edited by RedXray; 07-08-2018 at 12:55 AM.
07-08-2018, 07:57 AM
#30
Xray, I understand the frustration. We all had many but dont give up! I a, sure we all thought the same thing. This is my 5th f body and I always regretted the other 4 I sold and added mods but never got it where I wanted. Now I promised myself to make it right and STILL had feelings of it never will be right. Now I can rip WOT no knock smoke the tires through 80mph and destroy new stock sports cars at will. Is it perfect, no, but now that I can drive it comfortably without stall, surge I enjoy the fun of tuning and tweaking and making it better.
Back to my first post, I had a stock fuel system with a bigger pump with 80# injectors and my fuel PSI was giving me hell and addressed it mechanically and in the tune.
From your post I am assuming you now have a vac ref fuel reg? That is easier for tuning but you have to still a tune for it. When you start the car with vac line off the FPR what is the fuel PSI? With it running and hooked up what does it read? It should give you a stable fixed fuel PSI regardless of throttle.
Then what is your stock fuel injector flowrate for 0 vac? Its called the IFR table. In my case, its the 0 IFR value. it was 92.4. My actual idle fuel PSI was 65psi. I couldn't get it any lower. I also have a huge fuel pump and 8AN supply and 6AN return. I had my first tune at 92.4 (58psi setting) and my car would idle well but i had to pull a lot of fuel in the tune and after 2800rpm it bogged, flooded and wouldnt go into WOT. I took car back from tuner, he gave up. I checked for vac leaks and scaled my IFR.
(65/58)^sqrt of this value is my % increase = 1.058 then that times my original IFR = 92.4 x 1.058 = 97.8.
Then you need to go to your Fuel IFR table and set ALL your vac values to that number. Your flowrate will be fixed.
Then, since my IFR increased, I took more fuel away at idle (6-8%) so I had to add it back in. Up top it was closer to 98 value anyway and I was about 2% rich but it ran 100x better.
Back to my first post, I had a stock fuel system with a bigger pump with 80# injectors and my fuel PSI was giving me hell and addressed it mechanically and in the tune.
From your post I am assuming you now have a vac ref fuel reg? That is easier for tuning but you have to still a tune for it. When you start the car with vac line off the FPR what is the fuel PSI? With it running and hooked up what does it read? It should give you a stable fixed fuel PSI regardless of throttle.
Then what is your stock fuel injector flowrate for 0 vac? Its called the IFR table. In my case, its the 0 IFR value. it was 92.4. My actual idle fuel PSI was 65psi. I couldn't get it any lower. I also have a huge fuel pump and 8AN supply and 6AN return. I had my first tune at 92.4 (58psi setting) and my car would idle well but i had to pull a lot of fuel in the tune and after 2800rpm it bogged, flooded and wouldnt go into WOT. I took car back from tuner, he gave up. I checked for vac leaks and scaled my IFR.
(65/58)^sqrt of this value is my % increase = 1.058 then that times my original IFR = 92.4 x 1.058 = 97.8.
Then you need to go to your Fuel IFR table and set ALL your vac values to that number. Your flowrate will be fixed.
Then, since my IFR increased, I took more fuel away at idle (6-8%) so I had to add it back in. Up top it was closer to 98 value anyway and I was about 2% rich but it ran 100x better.
07-08-2018, 09:22 AM
#32
I've finally realized the spot I'm in...
There is no one local that can tune it. I could pay to haul the truck 90 miles to the nearest tuner or or drive it lean that far and toast the engine. Towing it that far and paying for a tune it's going to be at least a grand. I'm tired of pissing away money on this engine/trans build (eight grand and counting). New o2 sensors, wideband, FP gauge, plugs and other stuff, $300 and a truck that still runs like junk and wanting to just toast it's self, not counting on the $200+ on the mail order tune. I'm just burning money away.
If I would have bought a Holley carburetor, intake and MSD controller... I could have done everything myself from jetting, power valves, accelerator pumps, a/p cams and had it running perfect. I'm old school, built a lot of engines and never needed any outside help for tuning. Sure I could buy the HP tuners for $$$$ then the learning curve would be like chinese water torture to a old guy like me. The 4.3 is going back in or I'm re-installing the stock camshaft, 24lb injectors and a factory tuned PCM.
Lesson learned... mail order tunes are a crap shoot and may not get you to someone that can actually tune.
Don't even want to step a foot in the garage as the raw burnt fuel has permeated the packing in the mufflers... headache.
The build was great... no coolant or oil leaks, rings sealed, no valvetrain noise...
I guess I should just stay with SBC, BBC, AMC's
There is no one local that can tune it. I could pay to haul the truck 90 miles to the nearest tuner or or drive it lean that far and toast the engine. Towing it that far and paying for a tune it's going to be at least a grand. I'm tired of pissing away money on this engine/trans build (eight grand and counting). New o2 sensors, wideband, FP gauge, plugs and other stuff, $300 and a truck that still runs like junk and wanting to just toast it's self, not counting on the $200+ on the mail order tune. I'm just burning money away.
If I would have bought a Holley carburetor, intake and MSD controller... I could have done everything myself from jetting, power valves, accelerator pumps, a/p cams and had it running perfect. I'm old school, built a lot of engines and never needed any outside help for tuning. Sure I could buy the HP tuners for $$$$ then the learning curve would be like chinese water torture to a old guy like me. The 4.3 is going back in or I'm re-installing the stock camshaft, 24lb injectors and a factory tuned PCM.
Lesson learned... mail order tunes are a crap shoot and may not get you to someone that can actually tune.
Don't even want to step a foot in the garage as the raw burnt fuel has permeated the packing in the mufflers... headache.
The build was great... no coolant or oil leaks, rings sealed, no valvetrain noise...
I guess I should just stay with SBC, BBC, AMC's
There is absolutely no reason a tuner can't tweak Frost's tune so it idles and drives just like stock - that includes engine and converter/transmission tune.
But all of that said I have gone thru the same experience you have - have spent thousands of dollars in tuning but that was back in the day just after GM mfg the Delphi PCM and the only tuning pkg available was LSEdit. Times have changed since then nearly 20 years ago for my 1998 ProCharged Z28 Camaro.
Should be no reason at all that you shouldn't be able to find a good tuner in Charlotte and haul it back home and not have spent more than to $500 to $600 dollars. With a good tune your truck should idle and drive almost like stock as long as you account for the fact that you have a cam with an LSA of 112 and a higher stall converter than stock.
No offense, but I think you want to do everything yourself and/or know every detail so you can fix it yourself. One assumption is that you have expected is that you can get your truck to run after all of the modifications to it for a mail order tune ($200). It's not going to happen. At a $100 per hour it can take 3-4 hours to get it right. Its not cheap and we need to understand that it cost's to pay someone for their knowledge and experience and millions of dollars in shop equipment. Dynos arent cheap.
No offense to Frost either. One would think that since your build is so common that the tune would be cookie cutter - one size fits all. It's not that simple. You just need someone to tweak and fine tune his baseline work. It shouldn't take long.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 07-08-2018 at 10:02 AM.
07-08-2018, 01:06 PM
#33
I've finally realized the spot I'm in...
There is no one local that can tune it. I could pay to haul the truck 90 miles to the nearest tuner or or drive it lean that far and toast the engine. Towing it that far and paying for a tune it's going to be at least a grand. I'm tired of pissing away money on this engine/trans build (eight grand and counting). New o2 sensors, wideband, FP gauge, plugs and other stuff, $300 and a truck that still runs like junk and wanting to just toast it's self, not counting on the $200+ on the mail order tune. I'm just burning money away.
If I would have bought a Holley carburetor, intake and MSD controller... I could have done everything myself from jetting, power valves, accelerator pumps, a/p cams and had it running perfect. I'm old school, built a lot of engines and never needed any outside help for tuning. Sure I could buy the HP tuners for $$$$ then the learning curve would be like chinese water torture to a old guy like me. The 4.3 is going back in or I'm re-installing the stock camshaft, 24lb injectors and a factory tuned PCM.
Lesson learned... mail order tunes are a crap shoot and may not get you to someone that can actually tune.
Don't even want to step a foot in the garage as the raw burnt fuel has permeated the packing in the mufflers... headache.
The build was great... no coolant or oil leaks, rings sealed, no valvetrain noise...
I guess I should just stay with SBC, BBC, AMC's
There is no one local that can tune it. I could pay to haul the truck 90 miles to the nearest tuner or or drive it lean that far and toast the engine. Towing it that far and paying for a tune it's going to be at least a grand. I'm tired of pissing away money on this engine/trans build (eight grand and counting). New o2 sensors, wideband, FP gauge, plugs and other stuff, $300 and a truck that still runs like junk and wanting to just toast it's self, not counting on the $200+ on the mail order tune. I'm just burning money away.
If I would have bought a Holley carburetor, intake and MSD controller... I could have done everything myself from jetting, power valves, accelerator pumps, a/p cams and had it running perfect. I'm old school, built a lot of engines and never needed any outside help for tuning. Sure I could buy the HP tuners for $$$$ then the learning curve would be like chinese water torture to a old guy like me. The 4.3 is going back in or I'm re-installing the stock camshaft, 24lb injectors and a factory tuned PCM.
Lesson learned... mail order tunes are a crap shoot and may not get you to someone that can actually tune.
Don't even want to step a foot in the garage as the raw burnt fuel has permeated the packing in the mufflers... headache.
The build was great... no coolant or oil leaks, rings sealed, no valvetrain noise...
I guess I should just stay with SBC, BBC, AMC's
On the one hand I feel really good that I finally tamed my injected turbo LS and have made a brute of a powerhouse using nothing more than basically factory parts, but on the other hand I'm still very much learning and still asking questions. Where I live most people in the car culture are very much still stuck in the carbed SBC and BBC stuff. Nothing wrong with that. 2 of my hotrods are powered by flathead Fords with Holley 94 carbs so I know the appeal of simplicity. Most people around here though haven't taken the plunge down the rabbit hole to embrace the potential (and sometimes headache) that is an injected LS. With an LS, you can have your cake and eat it too, unlike with a carbed SBC or especially a BBC. You can make BBC power AND get decent/good mileage also. Add a power adder and the gap gets even wider.
And nothing against Frost but I think a mail order tune is exactly that. Kind of an educated guess without being able to collect data from a log and see exactly what needs changed where.
Just know that you aren't alone in your experience of frustration. Maybe take a few days away from the truck to refresh yourself on the project. I wish you were closer to central OK where I am, I'd try everything I know and have learned to try to get you going, and I think I could after having (mostly) tamed my turbo LQ4 swap.
Last edited by ElQueFør; 07-08-2018 at 01:24 PM.
07-09-2018, 11:59 AM
#34
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Going to give it another try. I've read finding a good tuner they are usually around three months backed logged, and if they don't have a waiting list they probably aren't that good. I e-mailed PCM of NC for info and an appointment time estimate.
I'm going to focus on bank 2 sensor 1's connection again. It's still showing "not supported" on the hand held scanner/code reader for some reason. It does shows the bank 1 sensor 1. Back probed that #2 o2 and it had voltage and ground with the key on but that's just two out of the four wires. I'll do a continuity test on the remaining wires from the PCM to the o2 connector.
I guess right now I'm going to throw more parts at it replacing the intake gaskets with a better gasket. The ones I used are from the Engine-Tech gasket kit. They looked fine but I didn't have a torque wrench that would read the lower in/lb specs during install so I used a 1/4" drive and guessestimated the 44/89 in/lb torque value.
With the intake off I'm going to double check the grounds from the harness to the back of the block. These were a pain in the *** to connect (by feel) but I'm sure I got them right as I took photos of the three ground wires before removing the harness. There is another harness ground behind the P/S pump I'll double check. With the intake off I may as well replace the camshaft sensor since it's hard to get to with the intake on. So the only thing left would be the fuel pressure regulator, MAP, MAF and crank sensors.
PCM of NC emailed me back (while posting this) about the dyno tune. They asked if I had the upgraded driveshaft as they typically don't do trucks if the driveshaft hasn't been upgraded. I asked about just a street tune to address my problems with the truck and the mail order tune.
I was correct on them being backed up three months and asked to be put on their waiting list.
If my trouble shooting doesn't help I have a few options:
Send the PCM back to frost but with no logging data I don't see his base tune changing much unless he takes a blind swing at it.
Pull the cam/injectors/pcm and go back to stock during the three month wait for the tune, then re-install.
Buy data logging programing and have someone do email tunes.
I'm going to focus on bank 2 sensor 1's connection again. It's still showing "not supported" on the hand held scanner/code reader for some reason. It does shows the bank 1 sensor 1. Back probed that #2 o2 and it had voltage and ground with the key on but that's just two out of the four wires. I'll do a continuity test on the remaining wires from the PCM to the o2 connector.
I guess right now I'm going to throw more parts at it replacing the intake gaskets with a better gasket. The ones I used are from the Engine-Tech gasket kit. They looked fine but I didn't have a torque wrench that would read the lower in/lb specs during install so I used a 1/4" drive and guessestimated the 44/89 in/lb torque value.
With the intake off I'm going to double check the grounds from the harness to the back of the block. These were a pain in the *** to connect (by feel) but I'm sure I got them right as I took photos of the three ground wires before removing the harness. There is another harness ground behind the P/S pump I'll double check. With the intake off I may as well replace the camshaft sensor since it's hard to get to with the intake on. So the only thing left would be the fuel pressure regulator, MAP, MAF and crank sensors.
PCM of NC emailed me back (while posting this) about the dyno tune. They asked if I had the upgraded driveshaft as they typically don't do trucks if the driveshaft hasn't been upgraded. I asked about just a street tune to address my problems with the truck and the mail order tune.
Originally Posted by PCM of NC
Sure, no problem. Steve is a good guy. We can street tune it for you no problem. We are currently scheduling October, we keep a waiting list. If that time frame is okay with you I will be glad to put you on the list and we can give you a call when we get closer.
If my trouble shooting doesn't help I have a few options:
Send the PCM back to frost but with no logging data I don't see his base tune changing much unless he takes a blind swing at it.
Pull the cam/injectors/pcm and go back to stock during the three month wait for the tune, then re-install.
Buy data logging programing and have someone do email tunes.
07-09-2018, 12:21 PM
#35
I've always just reused the intake manifold gaskets. I also never torque them just spin the bolts down with my Milwaukee cordless impact driver. Not an impact gun, but the driver like you put drywall screws on with. Never a problem.
Trying to pay it forward: I know you don't want to throw more money at this but you really don't have much choice. However you decide to go about it there's no way around that.
Here's an idea.... Buy an HPTuners interface so you can log data and then post it up so we can try to help you make it work. You can find them used with and without credits to maybe save a little money. Whatever you spend on one you ought to be able to get most if not all back from reselling it later. I can't speak for certain for others but I will definitely help you get it lined out that way. I bet some of the other guys on here with more experience than I (and no desire to sell you more crap you don't need) will also help.
You could resell the HPTuners interface afterwards or keep it, up to you. Just a thought man but you're going to be spending money either way so why not get the interface where you could log data for future troubleshooting?
If a person is going to have a fuel injected vehicle and also mix in even the slightest bit of performance goodies, you really need a way to log data even if you don't have the desire to tune it yourself. Without data you (and the tuner) are pissing in the dark.
Trying to pay it forward: I know you don't want to throw more money at this but you really don't have much choice. However you decide to go about it there's no way around that.
Here's an idea.... Buy an HPTuners interface so you can log data and then post it up so we can try to help you make it work. You can find them used with and without credits to maybe save a little money. Whatever you spend on one you ought to be able to get most if not all back from reselling it later. I can't speak for certain for others but I will definitely help you get it lined out that way. I bet some of the other guys on here with more experience than I (and no desire to sell you more crap you don't need) will also help.
You could resell the HPTuners interface afterwards or keep it, up to you. Just a thought man but you're going to be spending money either way so why not get the interface where you could log data for future troubleshooting?
If a person is going to have a fuel injected vehicle and also mix in even the slightest bit of performance goodies, you really need a way to log data even if you don't have the desire to tune it yourself. Without data you (and the tuner) are pissing in the dark.
Last edited by ElQueFør; 07-09-2018 at 12:27 PM.
07-09-2018, 12:32 PM
#36
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I've always just reused the intake manifold gaskets. I also never torque them just spin the bolts down with my Milwaukee cordless impact driver. Not an impact gun, but the driver like you put drywall screws on with. Never a problem.
Trying to pay it forward: I know you don't want to throw more money at this but you really don't have much choice. However you decide to go about it there's no way around that.
Here's an idea.... Buy an HPTuners interface so you can log data and then post it up so we can try to help you make it work. You can find them used with and without credits to maybe save a little money. Whatever you spend on one you ought to be able to get most if not all back from reselling it later. I can't speak for certain for others but I will definitely help you get it lined out that way. I bet some of the other guys on here with more experience than I (and no desire to sell you more crap you don't need) will also help.
You could resell the HPTuners interface afterwards or keep it, up to you. Just a thought man but you're going to be spending money either way so why not get the interface where you could log data for future troubleshooting?
If a person is going to have a fuel injected vehicle and also mix in even the slightest bit of performance goodies, you really need a way to log data even if you don't have the desire to tune it yourself. Without data you (and the tuner) are pissing in the dark.
Trying to pay it forward: I know you don't want to throw more money at this but you really don't have much choice. However you decide to go about it there's no way around that.
Here's an idea.... Buy an HPTuners interface so you can log data and then post it up so we can try to help you make it work. You can find them used with and without credits to maybe save a little money. Whatever you spend on one you ought to be able to get most if not all back from reselling it later. I can't speak for certain for others but I will definitely help you get it lined out that way. I bet some of the other guys on here with more experience than I (and no desire to sell you more crap you don't need) will also help.
You could resell the HPTuners interface afterwards or keep it, up to you. Just a thought man but you're going to be spending money either way so why not get the interface where you could log data for future troubleshooting?
If a person is going to have a fuel injected vehicle and also mix in even the slightest bit of performance goodies, you really need a way to log data even if you don't have the desire to tune it yourself. Without data you (and the tuner) are pissing in the dark.
07-09-2018, 12:46 PM
#37
Well they recently rolled out their new MPVI2 interface. I don't know a lot about it since I still have the original MPVI interface. I believe it does everything the older interface did but with the added functionality of some newer vehicles and bluetooth for a connection method. Looks like the USB cable is still an option also. But I went to their website and added the interface to the cart and 2 credits (you will need credits to unlock the PCM to modify it appropriately.) And it looks like it totals up to $399.97.
Another option is to purchase an older MPVI that is used. They show up in the classifieds.
What PCM# are you running?
Another option is to purchase an older MPVI that is used. They show up in the classifieds.
What PCM# are you running?
07-09-2018, 01:39 PM
#38
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Well they recently rolled out their new MPVI2 interface. I don't know a lot about it since I still have the original MPVI interface. I believe it does everything the older interface did but with the added functionality of some newer vehicles and bluetooth for a connection method. Looks like the USB cable is still an option also. But I went to their website and added the interface to the cart and 2 credits (you will need credits to unlock the PCM to modify it appropriately.) And it looks like it totals up to $399.97.
Another option is to purchase an older MPVI that is used. They show up in the classifieds.
What PCM# are you running?
Another option is to purchase an older MPVI that is used. They show up in the classifieds.
What PCM# are you running?
07-09-2018, 02:02 PM
#39
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Just saw where the new HP tuner doesn't have the data logging feature as of yet... then it will be a $249 option.
07-09-2018, 02:26 PM
#40
Good. I'm also running the 411 PCM in my turbo LQ4 setup. I'm most familiar with that one!
That video is kind of confusing to me but it looks like the upgrade to the "PRO" version is what will cost $249...... That will give you the ability to input a wideband AND do stand alone logging (black box logging)..... I THINK it should still do logging the old way with a laptop connected to the interface though..... You might contact HPTuners and ask them to clarify that. You'll want the PRO setup to make interfacing your wideband into the datastream as easy as possible.
That video is kind of confusing to me but it looks like the upgrade to the "PRO" version is what will cost $249...... That will give you the ability to input a wideband AND do stand alone logging (black box logging)..... I THINK it should still do logging the old way with a laptop connected to the interface though..... You might contact HPTuners and ask them to clarify that. You'll want the PRO setup to make interfacing your wideband into the datastream as easy as possible.