I'm at a loss... weird "stutter"...log file attached
Again, no codes, but when we hooked up HPTuners, it said it had an incomplete testing on the O2s and Evap system. O2s appeared to be working normally from what we could tell though.
Anyway, hoping someone can take a look at the attached log file and come up with a viable theory. My next step is to buy a single coil and just swap it around to each cylinder to see if I can clear it up that way.
Thanks in advance...
Shooting a temp gun at each exhaust pipe will tell you if it is either a bad plug, bad coil, or injector because the exhaust temp will be lower than the others. So if its firing and not getting fuel it will be cold or vice versa.
Shooting a temp gun at each exhaust pipe will tell you if it is either a bad plug, bad coil, or injector because the exhaust temp will be lower than the others. So if its firing and not getting fuel it will be cold or vice versa.
You can feel each injector as it opens and closes when idling with thumb and index finger. A cheap temp gun is your friend at Harbor Freight.
BTW - apply dielectric grease when you connect back together. Also check both female and male ends on the Delphi connector on each coil as well as the main connector that connects them all to the main harness with the ground that connects to backside of the head - especially the female side or the male side if one is slightly bent. Each wire is color coded for each coil as well as the ground. It's doubtful two are cross attached because of the length of each. That said my car idles pretty good even though a coil is crossed.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; Nov 11, 2018 at 04:23 PM.
Checked the evap, fuel injector, and coil connections, all seems pretty good...I'll have to pick up some dielectric grease and go back through it all just for good measure.
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https://www.hotrod.com/articles/0206...ur-alternator/
Don't know how this happened after my engine install - not by me. But my battery connection at the alt was arcing and had actually melted the insulation which I think might have contributed to my coils and injectors acting weird on idle. The nut was just was loose enough to where you could rotate the cable on the alt bolt. It is hard to reach or access so one can think it is tight if a socket swivel adapter was used when they thought it was tight, but was still loose.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; Nov 12, 2018 at 04:58 PM.
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https://www.hotrod.com/articles/0206...ur-alternator/
Don't know how this happened after my engine install - not by me. But my battery connection at the alt was arcing and had actually melted the insulation which I think might have contributed to my coils and injectors acting weird on idle. The nut was just was loose enough to where you could rotate the cable on the alt bolt. It is hard to reach or access so one can think it is tight if a socket swivel adapter was used when they thought it was tight, but was still loose.



