LS1 No Start
The initial tune worked OK and allowed me to drive around the block. Last year, when trying to start it (I start it every few months), it wouldn't start. With no time to work on it, I let it set for 6 months. I went to start it and it ran OK. The same thing just happened again, this time I am committed to getting the car on the road.
The crank sensor is working properly (tested the hall effect while rotating the engine), I have spark, I have fuel at the rail (~55 psi), and the injectors are opening/closing (noid light). Because of this, I think it may be a tuning issue.
The car was setup with a SD tune. It registers about 145 rpm on cranking. IAT and coolant temp are 75 degrees. The spark advance when cranking is 12.5 degrees
Any help or thoughts on where to start troubleshooting would be very helpful. I have been doing a lot of reading on tuning so I am familiar. I have also read the PCM and have TunerPro RT to make changes if necessary).
Last edited by toones; Jan 21, 2019 at 09:46 PM.
I've ran into issues multiple times with the LS where if it sits a long time, the injectors can get stuck. Have you tried spraying a little starting fluid in the TB to see if it tries to start?
You may have stuck injectors, I see this occasionally, old fuel and inactivity make this happen. You can cycle them with a tool or a power probe and usually get them to work again.
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I pulled a plug to verify spark (last time I check with a inline light). The plug sparked just fine.
Any other ideas...please!
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- Tried spraying starter fluid into the intake with the fuel pump relay disconnected Stumble, but no start
- Tried spraying starter fluid into the intake with the fuel pump relay connected. Stumble, but no start.
- With a noid light, I have verified that the injectors are getting power
- Pulling the plug, and cranking the engine, I can see spark across the plug gap
- Tested the crankshaft position sensor and it is giving the proper signal
- Tapped on each injector with a hammer to unstick it if it is stuck (I have actually had this work on another car)
- Tried a different PCM (the original from the car swapped out years ago)
- Checked timing while cranking and it is 12.5 degrees
- Swapped out ignition relays
- The railmounted FP gauge shows 55 PSI
- Disconnected the FP relay and cranked. The FP pressure drops.
- IAT and coolant temperature read properly using a scantool hooked up through the OBDII port
- If it was an ignition relay, there would be no spark
- If it was a stuck injector, it would run on ether
- If it was the PCM, there would be no spark or injector signal
- If it was flooded, it should have started after sitting overnight and attempting with the FP relay disconnected and a shot of starting fluid.
- Ignition timing is what is expected when cold starting (12.5 degrees)
- The drivetrain was rebuilt less than 200 miles ago so it should not be a worn cam or timing chain issue
Help is still badly needed!
Because I don't run it long enough to burn off any initial fuel on the plug tip and;
the plugs were wet and;
because the car runs rich and;
last time this happened it corrected itself (after sitting long enough for the fuel to evaporate from the plug tip)
I think the plugs are fuel fouled and letting them sit overnight was not long enough for them to dry out. I pulled seven of the eight plugs and have them baking at 350 degrees for 30 minutes. After they cool off, I will put them back in and report back.
Before your last post, I was thinking either a weak or mis-timed spark. If the dried spark plugs don't solve it, I would swap in another crank sensor and carefully check its connector and wiring.
Thank you all!
You are also welcome to post a tune here, although the vast majority of members here can only examine HP Tuners or EFI Live files.











