typicaly if the check engine light is flashing that’s means there is a major ish issue. I’ve never had it flash when a vehicle wasn’t running tho.

so to recap it won’t start. Correct?

Anytime ive ran into a no spark issue and have a good power and ground to the crank sensor it’s ended up being a bad or not connected ground wire.

 

can I run grounds for my battery straight to my heads just to see if that’s the problem? Or does it have to be from my harness ?

 

I'm not sure how much help l will be lm half *** through my harness. But typically all of the black wires are ground wires that should be grounded to the engine then run your battery ground to the block. Remember it will only run for a few seconds cause of vats.

Stampede

 

does the pcm send ground pulses for power or can I just ground it from battery just to see ? I put a volt meter on my coil pack and black wire and I had ground?

 

The pcm makes the ground, take a look at the injectors they have a pink wire 12 volts the other wire goes to the pcm for the completed circuit.

 

dang do you happen to know what grounds and where they go ?

 

yes you need a tuner to turn the vats off. But typically even with it on it should at least fire up then die.

Its not not starting at all correct?

 

correct , but I don’t have a ground on the back of the heads , I have the ground by the starter on the block ( thinking about putting it on front passenger head) I have a ground on the rear of the block under my coolant crossover tube (thinking about moving it to rear of driver head ) then I have my battery ground going under alternator on engine block( leaving that there) I have 3 grounds in my harness from my lt1 swap stand-alone diy harness. Also wondering if my pcm has to be grounded also? Read something on a form that says some have to be grounded also

 

it does turn over and has power to coils and injectors tho. About to move the grounds around and then if that don’t work get get a new crank sensor and hopefully it will work then. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks for you help man! And others than have responded. Wouldn’t have gotten this far if it wasn’t for ls1tech

 

moved grounds and changed crank position sensor , smells like it gets fuel but no spark

 

actually still has no injector pulse just checked

 

I really feel like it’s a ground wire still. I would check continuity of all the ground wires. When I had a similar issue it ended up being a ground that wasn’t hook back up that came out of the harness and was supposed to be grounded in the same place as the battery gets ground by the motor mount

 

okay it’s only getting 9-10 bolts to coils while cranking . Is that my problem ?

 

hooked up 12 bolts with a 10guage wire directly from my battery to my 2 coil wires and ign pcm and it says it has 10 volts now , I’m charging up my battery to see what happens next check resistance on ground wires from coil and it’s at 0 and 1

 

you need to recheck the wire that read 1 when you checked for continuity. I would check that wire a couple times just to make sure you are getting a correct reading. If it is indeed 1 then there is no continuity for that wire. Also make sure that you are testing the same wire and not accidentally try to see the continuity of two different wires.

I know I’ve mentioned this multiple times but my issue I had was basically identical to yours. A ground that goes down the front drivers side of the engine kinda along side the part of the harness that goes down and around to the starter was not hooked up. That ground come from the back passenger side of the engine from the the other grounds back the and I believe it’s for the coils. Once that was hooked back up it fired right up.

Good luck