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Down on power with H/C/I

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Old Jul 26, 2019 | 10:46 AM
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Default Down on power with H/C/I

Not sure if this is the right place but here it is. I feel like my car is putting out low power with the mods it has right now even with it being on a mustang dyno. It’s a m6 98 Trans Am. My tuner said she doesnt like much timing due to the load and the low gearing(3.23) doesnt help it get up on rpms on the upper gears...so could gears be the only culprit here?


Made 346hp at 5871 with these mods.

Torquer V2 232/234 .600/.600 114 LSA cam
MTI Carbon fiber lid
k&n filter
Stock maf
Accordion bellow
FAST 92mm Intake Manifold
FAST 92mm Big Mouth LT throttle body
PRC 2.5 5.3L 60cc heads
7.400 pushrods
LS7 lifters
Dual valve springs
Ported LS6 oil pump
LS2 timing chain
NGK TR55 spark plugs
MSD 8.5 wires
Racetronix fuel pump 255
Bosch O2 sensors
FIC 80lbs fuel injectors 850
Flowtech longtube headers
3” Pacesetter Off-road Y-pipe
Dynomax bullitt
Cut out before the axle
40 series muffler FlowMaster muffler

Tremec T56 Magnum (2.66/1.78/1.30/1.00/.80/.63)
RAM HD clutch
HAWKS billet Short throw shifter
RAM billet steel flywheel
3.23 gears


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Old Jul 26, 2019 | 11:39 AM
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Something is off. That cam and intake should make peak power at 6300-6500, not 5800.

Take a pic of that pacesetter Y. If it is what I think it is, that is a big part of the problem
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Old Jul 26, 2019 | 02:29 PM
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Also, cutout open or closed?
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Old Jul 26, 2019 | 02:54 PM
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Ill have to post the underside tomorrow when I put it up on a lift to get a clear picture but here is the graph if this provides better data. Cut out was closed, I was told it wouldn’t make a difference, which I could was odd
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Old Jul 27, 2019 | 08:42 PM
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Here is the pic of the y pipe. Exhaust system is pretty rusty




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Old Jul 27, 2019 | 09:03 PM
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Ok your dyno operator lifted early that is the problem. Look at the power curve. It was still going up.

I would also advise you to look into a flowmaster merge. And either get a refund from your dyno operator / tuner or have them pull it to 6800 rpm.
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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 12:27 PM
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Is this her first time tuning? Why did she stop? Your power is clearly climbing...

Doesn't make sense. Did the tuner think there was something wrong?
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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 01:00 PM
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You might need a new tuner...
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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 01:13 PM
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I would find a different tuner for sure.

- H/C/I/E and they only spin it to 5800 rpms...

- I also found this to be insanely odd that she said....
"My tuner said she doesnt like much timing due to the load and the low gearing(3.23)"

- Cutout closed..... also some more silliness.

That y pipe merger is also
Get it looking something like this. Here is mine and right after the merger I have a 4in. electric cutout.
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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
I would find a different tuner for sure.

- H/C/I/E and they only spin it to 5800 rpms...

- I also found this to be insanely odd that she said....
"My tuner said she doesnt like much timing due to the load and the low gearing(3.23)"

- Cutout closed..... also some more silliness.

That y pipe merger is also
Get it looking something like this. Here is mine and right after the merger I have a 4in. electric cutout.
we used a merg like this about 8 years ago and picked up about 30 tq.
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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 05:39 PM
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yeah it was the only time that it got tuned. This was in texas, I'll have to look for a new tuner out in virginia now. Also, This gives me an excuse to do a true dual setup over the axle. I had this exhaust for over 10 years now when I was a teen, so my choices weren't wise back then.

Spin to 6300-6800 rpm huh? would having my tuner only bringing it up to 5800 explain why driveability is good? He knew there was plenty of power left on the table but advised me to change my gears first.
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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 06:03 PM
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Do you normally cruise at 5800? Sarcasm aside....it doesn't matter if you rev it to 6k or 7k, drivability is about idle and part throttle not max revs.
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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 07:59 PM
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On a LS the runners on the intake will generally give you peak power at 6300 unless you do something really off the wall. If you make peak at 6300, you likely will want to shift in the 6800-7200 range.

I would stall before gear. 3.23 gear usually means auto
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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
On a LS the runners on the intake will generally give you peak power at 6300 unless you do something really off the wall. If you make peak at 6300, you likely will want to shift in the 6800-7200 range.

I would stall before gear. 3.23 gear usually means auto
Copy, sorry forgot to mention it’s a rear end from an auto car with that gear
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by redls1T/A
...Spin to 6300-6800 rpm huh? would having my tuner only bringing it up to 5800 explain why driveability is good?...
WOT tuning vs Driveabiltiy tuning are two different things.

It sucks - but I assume this is your first experience on a custom built setup/going to a dyno tuner. Which is okay, most all of us have small little issues along the way. Now you know.

There are so many "dyno tuners" out there, that have absolutely no desire to tune someone else's car as well as the owner would want to tune his/her own car. When going to the dyno, the worst case scenario (and the most common one) is at the very least having your WOT area tuned, with a dyno sheet having your power number/curve. The best case scenario, is a tuner that actually bothered to tune most important parts of your ECM, as well as driveability.

Your tuner didn't even do the worst case scenario for you... refund refund. It's too bad you're not there any more, I'd be hollering for a proper tune if you already dished out the cash. (Unfortunately, this tuner doesn't seem like he knows enough to even do that anyway)

it is what it is - and in this case, it's a learning experience.
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Old Jul 30, 2019 | 12:44 PM
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You really should post who did the tune so others can be aware.
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Old Aug 1, 2019 | 03:46 PM
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In my opinion I think your valves are staying open and not making any compression. 7.400 is a standard stock size pushrod you probably need like a 7.325 or 7.350 but you would need to measure to find out.
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Old Aug 2, 2019 | 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by SSANIMAL
In my opinion I think your valves are staying open and not making any compression.
Ok, How would you not know that the valves were staying open and you had no compression?
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Old Aug 2, 2019 | 01:50 PM
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Thanks for the inputs. I follow a lot of the proven builds here and got ideas for my own, and yes this is my first built car. I would’ve thought at the very least 400whp but I’ll check the pushrods and maybe even change a couple things with my setup before taking it for a retune local.
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