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Anyone go from SD back to MAF tune?

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Old 02-13-2020, 10:02 AM
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the idle timing is all over the place, it jumps from about 2.5 to 18, but ill admit, i reduced it to try to get the cool idle sound. the car idles ok, its more the 1000-2000 rpm area that it has trouble and i think you hit it with the transient stuff.
I bought this car already done and tuned and its my first e38 so i havent had a lot of experience yet. ive only tweaked a few things buit I think the right answer for me is to grab a few of your videos and just start playing with things when i have time.
Really appreciate the info, Greg, ill be reading that post probably 10 more times in the next few days.
Old 02-13-2020, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by turbolx
I have an LS3/7 MAF element in a 3.5" tube on my TT C6. I only hit about 10,600Hz at an actual airflow around 70#/min (~700 flywheel HP gross), so you'll have plenty of headroom. Just remember that the IAT has a completely different transfer function.
Originally Posted by turbolx
Please bring me the data showing how much pressure drop you see across the new slot style (LS3/7/9) MAF element in a large (3.5"+ diameter) tube. I bet it's a lot less than you think and the air filter itself is a bigger restriction.

MAF's are wonderful steady state devices that are already compensated for temperature and pressure. If the system is already structured to use one, I can't imagine wanting to throw that away. The biggest challenge with them is transient tuning (manifold filling, strong pulsations), where GM already gave you a good fallback option on the SD calculation. I can't tell you how many times we wished for a MAF during development when I was calibrating Ford Ecoboost systems (that are SD only) because we couldn't really be sure what the actual airflow was.
Originally Posted by turbolx
Boost pressure is irrelevant when talking about Mass Air Flow.

But, for reference, I was talking about ~7psi on top of a stock LS3 engine (APS twin turbo kit) making around 600RWHP on e10 91 octane.
Originally Posted by turbolx
"HE" is me.

Yes, I have single port internal wastegates on the GT3076r turbos in that kit. With the snow and cold, I haven't been especially motivated to install the new Sirhc Labs boost controller and go back to the dyno for testing to prove we can hold the desired pressure. This is a whole other story than MAF vs SD though.
This goes back to low power, I had the same kit on my C6 with pretty much the exact same GT3076 upgrade and upgraded single port actuators. MAF was pegged on anything more then 13-14 PSI I think it was and switching to an SD tune was free and easy instead of rigging up a larger pipe or scaling, etc... Ended up running the kit up to 20+ lbs then selling it because it kept falling off up top, I even tried larger AR turbine housings, just wasn't enough turbo for me. I deal with MAF's all the time on other peoples cars and upgrade tube size for guys that want to keep the maf 4" , 4.5" etc. However on big power setups they don't run air filters so those aren't a restriction either. I haven't seem a MAF setup that will easily handle 20-40+ PSI from a 200+ lb/min turbo (or two of them).


Originally Posted by turbolx
I would consider single port gates the "normal" for most turbo applications, as I've used them more than anything else.
Again back to low power setups which is where single port wastegates are normally used on small T25/T3 internal gate turbos. Most everyone else with T4 or T6 turbos uses external gates with dual ports, with most big power setups are using 66mm gates with electronic controllers except where limited by class rules.
Old 02-13-2020, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by TrendSetter
the idle timing is all over the place, it jumps from about 2.5 to 18, but ill admit, i reduced it to try to get the cool idle sound. the car idles ok, its more the 1000-2000 rpm area that it has trouble and i think you hit it with the transient stuff.
I bought this car already done and tuned and its my first e38 so i havent had a lot of experience yet. ive only tweaked a few things buit I think the right answer for me is to grab a few of your videos and just start playing with things when i have time.
Really appreciate the info, Greg, ill be reading that post probably 10 more times in the next few days.
Have you tried messing with real time control (DVT for Efi Live)? Should let you dial in idle timing pretty quick and can monitor map for best vacuum.

Last edited by ddnspider; 02-13-2020 at 10:44 AM.
Old 02-13-2020, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Have you tried messing with real time control (DVT for Efi Live)? Should let you dial in idle time pretty quick and can monitor map for best vacuum.
I have not, but thats a good idea. I am going after some weird goals which is part of my self inflicted problem. i want the car to idle really loud and rough and all that coolness but get good fuel economy and drivability. i think its possible its just something i need to work through and i simply havent put enough time into it yet.
this maf/sd stuff sounds like its worth a try though.
Old 02-13-2020, 10:55 AM
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@turbolx "I just want to make smokier tires" Sounds like what I'm trying to accomplish.
Old 02-13-2020, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by TrendSetter
I have not, but thats a good idea. I am going after some weird goals which is part of my self inflicted problem. i want the car to idle really loud and rough and all that coolness but get good fuel economy and drivability. i think its possible its just something i need to work through and i simply havent put enough time into it yet.
this maf/sd stuff sounds like its worth a try though.
This is where a mix of Alpha-N and Speed Density is fun.
Old 02-13-2020, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
@turbolx "I just want to make smokier tires" Sounds like what I'm trying to accomplish.
Greg is a funny guy. one of the episodes from a few years ago you can hear the ice in his bourbon bouncing around the whole time hes talking. I think we would get along in real life.
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by TrendSetter
Greg is a funny guy. one of the episodes from a few years ago you can hear the ice in his bourbon bouncing around the whole time hes talking. I think we would get along in real life.
He and joecar are the 2 key people who helped me understand how to tune Gen 3 stuff.....and realize how many tuners out there are really tooners
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by aaronc7
That's good to hear, ambient pressure here is 87 kPa, my fear is I will run out when I go back to sea level; just trying to future-proof the setup.
I think you're forgetting the basics of turbocharger operation. The wastegate actuator is controlled by DELIVERED pressure, which would theoretically be the same at both sea level and altitude. The biggest difference is that more compressor shaft speed is required to generate that final delivered pressure/flow when starting with a lower barometric pressure. Moving from altitude down will actually make things easier on the turbo.

Originally Posted by TrendSetter
the idle timing is all over the place, it jumps from about 2.5 to 18, but ill admit, i reduced it to try to get the cool idle sound. the car idles ok, its more the 1000-2000 rpm area that it has trouble and i think you hit it with the transient stuff.
I bought this car already done and tuned and its my first e38 so i havent had a lot of experience yet. ive only tweaked a few things buit I think the right answer for me is to grab a few of your videos and just start playing with things when i have time.
Really appreciate the info, Greg, ill be reading that post probably 10 more times in the next few days.
What you really want is VVT. In the meantime, stick with the fundamentals like we show in the videos. Getting those right in the order in which we present them will go a long way toward eliminating other issues. Thanks!

Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
This goes back to low power, I had the same kit on my C6 with pretty much the exact same GT3076 upgrade and upgraded single port actuators. MAF was pegged on anything more then 13-14 PSI I think it was and switching to an SD tune was free and easy instead of rigging up a larger pipe or scaling, etc...
If you were using the LS2 based kit intended for the Delphi MAF housing, I am not the least bit surprised. I fabricated my MAF housing with a section of 3.5" stainless and a MAF saddle for the LS3 element, which has far less restriction. As an added bonus, the LS3 element is also less sensitive to reversion, yielded a far more accurate reading at idle.
Ended up running the kit up to 20+ lbs then selling it because it kept falling off up top, I even tried larger AR turbine housings, just wasn't enough turbo for me.
To be fair, the APS kit was never intended to make four-digit power. It's a kit designed for street cars, with incredible durability at a reasonable power level.
However on big power setups they don't run air filters so those aren't a restriction either. I haven't seem a MAF setup that will easily handle 20-40+ PSI from a 200+ lb/min turbo (or two of them).
"Low Power" is relative, I guess. To be fair, anyone making 2000hp in a class specific racecar has to acknowledge some compromises versus something that is more of a street car. The context of this dicsussion was for street driven vehicles where drive quality, idle quality, fuel control, and good manners (as often judged by the passenger's tolerance for disturbances in the car you insisted upon driving on date night) are sometimes more important than the final power number. Don't even get me started on emissions and fuel economy calibration.
Old 02-13-2020, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by turbolx
If you were using the LS2 based kit intended for the Delphi MAF housing, I am not the least bit surprised. I fabricated my MAF housing with a section of 3.5" stainless and a MAF saddle for the LS3 element, which has far less restriction. As an added bonus, the LS3 element is also less sensitive to reversion, yielded a far more accurate reading at idle.

To be fair, the APS kit was never intended to make four-digit power. It's a kit designed for street cars, with incredible durability at a reasonable power level.

"Low Power" is relative, I guess. To be fair, anyone making 2000hp in a class specific racecar has to acknowledge some compromises versus something that is more of a street car. The context of this dicsussion was for street driven vehicles where drive quality, idle quality, fuel control, and good manners (as often judged by the passenger's tolerance for disturbances in the car you insisted upon driving on date night) are sometimes more important than the final power number. Don't even get me started on emissions and fuel economy calibration.
I'm well aware I can make it work if I want to, I used an LS3 MAF on a 4" pipe for an F1 procharger setup on 20+PSI that worked fine, as well as many others. I just personally prefer a VE table, one less sensor to look at, quick and easy to adjust, translates well to others that use standalone, since most people head towards standalone as they make more and more power they may as well get familiar with it. You don't see many stock ECU's over 1200hp, if nothing else the safeties and centralized logging afforded by the upgrade are priceless. Emissions is a null factor in my builds, but fuel economy is actually great for the setup, easily get 20+MPG cruising on E85. If a client wants to retain the MAF then I'll do what they wish, but on my personal cars, race cars, etc, the MAF hits the parts pile and my bride never even noticed
Old 02-13-2020, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by turbolx
I think you're forgetting the basics of turbocharger operation. The wastegate actuator is controlled by DELIVERED pressure, which would theoretically be the same at both sea level and altitude. The biggest difference is that more compressor shaft speed is required to generate that final delivered pressure/flow when starting with a lower barometric pressure. Moving from altitude down will actually make things easier on the turbo.
Apologies if I glossed over my setup. It's a C5Z Corvette with a centrifugal blower. I think it will flow around 15 percent more air at sea level. A rough hack like looking at the LS3 MAF curve makes it like I may be OK, maybe hitting around 86lb/min actual around 11500hz.

I was also looking at the data supplied with the Lingenfelter 100mm MAF housing which showed it hitting around 70 lb)min at 10500 hz in a 4" housing which led me to believe I wouldn't make it on the 3.5 too. edit: I see now that LPE MAF doesn't even use the same style MAF, so that isn't relevant at all. So it's looking like I should be good to go with a 3.5" diameter pipe and may actually be the perfect size for my application.

Last edited by aaronc7; 02-13-2020 at 05:19 PM.
Old 02-23-2020, 08:26 PM
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Well, I'll just close the loop on this.

Tried it out, first issue was that even after getting fuel dialed in, the SD tune just drove a lot smoother. Quite possible if I had kept at it, I could have improved it, but thinking back, I don't think my car drove as smooth as it does now, back when I was NA and still had a MAF etc. Maybe due to the cam, idk.

Other issue was I hit 12000hz at around 6300 rpm on a 6500 rpm car. So that was actually alright, but I live at 4300', so the moment I go back down to sea level I would be getting into trouble.

Combo of those 2 things I just went back to SD and will be staying here. Was a fun experiment for me nonetheless.

This MAF housing I got beautiful and amazing quality, but looks like I'll be selling it. My MAF signal is way smoother on this thing than it ever was on the stock C5Z MAF pretty sure too, I guess the straightener works. These guys make the housings if any size if you guys are interested.

Anyone go from SD back to MAF tune?-ovegw1hl.jpg
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Anyone go from SD back to MAF tune?-5z60lc8l.jpg
Anyone go from SD back to MAF tune?-ejvbjazl.jpg
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Old 02-24-2020, 06:05 AM
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Nice to see you were able to try it and experiment. I'm doing that with turbos right now. Fun to try stuff out and see the impact.
Old 02-24-2020, 09:29 AM
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A-A-Ron, that's a really nice looking MAF!! It's a shame it didn't work out, but was a valiant effort.
Old 02-24-2020, 09:47 AM
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You turbo guys who are doing this, are you running the MAF pre turbo or in the charge piping (blow-thru)? I wonder if that has an impact on overall performance as well.

Yeah, the MAF housing turned out to be amazing. Thought about keeping it, but I ended up just cutting up my stock pipe and going back to the regular "GM IAT". About $150 total for housing, sensor and harness/connector.

I'm going to be selling it if anyone is interested.
Old 02-24-2020, 05:01 PM
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I always have it in a blow through config.
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Old 02-25-2020, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
I always have it in a blow through config.
Ya pretty much every setup I've done or seen is the same if they keep the MAF.

Originally Posted by aaronc7
You turbo guys who are doing this, are you running the MAF pre turbo or in the charge piping (blow-thru)? I wonder if that has an impact on overall performance as well.

Yeah, the MAF housing turned out to be amazing. Thought about keeping it, but I ended up just cutting up my stock pipe and going back to the regular "GM IAT". About $150 total for housing, sensor and harness/connector.

I'm going to be selling it if anyone is interested.
In my instance I don't have any pre turbo piping, and only a very short section of 90 degree 3" pipe from turbo outlet to throttle body that also has a BOV on it,so pretty much worst case scenario for a MAF setup.

Glad you got the SD sorted out!
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