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What about that stall converter?
These can eat up the power too.
We can't tell how efficient/inefficient it is.
True but he is down more than just the stalled auto.
OP, another cheap diagnostic test -- check header primary temps. Or at least hit them all with a water spray. Make sure all eight holes are working. Often the misfire tables are disabled with cams. So you can have a dead cylinder without the Ecu reporting it
True but he is down more than just the stalled auto.
OP, another cheap diagnostic test -- check header primary temps. Or at least hit them all with a water spray. Make sure all eight holes are working. Often the misfire tables are disabled with cams. So you can have a dead cylinder without the Ecu reporting it
It would at light throttle but it can be hard to distinguish from regular cam bucking, which also sucks to drive at light throttle. Under full load the motor will balance itself out even with a dead hole or two. Just way down on power.
Idk if you did flex fuel but I have seen two dead coils from the ff sensor in the past three weeks.
Another thing I'm running into, is my car likes to go on auto-pilot occasionally. It doesn't happen as often as it used to before it was tuned but once in awhile it will literally drive itself. Here are two videos of what I mean showing it accelerating by itself no foot on the pedal. The second video even shows that the throttle is at 0% throttle according to the TPS sensor (which was also recently replaced before the tune in effort to remedy the issue)
I have a Speed Engineering 92MM throttle body which looks to be a rebranded Ebay unit. Do you think this is my problem or is there more tuning that needs to be done?
When moving at speed as your second video shows, with no throttle input, what happens if you go to neutral? Try it and see if the engine shoots up in rpm. Thats really dangerous man!
When moving at speed as your second video shows, with no throttle input, what happens if you go to neutral? Try it and see if the engine shoots up in rpm. Thats really dangerous man!
I'll have to check when I can get back to it. Its having some body pieces repainted because I took some grass with it a few weeks back. And yeah it is dangerous you pretty much have to ride the brakes.
Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
Vacuum leak or way too much cracker/follower. Which by the way, vacuum leaks make you go lean when running a maf
What is weird is it doesnt always do this. It was always doing it before it was tuned and after that for the most part it stopped. Now it seems only to do it if it gets cooler outside, like between the 60's and 70's and even then its still fairly rare but it happens.
What's a good way to check for a vaccum leak and also what is cracker/follower ?
Cracker and follower are air adders. So your idle may use for example 10 g/sec air. While coasting, the Ecu adds additional air to prevent stalling and to make sure your brake booster is good and charged. If your cracker is too aggressive you can get cruise control like you are getting. It can be tuned or fully deactivate. I prefer to leave it enabled. Some don't.
Depends on you. If you want immediate results you need to take it in. If you are willing to live with it for a bit while you learn, then long term
Having hpt makes sense.
While I was learning I had the software and I was taking it to NicD even though I had the program.
Depends on you. If you want immediate results you need to take it in. If you are willing to live with it for a bit while you learn, then long term
Having hpt makes sense.
While I was learning I had the software and I was taking it to NicD even though I had the program.
I see. Should my tuner beable to provide me a copy of my tune so I can look into it for any possible issues? Also given the idle situation happens sporadically, and fairly rarely and sometimes even corrects itself while driving (usually it will correct if I give it alot of throttle), is this likely to be a tuning issue?
I see. Should my tuner beable to provide me a copy of my tune so I can look into it for any possible issues? Also given the idle situation happens sporadically, and fairly rarely and sometimes even corrects itself while driving (usually it will correct if I give it alot of throttle), is this likely to be a tuning issue?
Youd be able to plug in and download the tune yourself. Yes, it is very likely in the tune.
What kind of rear end are you running?
Is it a unfriendly dyno?
My MWC 9inch ate up 50rwhp apparently.
I have a similar combo in my 2000 Trans Am.
LS3, stock LS3 injectors, Truck Flow cam- 278/286 duration, 625 in./.625 in. lift, 113, FTI 3600 stall, PerformaBuilt 4L60-E, NW 92mm, SE 1 7/8 LT, SE 3in duel exhaust, BUT mine has the Trick Flow heads and a MWC 9in rear end and put down 452rwhp. The previous owner said it made 500rwhp with the 10bolt install when Pat G tuned it. I wanted to know how much power my car made, so I dynoed it on a different dyno after the 9in was installed and it put 452rwhp.
Just things to think about and compare.
The tuner is a vendor here. I don't exactly have cash to throw away at tuners just because they aren't into it.
then you don't hardly have the money to build another motor because the last one blew up due to a lousy tune, believe me there's a lot of bad tunes out there
I ended up buying a HP-Tuners so I can look over the tune and also datalog it. It should be arriving sometime late this week.
Originally Posted by 383z
What kind of rear end are you running?
Is it a unfriendly dyno?
My MWC 9inch ate up 50rwhp apparently.
I have a similar combo in my 2000 Trans Am.
LS3, stock LS3 injectors, Truck Flow cam- 278/286 duration, 625 in./.625 in. lift, 113, FTI 3600 stall, PerformaBuilt 4L60-E, NW 92mm, SE 1 7/8 LT, SE 3in duel exhaust, BUT mine has the Trick Flow heads and a MWC 9in rear end and put down 452rwhp. The previous owner said it made 500rwhp with the 10bolt install when Pat G tuned it. I wanted to know how much power my car made, so I dynoed it on a different dyno after the 9in was installed and it put 452rwhp.
Just things to think about and compare.
Its still running the stock 10 bolt for now with 3.23 gears.
Originally Posted by cmysix
then you don't hardly have the money to build another motor because the last one blew up due to a lousy tune, believe me there's a lot of bad tunes out there
Yes true. I just feel that the tuner (especially given its a reputable one) should be willing to make right if its a tuning issue.
I'm going back May 12th. In the mean time I'm having the Racetronix Fuel Pump, 104mm LID and 100mm MAF installed.
I'm also going to check for vacuum leaks.
I spoke to my tuner about the auto-pilot issue, I personally believe its a tuning issue given it does not always happen and it seems only to happen when the weather is fairly cool outside... my tuner believes it isn't the tune but the car, also believes the downshift issue is the car as well. (it sometimes will not downshift from 4th to 3rd or 2nd at WOT, and it almost never downshifts when climbing hills or accelerating, just lugs 4th)
Finally recieved my HP-Tuners but I'm not so sure this is the right application. Is this what I should have received? I called Texas-Speed up over the phone and ordered a HP-Tuners but this device looks like it needs bluetooth pairing with an android rather than a cable hookup to a laptop. I havent opened it because if I do I cant return it if its wrong. I dont mind using Android so long as it retains the same functionality.
Speed Engineering Headers, Hi Flo Cats, Speed Engineering True Duals
Choke Points:
Stock F-Body Fuel Pump
Stock F-Body MAF
76mm FTP LID
The shop felt my stock fuel pump (aprox 4 years old as is not the original factory pump but a replacement) was good enough to handle 500 whp so they recommended against installing my Racetronix unit. The shop was also unable to use the 100mm MAF I provided them because they needed a conversion harness and of course without the MAF, my 98 MM lid was also not installed.
During the tune we monitored fuel pressure, it remained between 61 and 62 PSI. The injector duty cycle was 'okay' per the tuner. He stated that it was running too lean at the top end and he was afraid of pushing it further.
It drives decent but my 6th Gen still feels faster and that kind of disappoints me given how much I invested in the swap. I was certain a cammed LS3 would put me close to the 500 WHP range
Finally recieved my HP-Tuners but I'm not so sure this is the right application. Is this what I should have received? I called Texas-Speed up over the phone and ordered a HP-Tuners but this device looks like it needs bluetooth pairing with an android rather than a cable hookup to a laptop. I havent opened it because if I do I cant return it if its wrong. I dont mind using Android so long as it retains the same functionality.
it should have a usb-c cable in the box that you use to connect to a laptop
