Ok....well on any semi accurate dyno. We've seen it on 4 different ones and they were all close.

 

Auto pilot could be 50/50 car or tune. Could be a hole too big in the TB or a vacuum leak.

Trans downshift issue is almost guaranteed to be tuning if you can make a WOT pull up through the gears.

 

Sure man, I could put a Toyota Corolla up on your dynos and make 500 wheel.

 

Sweet.....would your corolla back it up by running 10.7 @ 129 @ 417 whp like my own car or 10.5@131 like phils bolt on c6 or 11.5 @120 like phils fatgen 1le?

Be cool if it could but i doubt it would

Because in the end idgf what the dyno says. It's just a number people use as a comparison. What really matters is how the car accelerates.

 

Just stumbled across this thread. I tuned the car, its down on power because the stock maf and air-lid are choking it off ( map sensor reading low WOT) and it was going lean. It was going lean in the upper rpm no matter how much fuel you added. The car was supposed to have upgraded pump and hot wire kit but it did not. The car also had several really thin vacuum caps on the intake that could be potential leaks in the very near future. You can have fuel pressure and not volume, we had a trans am a few months ago that showed 58 psi but didnt have hardly any volume coming out. It had a bad bucket assembly. For sure with bigger air intake tube, maf and lid (and fuel) it will make more power.
We already made 2 different appoints with the OP, one to check the cruise control and shifting issue and one for a re-tune for the bigger maf and lid. I will gladly adjust the tune if its an tuning issue but the OP didnt show up for either appointment. We stand behind our work and will still fix it but we have to have the car or can fix it through email if the OP has hpt now.

 

I'm a newbie just trying to gain an understanding. But if your not getting enough air in. How is it lean no matter how much fuel you add? Sounds to me like the MAF tables are wrong?

 

The inlet is restricting the the maximum power but even with it not making all the power it potential could it is still running out of fuel on top. If its 5% lean and you add 15% fuel and your still 5% lean then there is a fuel delivery problem most likely.

 

Running out of injector or fuel pump, most likely. What's the IDC?

 

I'm out of state unfortunately I havent had the opportunity to take it back. (Had to travel to Atlanta twice) I probably wont be back in TX until the end of May. Its probably going to be into June before I'm able to get it tuned unfortunately.




I also intend to have the fuel pump upgraded before returning to have it tuned as well. I should have called to reschedule the appointment. All the dyno info & peak power RPM is still in the car and I'm about 1,000 miles away from it currently.

Should the stock LS3 injectors be enough for my setup or should I upgrade them as well?

 

Should have made one of the trips to Atlanta in the car and took it to vengeance racing

 

unfortunately I can't take it too far in summer weather, it overheats on the highway with the A/C on. I thought my trans cooler was impeding airflow but I rectified that and its still happening. I think something is up with my radiator which is another thing I need to address but unrelated to the swap. It was happening before the LS3 went in and I assumed the LS1 had a head gasket leak.

Its at another shop right now fixing some body damage I did by accidentally going into some grass.. the grass was hiding a large drop and I dipped in and scuffed the nose pretty bad. They're also testing the radiator while its it's there. If it's a bad radiator I'm probably going to go with a BeCool unit.

 

DeWitts

 

I thought an auto 6.2, with an ls3 cam in it, no vvt/dod with bolt ons will make close to 400 rwhp?

 

Can the tuner lock the converter on the dyno?

If it were me id Make a few passes, see what it 60's, what MPH it traps, and how much MPH increases after the 1/8th. Talk to racers and compare. You should be 120mph in the 1/4 and gain about 30mph after the 1/8. If it does this your there, dont worry about the dyno. If it traps below 115mph theres gains to be had somewhere something is wrong. Dynos and autos, search it out tons of complaints about low numbers

 

It will but that does not have a 78mm maf, smaller air bridge, air lid, and fuel issues. It seems alot of people are over looking the car had issues is why the low numbers. If the car had zero issues and then made those number that would be a different story. It WILL make more power with a bigger air intake, bigger air lid and fuel pump.

 

Ok makes sense, I hope the op posts up the results after the maf swap, fuel and re tune.
I have a 6.2 with less cam but with a truck maf, I’m wondering how much the truck maf will hurt me until I build an intake setup with the card.

 

I'm picking it up from the body shop tomorrow but the fuel pump won't be installed until late June as the installer doesn't have any availability before then unless I can find a way to get it done sooner. I may go ahead and just try to install it myself but wasn't looking forward to dealing with the exhaust and dropping the rear. Just wondering, does a PCM lose its tune if say the car sits too long unused and the battery dies? Its now driving almost exactly the way it was before it was tuned per the shop, idles very high and basically bolts if you take your foot off the brake.

 

Cut a trap door in the rear for the pump.
Here is mine.

 

How difficult is it to run the hotwire kit going the trap door method, and is there any risk of sucking up dirt / debris in the tank since I wont be draining it?

 

Super easy to do the hot wire kit with a trap door. No risk of sucking up dirt debris as you're not disturbing anything on the bottom of the tank because you didn't drop the tank lol.