It is generally accepted that each 10F rise in air temp causes a 1% loss in power due less dense air. And this does NOT include any reduction in timing due to high temps.
So if your IAT is accurate and you can reduce your intake air temps by 40F, you will gain 4% power just from denser air, PLUS be able to run more timing. As mentioned, be sure your IAT sensor and location are accurate.

Here is a calculator for "correcting" HP based on temperature, humidity and altitude, basically adjusting for the density of the oxygen in air.

 

Here is the IAT in relationship to the radiator:

 

Went and did a test with the IAT and Coolant Temp.

Went into the garage and data logged it cold (hasnt been run yet today), did NOT crank, just turned key to the ON position to see what temperatures they were reading at. According to weather.com its 82*F outside but the IAT read at 86*F with the hood open and car garaged all night. The coolant temp read right at 100*F .. My SS is parked next to it and shows the outside temperature as 84*F .. so I'm guessing the IAT is accurate.

I'm thinking of replacing the radiator, think I should go that route or investigate elsewhere?

 

Hows the air enter the intake? Your radiator temps shouldnt really influence iat when on the move.
Are your fans workings? When there on is much air coming thru radiator?

In your 1st scan your iat starts at 86f, coolant starts at 96.8f , looks like you stop just before getting on fwy and iat goes to 150f, coolant goes to 212f, you do a 7min cruise and iat drops to 118f , coolant rises to 228f then iat climbs to 152f coolant stays bout the same..
Your air is gettin heated before entering intake. With the intake you have and when on the move tht just shouldnt happen

 

It should just be taking the factory route for air as I didnt modify that. I do have a trans cooler infront of my condensor but I don't think its impeding my LID. Here is a photo of the transcooler:



I just went a bought another radiator from O'Rielys just to test and see as I've had overheating problems with my current radiator anyway. Going to install it tonight.

 

I just did the radiator and coolant fans on my 01 a couple of months ago. It wanted to overheat on me due to a large air pocket that was trapped in the system.

 

I removed old radiator, going to put the new one in tomorrow. While removing the old one, I could help but wonder about this...



That's where the filter goes in under the LID. It looks like someone tried to do the FRA mod and you see directly to the radiator underneath where the filter would be. Do you think that as I'm driving, I'm pulling in heated air from the radiator thus causing my IAT's to stay high?

just wondering did your car exhibit strange burping procedures? Mine would gush all of its coolant out if I left the cap off to burp it. It would never stop gushing. I would end up having to seal it, drive till the thermostat recycled and the coolant got low, and refill.

 

These cars are a real butthole to bleed the air out of the coolant.

 

From what I understand you're supposed to just remove the radiator cap and then run it for awhile until it burps.

 

You'll want to add the coolant slowly and start it up and let it run for 20-30 seconds shut it off. Just keep an eye on the temp gauge and don't let it get to the point that it starts to push the coolant back out of the radiator due to the trapped air in the system.

 

That's taking it too far if you ask me!

 

Do you think that also may be why its overheating? Air intended for the radiator going into the airbox instead?

 

I wouldn't think so but I'm thinking it could contribute to higher IAT's

 

Anytime your sitting still with the engine at idle for any extended period of time the IAT gets up there.

 

Im going to replace the radiator support, going to order it tomorrow. Thats the part thats butchered up. Hopefully that will fix the IAT issue.
I also found out my replacement radiator is an LT1 radiator. I have the heater nipple and I gotta cap it somehow.

 

Replaced Radiator and took it out again.

New radiator was much easier to bleed. It did not due all the gushing and coolant spouts my older aluminum radiator did and I was able to keep the cap off without needing to stand back 10 feet, however; unfortunately it is still running hot.

I put the A/C on the third fan setting and took it out on the Interstate and did between 75 and 80 MPH and according to HPTuners, it stayed at 230*F. When I get off the highway and idle, it will cool down to about 190*F - 200*F ... When cruising it lingers between 210 and 225*F.. My gauge however never leaves the 210 mark even when HPTuners is reading 230*F.. I guess I can try replacing the sensor but my next two steps are replacing the radiator support due to that huge opening that may be forcing heated air into my LID, or relocating the Transcooler somehow... I was really trying to avoid that but I may have no choice.

On the side note, my idle is much much much better after capping off the vacuum leak and I havent had it go into auto-pilot since then.

 

Try cut your transcooler supports a lot narrower looks like they are 2 inch each side. I have engine oil cooler, power steering cooler in front of my radiator and they have no effects on water temps.The supports are only 1/2 inch each side
The way i bleed the radiator is to , leave cap on , take steam vent pipe off engine side , put garden hose to steam vent pipe, it then bleeds out the steam vent tube engine side
Thats definitely why your iat is high , its sucking air straight off of the radiator. Id just fill bottom of air box back to front support.
My water temp stays pegged at 190 whether im cruising or giving it a hard time. What are your oil temps doing?

 

Well, oil pressure doesn't really change even when it gets hot. Not sure about oil temps. does the car record oil temps without a special gauge / sensor?

 

Actually im unsure about that. I know my car has a oil temp sensor on the side of the sump.

 

Bought a new radiator support. How much should I shave off to do the FRA mod or should I even attempt that yet?