Nah and yours will look different and be easier being a 99

 

You don’t need to drop the rear. Just need to pick up the car the lower the rear.

 

This

Here are the measurements for cutting.
'98 is the top
'99-'02 botton

 

Picking it up sometime today. I have to leave town again this weekend though so Im going to be delayed as far as getting the fuel pump installed. After that I'll call back and see when I can get it retuned.

In the meantime I'm also going to change the Throttle Body. It is a choice between PTM and Nick Williams. Nick Williams I have to wait on shipping. Texas Speed has a PTM throttle body in stock I can snag today. That or I can wait for shipping on a Nick Williams. I did read in a thread where the PTM TB had the same issue as my Speed Engineering Throttle Body, the blade only opening up to 70% because the spring tensioner was too tight: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-l...ody-w-t-f.html -- For that reason alone I may avoid PTM. I'm hoping not to run into the same issue with the NW however. This seems to be a prevalent issue with cars equipped with ASR / Cruise control.

Thoughts as to which one I should buy?

Edit: Ended up going Nick Williams. Also going to let LSX Power Tuning install the fuel pump and go over everything, check for vacuum leaks, retune for the MAF, LID, Fuel Pump. It will go back in June 8th.

 

WARR tbs seem to have a very good rep on here and they're cheap. Tell us you're doing a trap door for the pump?

 

I would because I really need to save the money but not going to have enough time. The whole Covid-19 reopening situation has backlogged some business I have in Atlanta and I've been having to make frequent to / from trips, Im going to have to go back there again as soon as I pick the Z28 up. When I come back I just want to get this project over with so I'm going to let LSX Power Tuning replace the pump and handle the rest of the issues.

 

Welp. My trip to Atlanta got canceled due to the rioting and protesting there. They literally burned the place down.

Guess Im going to get free time afterall.

 

What happened to George Floyd was disturbing to watch. At first my thoughts were if the man was resisting arrest then I could see one being taken to the ground and cops on top of you until restrained. I'm sure some of us have watched COPS? I have seen cops on a guy and then another cop come running in and throw a knee into the suspect while others are trying to get cuffs on the person. This man was handcuffed for crying out loud! He didn't need to be thrown on the ground unless he started to resist being arrested and from what I've seen Mr. Floyd looked to be complying but even if he did start to resist with handcuffs on the officer should not have been putting all of their weight on his neck and cutting off circulation to the brain. I heard this man saying repeatedly that he couldn't breath and the officer's should have brought him back up to his feet but all that I heard from the officer was "Just relax" while I continue to plant my knee into your neck...WRONG ANSWER!

I also understand people wanting to go out and protest to voice their opinions but to go out and vandalize property, steal from businesses and burn our flag all in the name of those who've been wronged by the system is also the "WRONG ANSWER!" This is disgraceful, it's criminal and these kinds of actions should not be tolerated in any city. I have a great admiration for the men and women in uniform who serve and protect our country and without law and order the only thing left is anarchy and mass hysteria.
I hope and pray this day never comes because that's when the shooting will really start...

 

I agree with the above. I will add that I just read that the coroner reports that he did not die of suffocation, rather an existing heart condition, but you can bet his treatment by the cop likely brought that into play. This has not yet been further substantiated.

 

Yeah. I've read into it as well and it was a pretty f'd up scene. I'm glad they are actually pressing charges on the officer responsible but these riots are getting out of hand. They literally tore Atlanta apart and raided countless high-end stores. Dallas and Houston are also undergoing unrests.

Anyhow I'm now loading VCM onto my laptop. Going to do some data-logging and take it out for a few drives. I would like to tune for the larger MAF and LID as well but I'm 100% newbie to HP Tuners. I would also like to adjust its downshifts.

 

Drove it around a bit. It was upper 80's lower 90's today. I did some datalogging with it. It actually drove fairly well. Didnt have too many issues with it, with the exception of it running hot which Im addressing as we speak. I'm going to replace the coolant sensor with an ACDelco unit, if it stills reads its running hot, I'm replacing my radiator.

I attached the datalogs. It drove much better but there was occasionally a period where it just wanted to hold 4th, and sometimes an occasion where it lightly entered autopilot - however both of those occurences were pretty rare. It seems to have more issues when it gets cooler outside so Im going to do it again tonight. If anyone wants to view them.

Datalog 1 was 50% street and 50% highway. I didn't really flog it on the highway.
Datalog 2 was also 50% street and 50% highway after a 30 minute cooldown.
Datalog 3 was flogging it on the highway, mainly to see if it would downshift. This time around it actually downshifted most of the time.
Datalog 4 was driving it on the street back home.
I also attached the tune itself.

 

Don’t you want it to hold 4th gear while cruising unless you floor it?
‘What is auto pilot?

 

In 4th, preferably would like it to downshift to 3rd at 45% - 50% throttle and 2nd at 75% - 80% throttle. Its hard overtaking someone or taking a freeway ramp from a roll when it doesnt downshift.

Autopilot is when the car keeps applying throttle even when the gas pedal is not depressed. It would basically cruise by itself no gas pedal applied even with the TPS at 0% input - I actually may have managed to fix this issue however. Im going to test again but I think I found another potential vacuum leak. I plugged it and the high idle and self propelling seemed to go away even in the cooler weather last night.

These are logs that I took last night. The 3rd and 4th log show the shifting issues I was having.

I'm replacing the thermostat with a 160* unit. Not sure whats in there now but my car averages at 210 when the AC isnt on. Also replacing the coolent temp sending unit. If those fail I'm replacing my radiator - thats the only thing I havent replaced regarding the cooling system so far.

 

I think you have some work to do with you air inlet tract, your iat's are sky high. I think the lowest it went was 135 so you have massive amounts of heat soak even when your in motion. Would be pulling so much timing

 

What was the temperature during the day and night?

 

Temp during the day was upper 80's and lower 90's
Temp during the night was about 73 - 75

During the day I was running the A/C
During the night I wasn't.

 

You need to add more data pids in scanner. Your iat's are 40+ degrees more than ambient when cruising. They start to climb fast as soon as your stationary also
Mine are usually around ambient temps when cruising, and at wot also
Timing starts being pulled at 86 with standard tune. Your dropping huge amounts of hp

 

Heres a scan of mine, what data i collect

 

Got it. .. A a couple of questions...

How were the IAT's during cold starts? (Drive1 and Night1) - they appear to be at 86 (day) and 84 (night) - just want to make sure that sounds okay for a cold start.
Same for the coolant - during the day it sat overnight but the lowest the coolant temperature read was 96.8 during a cold start and at night 125.6.

The IAT's seemed to rise consistently with coolant temperatures. I have a trans cooler infront of my condenser about an inch or 2 off. I recently shaved off huge pieces of the bracket to increase airflow but it didn't help temperatures at all. The car has had an overheating problem for a long time but I can't remember exactly what caused it, it was more-less something that one day just started happening and I couldn't ever really stop it. I 'think' it was also happening before the trans cooler but I can't remember. The thing about it is, it only overheats when driving on the highway, usually with the A/C on.

I am 'suspecting' its my radiator. It's a cheap eBay radiator I used to replace my stocker some years ago.. My radiator does not bleed properly at all. As in, if I leave the cap off to burp it with the engine running, it will instead gush ALL of its coolant out after it warms up instead of burping. This happened with both the LS1 and also the LS3, two different water pumps as well as thermostats. I'm suspecting there may be some sort of defect within it thats causing limited flow and not causing coolant to pass through as quickly as it should therefore causing the system to back up (thus the gushing) and the radiator as well as engine to overheat. -- If this is the case, will the ambient temps from the radiator, if it is indeed overheating cause the IAT's to go up by that much? Because asside from the transcooler there's nothing else down there that should be impeding airflow.

I'm 'thinking' of completely removing the trans cooler and running the trans line in a loop to see if it still overheats, if it doesn't then I'll try to completely relocate the trans cooler. if it does however then I may need to replace that radiator.

 

On a cold start your iat's should be the same as the air temp, if its 86 degrees your iat should be 86 on cold start.
If you look at my scan you'll see my iat sits on 31 degrees celsius until i start moving, then it drops quickly to 20 degrees celsius.once im moving
Once car is warmed up and then you start it youll see high iat due to heat soak but once your moving they should drop quickly, yours doesnt.
If you have your air inlet pipe sitting on the radiator itll heat soak but once moving your iat should drop. You could have your iat sensor in a place where its heat soaking ... The colder the air the denser the air the more power youll make, your the opposite
Your coolant temps are high at 125, and they could be making your iat high if you intake pipes are sitting on top of you radiator..