Fuel pressure/AFR question
Hello, recently my wideband decided to stop working so I had to replace it. Around the same time I noticed a bit of knocking (High load, low RPM is what i was experiencing, not paying attention to WOT). I swapped out my fuel filter (it's got 80K on it and was a bit clogged (Slight resistance when blowing through it). The knocking got better but watching AFR at WOT on the new WB it's in the 14s!! I have it tuned to about .1 of commanded AFR and 12.9-13.0 at WOT In all gears at those areas in my tables. It would ALWAYS be almost on my commanded AFR so I know something is amiss. I threw a mechanical gauge on and I see 58psi and idle and cruise. At WOT it will drop to 55psi and stay steady. I'm fairly sure this is fine especially since It never goes below that regardless of fuel requirement. I think my next step is to get the injectors cleaned/flowed. The injectors are stock and I want to keep it way. The fuel pump is also stock. Car runs/drives perfect aside from this. I have spoke w/ PLX regarding this and they feel if the results of testing came back good (They did) there is no way that the WOT AFR would be that far off from the part throttle and idle (which I am seeing 14.6-14.7). So at this point I either have a bad WB or I'm thinking injectors. I cannot see not knocking like crazy on 92 octane in 90 degree weather at higher loads if I was in the 14:1 zone at WOT. I haven't been watching the knock sensors as I don't have the laptop plugged in but last I checked it certainly isn't what I'd expect for a 14:1 AFR at WOT I do not believe I have any exhaust leaks pre o2. What do you guys think?
Update:
So I went ahead and added 10% to my PE table as a test and it did lean out about 1 full point so that tells me the fuel pump is fine as are the injectors. However as before I am about 1 full point leaner than commanded (12.8 commanded, seeing 13.8). It's almost like my IFR is wrong but NOTHING in this tune has changed from when it was a perfectly functional tune for about 10 years. As a reminder, as a test I did swap in another set of stock 2000 injectors. I've also tried another WBo2 just to ensure it wasn't that so I'm really out of ideas here. Anyone have any tidbits of info? I compared my stock IFR to what it is now and they are the same. Can any other settings cause this? It's not a multiplier as all i'm concerned about right now is my commanded vs. actual AFR. Looking at my tune the only other thing i see is that from the stock tune that may affect this that I had changed my MAF frequency vs. airflow using a spreadsheet and tons of logging years ago and of course my VE table.. It was fine for quite some time after that and I don't even recall if the MAF is used during WOT fueling?
I wonder if for some reason i need to retune the VE and MAF frequency tables? I did clean the MAF also but it was very clean to begin with.
The ONLY thing I can think of is a few years back (and long after I had tuned the MAF) i swapped the vararam intake supplied filter for a K&N and IF it flows better it may be leaning out out as more air could be entering the engine than the MAF is calculating for perhaps? It seems I had added about at 5% increase to my MAF frequency table across the entire range, probably to account for the additional airflow and design of the vararam intake system. Looking at my logs now I'm still 7-10% low charting wb02 vs. MAF frequency. Admittedly I have very few data samples for this log shown below but it is indicative of the issue I'm seeing. I'm debating just massaging the MAF frequency table a bit more but I'm not sure I just want to start ***** nilly playing with things as I'm very rusty w/ tuning as I haven't touched the thing in 10 plus years.
Last update,
Was definitely the MAF table. I'm actually shocked the computer couldn't actually correct for this. It HAD to be the filter change which makes sense as if it flows much better it'll lean it out some IF it was a restriction before. Goes to show w/ a vararam AND a K&N you need to add more (in my case about 15% more) airflow to the table. You'd think that it'd just measure more airflow and compensate w/a higher frequency. However that isn't occurring here, perhaps I don't understand something about this.
Last edited by TT_Vert; Jul 31, 2020 at 06:37 PM.
Dave
Your factory MAF is tuned to account for stock incoming airmass via the frequency in Hz it has to increase to get the wire temp to where it prefers to be. If you change intake size, volocities and temp you inherently changed that calibration. Since a 1 Hz change to cool that wire in a 1 inch intake is very different in mass to a 1 Hz change in a 5 inch intake.
Hopefully that makes sense.
Dave
Your factory MAF is tuned to account for stock incoming airmass via the frequency in Hz it has to increase to get the wire temp to where it prefers to be. If you change intake size, volocities and temp you inherently changed that calibration. Since a 1 Hz change to cool that wire in a 1 inch intake is very different in mass to a 1 Hz change in a 5 inch intake.
Hopefully that makes sense.
You also changed HOW the air flows through your intake, air flows similarly to water in a way so you may have actually reduced the mass of air flowing over that wire now. It may be creating little currents that are avoiding your sensor and making it see "less" mass than a stock airbox. That's why really anytime you change anything before the MAF you should tune it to match, and also why that honeycomb screen is there to try to lessen that effect as much as possible by making the flow more laminar but it can't fix it 100%. Also it's why you should never take that screen out unless you really like trying to tune MAF's.
Think of it this way, you could blow on that wire with a straw and certainly make it think it has more air mass coming through it than your new intake.
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Is the MAF right after the vararam?
I also have a C5, 85mm MAF. Been tuned MAF only by me since 2013. always tuned at the dragstrip.
If you didn’t change the MAF switch over point from stock, your car is MAF only past 4000 rpm. That’s the stock setting.
The fueling with a Vararam absolutely needs tuned at speed. The stock filter sucks. You changed that to a K&N. I did that right off the bat with a TR6 filter glued in
Here is what I found.
Fueling in low gear, low speed was far different after getting to second and then 3rd. It took a bunch of iterations to get actual vs commanded to be a reasonably flat line in the 1/4 mile.
Think about it. There is a ram air effect.
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Dave
For the sake of argument imagine we have 2 different tubes, one is 3 inches in diameter and the other is 4 inches in diameter. To keep it very simple lets say velocity, airflow dynamics, and temp are identical between these 2 pipes they would measure the same on a MAF sensor because you're only reading that small section right in the center. You would have to calibrate it for each tubes volume since you would be getting more mass with the 4 in pipe than the 3 in pipe.
That is in a perfect scenario but the fact is, is that you changed the airflow in your intake and that is a very large difference in calibration for that small area of the sensor. Air could be hugging an outer section of your intake now and not hitting the center as much. This is why you tune the fueling first then the MAF. You know your fueling is correct from the VE without using the MAF, then you enable the MAF and tune it for your explicit car since they are all different. Using anyone else's car as anything other than a very rough guide is not something I would do, there are way too many variables at work to alter airflow through your intake system.
For the sake of argument imagine we have 2 different tubes, one is 3 inches in diameter and the other is 4 inches in diameter. To keep it very simple lets say velocity, airflow dynamics, and temp are identical between these 2 pipes they would measure the same on a MAF sensor because you're only reading that small section right in the center. You would have to calibrate it for each tubes volume since you would be getting more mass with the 4 in pipe than the 3 in pipe.
That is in a perfect scenario but the fact is, is that you changed the airflow in your intake and that is a very large difference in calibration for that small area of the sensor. Air could be hugging an outer section of your intake now and not hitting the center as much. This is why you tune the fueling first then the MAF. You know your fueling is correct from the VE without using the MAF, then you enable the MAF and tune it for your explicit car since they are all different. Using anyone else's car as anything other than a very rough guide is not something I would do, there are way too many variables at work to alter airflow through your intake system.
Dave









