Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN

Really no reason not to have Holley control 2 step and boost if you are going Holley, and running a transbrake input is super simple. You can sell whatever widgets you have doing those tasks now to offset costs. Holley 2 step is free and boost control only needs a $25 solenoid.

Most people lesson the percentage of learn after the initial tuning, and you can turn it off completely. As far as turning off CL completely I'm not sure why you would want to (you can lesson its ability to correct like learn) but you certainly can, and yes its adjustable via coolant temp, TPS, RPM, etc.. as well as the aforementioned 2 step activation.

Originally Posted by minytrker

You can for sure but without hollet seeing the TB then you can run any kind of launch timers or timing retards easily since most people have these activate when you release the TB. The more inputs you have in holley the more things holley can do. It doesnt make sense to put holley on and then not use all the features it has when they are free IMO.

Originally Posted by rel3rd

Sorry, I meant disabling learn and CL for when you'd be on 2 step and transbrake.
My son has his Terminator X setup to run off wastegate, if a toggle switch is OFF, and "normal" boost with it ON, then of course "scramble" on the same button as bump. I believe that is how he has it.

Yeah, I didn't even think about any sort of launch retards, and whatnot. That may be the ticket for me to finally consistently launch off of the brake, instead of the brake pedal.

Originally Posted by cburb88

Im in the middle of tackling all this now, been using this post as my main guidance haha. Have no idea how the hell you got that hole in the firewall, i cant really get behind the firewall to see, its such a tight hidden spot inside the car, the blower motor is really in the way along with that black plastic crap. Doing the hole from the outside doesnt seem too bad i have hole saws and like 2 ft of extensions i just dont like not being able to see directly behind the firewall, such a cramped area.

Originally Posted by cmick2566

I was able to get through just fine with a hole saw from the bay side, If i remember I ran a small bit through at an angle to get my pilot and used a longer pilot on the holesaw so i was able to drill in on an angle very slowly. You may need to cut some of the plastic on the interior that acts like a liner cover on the inside afterwards. There is little to no room and it is very cramped to get the harness inside at a hard angle, having a second to help feed from the engine side may help.

Originally Posted by suicidal racing

i did a write up some yrs back on doing this but just added it to a previous thread. odd your tach didnt work. when i piggy backed my deal on my 99 z28, my factory tach still works. only things i split was crank signal as you did.i made my own splitter at the time an then i split tps signal seeing im a a4 car and by splitting the tps also it let the factory ecu still control the trans functions. i did the same with running a temp sensor into the pass head. i just extended the factory harness.

i left the stock harness there just incase i sold the car. but im now going to do what you did an de pin the factory harness.having both harnesses in the engine bay definitely clutter it up. plus im sticking a th400 into it now.. letting the stock ecu do the bmc functions is nice because it also frees up outputs/inputs on the holley by lettig the stock ecu control the fans an fuel pump instead.

for those whom split the crank or tps. the factory ecu only needs to see the signal. so there is no need to run power an ground to the sensor via both the holley an factory setup. i let the holley harness do all that an then split just the signals between the ecus.

also a ac delete panel makes for a good mounting location if you dont want to stick the holley in the glove box.

Originally Posted by cburb88

That's odd you didn't add a second cam sensor in order to retain the tach 🤔 I thought you had to. I converted to a gen 4 timing set just for that reason 🤣

Originally Posted by suicidal racing

jump to 48 seconds in, my only thing split was my crank signal. holley main harness does the power,ground an sees the 5v and the stock ecu sees the 5v via a splitter. i know in this thread im quoted about the tps and holley saying it cant be done also. welp their wrong. its set up the same as i did above. stock ecu gets a 5v signal.
https://youtu.be/K-b8-xAOBn0

Originally Posted by 01boydws6

Terminator X Install

Parts list:

Holley Part Numbers

#550-909

Terminator x 24x/1 ev6 Ls1/LS6 MPFI Kit with Handheld


#558-416

LS Main Harness to LS3 Style Map Sensor Adapter


#558-446

100 PSI Pressure Sensor

#558-465

EFI CAN Splitter


#558-443

Can To USB Dongle



Current Performance Crank Position Sensor Splitter

Part# CKP-Split

ICT Billet Oil Sending unit adapter

Part# 551534

Rockford Fosgate Battery post extender

Part# RFDGM


In today’s climate of modified hotrods there is a host of options on how to control your engine, from tuning your factory ECM to full standalone operating systems. Today we are looking at what it takes to run a LS1 engine in a fourth gen F-body 1998-02 while maintaining your factory gauges.

To start let’s look at some of the features of the Terminator-X

· Features:On-Board Diagnostic LEDS for: ECU Power – Engine Run – Wideband Status – TPS Calibration – Crank Signal – Cam Signal. Allow you to identify any Critical engine issues at a glance

· Built in 1bar MAP Sensor, vacuum hose adapters included (1/8th – ¼ and 3/16ths) - or for Boosted applications, you can disable the internal MAP sensor, and utilize an external MAP Sensor, the harness comes with the connector terminated, making the installation a snap.

· 4 Inputs – 12v, Ground, 5v, and Frequency, for things such as additional pressure sensors, or activation triggers for nitrous activation, or a trans brake (Fuel and Oil Pressure Inputs are pre-terminated)

· 4 Outputs – Ground, PWM - , for accessories such as; fans, boost control, nitrous control, IAC Kit, and More

· Boost Control – Boost vs Time, Boost vs Gear, Boost vs RPM, Boost vs Speed, Boost Safeties

· Nitrous Control – Single Channel of Wet or Dry, Progressive or Non-Progressive, Rich/Lean Safeties, and target Closed Loop AFR

· Advanced Tables – 4x 1D Tables, 1x 1D per Gear Table, 4x 2D Tables, 1x 2D per Gear Table

· Integrated Data logging to the 3.5” Handheld SD Card

· Free EFI Tuning Software for complete control of your Terminator X power plant


We ordered the Holley #550-909

Terminator x 24x/1 ev6 Ls1/LS6 MPFI Kit with Handheld

This kit includes The Terminator X Control module & Touch Screen Controller shown below

Along with Standalone plug and play wiring Harness


To start the install you want to layout where the Terminator X is going to be mounted. The directions suggest that the unit should be installed in the cab but if you choose it can also be mounted in the engine bay. We chose to go for mounting the unit in the glove box for a clean easy to access mounting point while maintaining the factory look when the glovebox is closed.

Once the mounting location is determined, it is necessary to find an existing hole through the firewall or drill a new one for the wiring harness to pass into the engine bay. We chose to pull the factory ecm out and route our new harness as close to the factory routing as we could without disturbing other wiring. With the use of a 2-1/4” hole saw and a long extension on our drill we were able to get through the fire wall and start pulling the harness through, the 2-1/4” hole made it necessary to push the large connectors on the harness through one at a time.

A 1-1/2” and 1-3/4” hole saw was used in the back plastic of the glovebox to allow the harness to pass through the glovebox to the firewall.

Once the harness is out into the engine bay it was time to start routing the harness to its perspective locations.
The harness itself is labeled so you know where that connection needs to go.

We chose to extend the Head grounds to run to the front of the cylinder heads since we were leaving some of the factory wiring installed.

Once we routed the wiring harness close to its final resting place we chose to start the process of removing the unneeded factory wiring that is replaced by the Terminator Harness. This was not required but we felt it would provide a cleaner install without having to tuck the factory harness out of the way somewhere in an already crowded engine bay. All of the factory Fuel injector, coil pack wiring, IAC, TPS and IAT wiring was removed by tracing each wire in the harness back to the ecm connector and un-pinning those wires from the Red and Blue ecm connectors. With wanting to keep the factory Gauges functional in the F-Body we used a current performance crank splitter to run signal back to pin number 12 on the factory Blue ecm connector while also maintaining crank signal to the Terminator. Once all of the factory wiring was trimmed out, it was time to finish the install of the Holley and plug and play to all the sensory outputs. If you are not going to use the knock sensors you will not need to remove the intake, we chose to use them so we removed the intake to gain easy access to the knock sensor, map sensor and cam sensor. A decision was made to leave the factory wiring going to the oil-sending unit that sits at on the driver rear of the engine. We chose to use a ICT Billet oil sending unit #551534 and removed the factory sending unit cap above the oil filter, this was done to allow both the factory gauge to remain functional as well as the Terminator X get the input it needs. Keeping with the theme of having the factory gauges remaining functional we added a coolant temp sensor to the back of the passenger cylinder head to pull a reading for the factory gauge while plugging the Terminator X wiring into the normal sensor location at the front of the driver’s side cylinder head. Once all the sensory connections were routed and completed it was time to source connections for the loose wires on the harness.

The following loose wires in the main wiring harness should be connected as follows on all systems. All of these wires come out of the harness about 40” from the ECU connectors except for the “12V Switched” wire.

[Required] 12V Switched – Color = Red/White – Should be connected to a clean +12 volt power source. Power source should only be active when the ignition is on. Make sure source has power when engine is cranking as well (check with voltmeter). Not all sources apply power when the ignition switch is in “cranking” position. This wire is located approximately 7” from the ECU connectors. DO NOT connect to a “DIRTY” source like an ignition coil!

[Required] 12V Battery – Color = Red – Should be connected directly to the battery. This powers the fuel pump and fuel injectors. A fuse in a sealed fuse holder protects this wire. The fuse holder is located about 18” from the ECU connector. A fuse is pre-installed (20A).

[Optional] 12V Fuel Pump – Color = Green - Used to directly power a fuel pump (+12 volt). Do not use this wire to power fuel pumps that require over 15 Amps. Refer to your fuel pump manufacturer for amperage ratings. For high current pumps, use this wire to trigger a separate relay and use larger gauge wire to feed the pump - 10 gauge is recommended. The pump that include with TERMINATOR™ systems draws less than 10 Amps and can be powered directly by this wire. The fuel pump also requires a ground wire. Run a wire from the negative side of the fuel pump. Connect it to a solid chassis/frame ground.

[Required] Chassis Ground – Color = Black – Connect to a chassis ground point that has excellent connectivity with both the engine and battery. There must be good continuity between the connection point and the battery when checked with a digital volt ohm meter (DVOM). This ground should not be connected at the same location as other grounds.

[Optional] Tach Output – Color = Blue with white stripe – This wire provides a 12v square wave output and can be used to trigger a conventional tachometer. 12.0 ADDITIONAL OUTP


For the 12v switched source the C101 plug that would normally be on the passenger fender, (our car was wire tucked so this was re-located to the passenger wheel well). Using a test light you want to find a 12v source that is both powered when the key is on and while cranking.

The 12V Battery source needs to go straight to the battery and no exceptions!

For our ground, we chose to use a factory ground location on the passenger fender that was no longer in use by any other grounds.

We did not use the optional Fuel Pump or Tach wires, we heat shrunk the ends closed on each wire and tucked those back towards the firewall out of site.

Completed the engine bay looks relatively unaltered. The braided wire shielding that comes on the Holley harness and looks very natural in its new home. The Holley Terminator X now will control this LS Procharged Trans Am. The Terminator gives us the ability to configure the current setup from the 3.5” handheld screen or from a laptop. Allowing for easily changing the tune down the road for any future upgrades without having to buy new credits or pay for retunes for us this made going Terminator a no brainer.

Originally Posted by suicidal racing

jump to 48 seconds in, my only thing split was my crank signal. holley main harness does the power,ground an sees the 5v and the stock ecu sees the 5v via a splitter. i know in this thread im quoted about the tps and holley saying it cant be done also. welp their wrong. its set up the same as i did above. stock ecu gets a 5v signal.
https://youtu.be/K-b8-xAOBn0

Originally Posted by cburb88

Hmm interesting, welp i already have the cover, sensor and whatnot installed so I guess I'll extend the factory cam sensor to it anyways 🤷‍♂️ then holley to the oem, currently battling myself as to whether I really feel like removing the old uneeded wiring , coils,inj etc haha

Originally Posted by minytrker

I have not put terminator in 4th gen but have in trucks, C6's and C7 and split crank and vss in all of them. Only thing you cant split is a thermistor (coolant temp) from what I have seen.