Currently trying to dial in my LSA/4L80e combo in my 1972 Chevelle. In doing so, I'm noticing the temps on the trans get warm quick and it seems I can't drive more than 10-15 mins before they start to creep to 190 before I decide to shut it off. I'm using a Dewitts trans cooler and wanna make sure its not a tune issue before I start further addressing the cooling system. The trans is a Stage 3 Jakes with a Circle D triple disk 3000 rpm stall. I'm working with my tuner remotely on this until we can get it on the dyno, however with the trans temps rising, unless i trailer the car down there, I won't be able to drive it. Gotta get this cooling right. I have posted my tune file along w a log of me driving. If there are more parameters I need to log, I'd be happy to do so. I just copied some dudes from YT....Thanks!

 

Make sure the temp sender is good.

 

Temp should read near ambient when it's been sitting overnight. Your log starts at 91 degrees, so it's prob just fine.
Is your trans cooler a stand alone unit? Or part of the radiator?
I noticed in your log that the converter never locks. You should log mph, and then compare to your lockup tables.
Also add Trans Current Gear.
This should be locking in 3rd above 35mph.

190 isn't too hot, and if your cooler is in the radiator, the trans will run near engine coolant temp. It doesn't have a choice.
Myself, I prefer just a stand alone cooler.
250 is too hot, so don't let it get there.

Ron

 

The cooler is apart of my radiator so I guess it does make sense why it’s around the same temp. Between the radiator, SC heat exchanger and AC, condenser, the front of my car is packed. Maybe I gotta figure out a way to mount and external cooler somewhere. Ill
go ahead and add this pids to hptuners and repost results tonite. I too noticed that I never seen the converter lock up.

 

As long as it doesn’t go past coolant temp, or much past, that’s fine.
Will be much cooler with a separate cooler not plumbed inline with the radiator.

Same issue with my turbo car. So I mounted the cooler under the car. Have to admit I don’t have a temp gauge on that car. It’s a TH400.

4L60 in my vette never gets past 175 with the separate cooler up front.

Your tune indicates 26” tires and a 3.70 rear end ratio. Is that correct?

 

Correct on the tire size for now
I'll do some research on an inline cooler. Just need to make sure I can get airflow to it!

 

As was mentioned above, you need to scan it, or use HP Tuners data log, to see if the PCM is sending the signals for lock up. You also need to monitor TCC SLIP RPM... When it goes into lock up, the slip rpm should be between a negative number and 10... Maximum of 10. If the PCM is not sending the signals for TCC Lock up... Or if your wiring is wrong and the solenoids inside the trans are not receiving the signals to lock up-the trans it is going to run hot on the freeway.. Yes, it will eventually over-heat and melt the trans. Also.. Keep in mind that a factory PCM will NOT ALLOW TCC lock up if there are any misfire codes present... The PCM is programmed to try and save the torque converters lock up clutch in case the engine is misfiring. So... If there is a misfire code(s) present, you must fix that problem first as it will prevent TCC lock up.

Your 1972 Chevelle is NOT WIRED correctly from the factory to pair the brake pedal switch with the TCC lock up function with the PCM. Check your BLUE connector, Pin 33... When the key is in the "RUN" position.. you MUST HAVE 12+ at that wire.. If there is not 12V+ on that wire when the key is in the run position, you will NOT have TCC lock up.... If you find you have no wire there... Just add a wire to that cavity and give it 12 volts + (positive) when the key is ON/RUN.

Also... you did not mention what year 4L80E trans you are using.. If you are using a 97 or later, that has the cooler lines spread apart... You must be very careful that the REAR cooler line fitting has the 1.5" long nipple on it... I've seen it happen often that guys will go over to braided stainless line and put a cooler line fitting in the rear position that does not have that nipple on it.. no nipple will show up early as a trans that gets hot quickly.. But shortly you will DESTROY the entire gear train assembly inside requiring a full rebuild, and starting with another core as so much stuff will be completely destroyed requiring another complete trans. I try and steer customers away from braided stainless.. The factory steel lines actually act as heat exchangers for their entire length.. Braided stainless lines actually INSULATE the heat, holding it, inside the lines putting more work on the trans cooler(s).. I get that steel lines don't look "racy" but they darn sure help in cooling the trans fluid down. Regardless, check the rear most cooler line fitting before you do anything else.. look at this;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282758081...kaAjTnEALw_wcB

 

190 is a good temp as measured in the pan in an 80e

you gotta figure out the no lockup situation tho. can you command it to lock with the scanner?

Ron and i just wen thru this in his buddies rig. Had 3 grown men scratchin their heads for a couple weeks and it turned out to be a bad converter.

 

I'm not sure if it did attach properly or not but my HPT log file and scans are posted in my original post? The trans I am using is a 1993 core so both of my coolant lines are up front. I'll check w/ my tuner to make sure he has the misfires set to ignore. or at high enough levels to not read. I haven't seen any lately show up on my scans however yes, its a good idea to double check. I am confused on the factory wiring to the PCM you stated. That is def something I'll need to check! I purchased a complete LSA4l80e hardness from BP Automotive so I can't way one way or another right now if its in there. \
I am using braided steel lines with reflectve heat sheilds going around it but it makes sense what you're saying w steel lines. Something else i'll check.

One thing I am 100% doing because I overlooked and took it for granted. SInce my cooler is only on the radiator, it makes sense why it heats up fast and at the same temp as my water temp. I'm gonna go with a B&M and find a spot to mount it up front. I already have the Condenser/HX/Radiator in that stack, but I can prolly fit a B&M 70264/70263 or 70266 up front. I'd like to get the smaller of the 2 to help increase airflow through it all. Do you think the 7064 would suffice? Thanks for the response!

 

I think before I changed ANYTHING... I'd be logging TCC RPM SLIP (RATIO) and, TCC APPLIED YES/NO.. You must make sure that the PCM is actually sending the signal to lock up the TCC... secondly, if the signals are being sent, that the trans is receiving those signals, and then acting on them. I would do nothing else until you have done these two things first. You may not need to change anything with your trans cooler arrangement. You will only know if you need to make changes with the cooler, or lines, AFTER doing the first two checks/tests I've mentioned above.

 

I'll do so! Once i get a night where it doesn't rain, I'll do some more logging and post results. Thanks!!

 

No problem. Please post back and let us know what you find. If for no other reason other people searching the forums now, or in the future, may find your info useful. If you have any further issues, I'll help you any way I can. I've done a LOT of LS swaps, and a LOT of 4L80E swaps.

 

looks like tcc enable solenoid is disabled?
i would also set the tcc duty cycle minimum to 99%, aftermarket usually likes to be locked or unlocked

 

The best tuner is the business has made some changes to my trans file. I can't wait to try it out! Won't be tonite. Thunderstorms are hitting!

 

Good catch Randeez! I never even looked at the tune, or the log.. It clearly shows no signal ever being sent by the PCM for lock up to occur-which would point back to a PCM issue.. I just went and looked at both the tune, and also the log and it's clear as day.

 

Weather looks good for tonite, so I can go out and try the tune changes and see the differences.

 

Here is my drive from tonite. i'm still not seeing lockup The tune I'm 100% the is correct so issue lies else where. I'll check that wiring you told me about and go from there. After that, I'm fresh out of ideas.

 

You have a P0300 code, it wont lock up with that code.

 

Good eye. I read that you need max out the misfire tables. I have Revolution Mode - Normal. Cylinder Modes - Idle, Idle DOD, Normal, Normal 3 and Normal DOD. SCD Mode - Idle, Off idle, Idle 2 and Off idle 2.

Do I want to max out all of those to 32767? I do have the code disabled in DCT.

 

Yes that will turn off misfire, you can also raise the rpm test.