Loosing Crank Signal
New Build - 427ci LS, Holley Terminator X Max ECU and Harness, Dart Next SHP fully skirted iron block, forged rotating assembly, RHS LS7 307 CNC Cyl Heads, Whipple 4.5 Blower, E-85, Comp cam, 58x Reluctor etc.
New Superflow Dyno - Engine Break-in went fine, engine revs fine on dyno without "load". Started to make first pull and engine lost crank signal at 3800 RPM. Tuner made several changes, adjustments etc., in an attempt to rule out issues and or isolate the issue. Installed another new OEM Crank Sensor same result. I contacted Dart, per Dart some of the first casting of these blocks, the mounting surface for the crank sensor wasn't machined enough so you have to "clearance" the surface, so the sensor is close enough to the reluctor. BTW - per Dart this issue was corrected in subsequent castings. The shop verified the distance of sensor and it's with-in tolerance so that wasn't the issue. When it losses crank signal, it goes back to idle and will rev fine as long as it's not under a load. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again
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I wonder if other people have had issues like this with the Terminator
The Holley diagnostics shows the loss of crank signal.
Im not sure if he has a 24 or 58x wheel.
I researched a bit and yes others have had the issue. In typical internet fashion, most of the posts dead end with no solution reported.
I think swapping out the TermX box is an excellent idea.
Last edited by RonSSNova; Jul 25, 2022 at 12:41 PM.
The Holley diagnostics shows the loss of crank signal.
Im not sure if he has a 24 or 58x wheel.
I researched a bit and yes others have had the issue. In typical internet fashion, most of the posts dead end with no solution reported.
I think swapping out the TermX box is an excellent idea.
Crank signal loss fireball
I'm just hoping it's either a power/ground issue, chafed wire, or the sensor maybe got wacked..
What external crank triggers are available for the 58x ls?
I can only seem to find 12/1 or 12x nothing 58x for ls
Don't assume a new Crank Sensor is good, or even two. Some strange phenomena is happening with these parts and sensors that there are tremendous failure rates right out of the box. Use OEM, or better yet switch from a known good engine. Do not use anything Dorman that's electronic.
IF ALL ELSE FAILS, and this is a LONG SHOT, check the reluctor wheel/crank for magnetism. Yes, it's a thing, albeit a very rare thing. Usually happens in long term swaps with badly placed grounds though.
Another long shot is a alternator failure causing ripple noise on the crank signal, but your scope will show that.
"IF ALL ELSE FAILS, and this is a LONG SHOT, check the reluctor wheel/crank for magnetism. Yes, it's a thing, albeit a very rare thing. Usually happens in long term swaps with badly placed grounds though".
Would/could this phenom be created as a result of a crank being magnafluxed and not being completely/correctly demagnetized afterward?











