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hey guys...
I will try here...
I have a 54 chevy truck swap that needs tuning...
i'm from paraguay, i imported a 2006 5.3 lm7 with 4l60e, 3.73 rear end for my 54 chevy truck... i followed the steps from lt1swap to harness, pcm was sent to lt1swap to flash.
I have the engine working on the chevy 54, but it doesn't work as I would like....
it's consuming 13mpg on a 300 mile trip I took recently.
so i decided to buy my hpt and try something, but i don't have any experience with hpt or vehicle tune, it's my first time doing it, i even took an online course with a guy from mexico for the ease of understanding the language, but it was a course beginner so I didn't learn what I would like. I started watching videos of you guys in English and trying to translate to spanish them but it's very difficult, I managed to learn something...
comparing the tune of the guys in the video with mine I noticed that my engine came with a tune.
my problem is the high fuel consumption and the high ltfts,
the air filter, pipe and the location of the maf sensor have been modified, I also have my exhaust without cats with x pipe and 2 mufler aftermarket
I believe I have to recalibrate the maf, but I can't understand the steps for this in the videos.
I would like to improve the mpg consumption for long trips, I don't care about power, the stock power is fine for me, I want more fuel economy.
I'll leave the file attached if someone with a good heart can take a look and give an opinion, I've tried hard these days watching videos and translating into Spanish trying to learn something before coming here to ask for help...
I made this reduction in front of the maf sensor and managed to lower the ltft from between +15 and +25 to 0 and +10
at some rpm and load it stays zero at others it increases to +5, +10
but I didn't do an average mpg to see if the consumption improved.
but this reduction shouldn't be like that, it should be temporary until I learn to tune
I'm running a normally aspirated 5.3 LM7 and my STFT and LTFT are very similar to yours and I got 23 MPG on a trip earlier today. But!! I have 2.73 gears in the differential and that makes a huge difference in gas mileage. I'm running 1800 RPM at 70 MPH in overdrive. What I've given up here is that I'm flat out unable to smoke a tire. But that's OK fine by me.
Are you sure you are getting into overdrive and that the torque converter is going into lockup?
I'm running a normally aspirated 5.3 LM7 and my STFT and LTFT are very similar to yours and I got 23 MPG on a trip earlier today. But!! I have 2.73 gears in the differential and that makes a huge difference in gas mileage. I'm running 1800 RPM at 70 MPH in overdrive. What I've given up here is that I'm flat out unable to smoke a tire. But that's OK fine by me.
Are you sure you are getting into overdrive and that the torque converter is going into lockup?
Rick
how do i check that i'm going into overdrive?
well i'm running 60mph at 1900rpm so it should be ok
60mph is my cruise speed herebut notice that I had to make this restriction in the maf to be able to decrease the ltft, without this restriction in front of the maf the ltft reaches +25
Look at your commanded AFR.. You are at 13.6 at 50MPH. Are you running E85? Or what type of fuel? When I look at your Hp Tuners/Fuel/General/Stoich-I see a very RICH set up... Also.. during your log you do a full throttle run and the commanded AFR bounces back and forth between 14.68 and 13.6 EVEN when you are under full throttle it was showing 14.68. Power enrichment shows you are commanding a 12.19AFR from 3200 RPM on up.. Maybe the log is not recording commanded AFR correctly? Depending on what type of fuel you are running, that is quite rich. Your tune shows you are running 26 lb./hr. injectors, yet you mention having a 2006 engine... Are you certain the fuel injector data is correct for the injectors that are on the engine? If the injectors don't match the data in the tune it's going to create big issues with fueling. Also, are you running a RETURN style vacuum regulated fuel pressure set up... Or? Corvette fuel filter? Does your injector rail have TWO lines connected to it-a feed line, and a RETURN line? Your HP Tuners/fuel/flex fuel/ shows to be disabled so unless you are running alcohol, or E85 something is up with your stoich. In regards to the restriction that you placed in front of the MAF.. Remove it, and tune it properly before driving it anymore.. Also, that air filter is less than desirable.. It looks like you are limited on space, but I would find a way to put a MUCH bigger, larger, longer, filter in place. The one you have now looks like it could be a restriction under high rpm/Full throttle use.
There are a bunch of good videos on tuning.. How many of those are in spanish? I'm not sure. But.. Think of your PCM as having THREE 3 main sections that all need to be tuned properly in order for them to all work together as a team. Idle, VE or speed density, and Maf. Everything centers on having a correct VE table so I would start there.. You will need to learn how to shut off the MAF sensor so that the engine is running ONLY on/off the VE table so that you can properly tune that. Do you have a wide band O2 sensor? If not, you can get by for now by tuning the lower RPM ranges of the VE table with the factory narrow band O2's but it is slow, and tedious, and you will need to keep the engine rpm's down until you get it dialed in. I see in your log that you were doing full throttle runs and the LTFT's were showing you to be pretty close. But.. until you get it properly tuned with a wide band, I would refrain from any more full throttle runs. When you are actively tuning start by getting the 3000 and under part of the ve table polished as best as possible as that is where the engine will spend the majority of it's lifetime.
Also is the tire height correct? Shows you have 28" tall tires. As the poster above stated-for best fuel economy, and if you want the transmission to LIVE you MUST verify that the torque converter is locking up. You can use HP Tuners, or any general scanner (good ones of course) to monitor TCC ENABLE and TCC SLIP RPM.. You will know when the TCC is locked up as the slip RPM will be between a negative #, and up to about 10. Anything higher than 100rpm slip means it is NOT locked up. The TCC enable pid will show you whether or not the PCM is actually sending the signal for lock up. If it never goes to ENABLE-then you have a tune, or wiring, issue. If it goes to "ENABLE" but the slip RPM does not come down to between -10 & 10.. then you potentially have other issues inside the transmission or with the torque converter itself. The TCC Isolator valve in the 4L60E trans is a known issue as it wears the bore in the valve body. Once the bore is worn-the converter will not lock up properly and you will see slip RPM in excess of 100. At that point you MUST fix the problem (many different solutions) or it will destroy the trans. The converter will not lock up unless the PCM commands it, and then only when the wiring is correct, the isolator valve bore is in good condition, and the torque converter and associated lock up solenoids are all in good mechanical condition. Factory GM vehicles utilize the brake pedal switch as part of the TCC lock up circuit. In a factory GM vehicle when your foot is OFF the brake pedal (pedal not depressed) there is 12V + running from the brake switch to the PCM (It's Pin 33 on the BLUE connector on the P01 computers). That wire MUST HAVE 12V+ going to it when your foot is OFF the brake pedal. If there is no 12V+ getting to that wire you will NEVER have lock up and your transmission will be dead shortly due to over-heating... STOP driving it until you can verify that the trans is locking up or else you will be rebuilding the transmission very soon. If you don't want to tie that wire through to your brake switch, just tie that wire to a switched 12V source so that it gets power any time the key is in the "RUN" position. It won't unlock the torque converter when you step on the brakes while going down the road-but who cares? That's not an issue. If it's not locking up THAT'S A HUGE ISSUE!
Forgot to say, post back with updates or any new questions and we will help you as best we can.
Look at your commanded AFR.. You are at 13.6 at 50MPH. Are you running E85? Or what type of fuel? When I look at your Hp Tuners/Fuel/General/Stoich-I see a very RICH set up... Also.. during your log you do a full throttle run and the commanded AFR bounces back and forth between 14.68 and 13.6 EVEN when you are under full throttle it was showing 14.68. Power enrichment shows you are commanding a 12.19AFR from 3200 RPM on up.. Maybe the log is not recording commanded AFR correctly? Depending on what type of fuel you are running, that is quite rich. Your tune shows you are running 26 lb./hr. injectors, yet you mention having a 2006 engine... Are you certain the fuel injector data is correct for the injectors that are on the engine? If the injectors don't match the data in the tune it's going to create big issues with fueling. Also, are you running a RETURN style vacuum regulated fuel pressure set up... Or? Corvette fuel filter? Does your injector rail have TWO lines connected to it-a feed line, and a RETURN line? Your HP Tuners/fuel/flex fuel/ shows to be disabled so unless you are running alcohol, or E85 something is up with your stoich. In regards to the restriction that you placed in front of the MAF.. Remove it, and tune it properly before driving it anymore.. Also, that air filter is less than desirable.. It looks like you are limited on space, but I would find a way to put a MUCH bigger, larger, longer, filter in place. The one you have now looks like it could be a restriction under high rpm/Full throttle use.
There are a bunch of good videos on tuning.. How many of those are in spanish? I'm not sure. But.. Think of your PCM as having THREE 3 main sections that all need to be tuned properly in order for them to all work together as a team. Idle, VE or speed density, and Maf. Everything centers on having a correct VE table so I would start there.. You will need to learn how to shut off the MAF sensor so that the engine is running ONLY on/off the VE table so that you can properly tune that. Do you have a wide band O2 sensor? If not, you can get by for now by tuning the lower RPM ranges of the VE table with the factory narrow band O2's but it is slow, and tedious, and you will need to keep the engine rpm's down until you get it dialed in. I see in your log that you were doing full throttle runs and the LTFT's were showing you to be pretty close. But.. until you get it properly tuned with a wide band, I would refrain from any more full throttle runs. When you are actively tuning start by getting the 3000 and under part of the ve table polished as best as possible as that is where the engine will spend the majority of it's lifetime.
Also is the tire height correct? Shows you have 28" tall tires. As the poster above stated-for best fuel economy, and if you want the transmission to LIVE you MUST verify that the torque converter is locking up. You can use HP Tuners, or any general scanner (good ones of course) to monitor TCC ENABLE and TCC SLIP RPM.. You will know when the TCC is locked up as the slip RPM will be between a negative #, and up to about 10. Anything higher than 100rpm slip means it is NOT locked up. The TCC enable pid will show you whether or not the PCM is actually sending the signal for lock up. If it never goes to ENABLE-then you have a tune, or wiring, issue. If it goes to "ENABLE" but the slip RPM does not come down to between -10 & 10.. then you potentially have other issues inside the transmission or with the torque converter itself. The TCC Isolator valve in the 4L60E trans is a known issue as it wears the bore in the valve body. Once the bore is worn-the converter will not lock up properly and you will see slip RPM in excess of 100. At that point you MUST fix the problem (many different solutions) or it will destroy the trans. The converter will not lock up unless the PCM commands it, and then only when the wiring is correct, the isolator valve bore is in good condition, and the torque converter and associated lock up solenoids are all in good mechanical condition. Factory GM vehicles utilize the brake pedal switch as part of the TCC lock up circuit. In a factory GM vehicle when your foot is OFF the brake pedal (pedal not depressed) there is 12V + running from the brake switch to the PCM (It's Pin 33 on the BLUE connector on the P01 computers). That wire MUST HAVE 12V+ going to it when your foot is OFF the brake pedal. If there is no 12V+ getting to that wire you will NEVER have lock up and your transmission will be dead shortly due to over-heating... STOP driving it until you can verify that the trans is locking up or else you will be rebuilding the transmission very soon. If you don't want to tie that wire through to your brake switch, just tie that wire to a switched 12V source so that it gets power any time the key is in the "RUN" position. It won't unlock the torque converter when you step on the brakes while going down the road-but who cares? That's not an issue. If it's not locking up THAT'S A HUGE ISSUE!
Forgot to say, post back with updates or any new questions and we will help you as best we can.
hi, thanks for taking the time and answering me....
I really have no idea, I'm totally inexperienced with this tune...
But I'll answer your questions...
- I'm not sure about the fuel, paraguay is a place that doesn't have much control over fuel but the fuel here is 24% alcohol.
- yes, I have a v8 5.3 2006 lm7 that I imported from ebay, and it already came with these adjustments, injectors and wire harness and pcm, I followed the steps from lt1swap to wire harness and pcm was sent to lt1swap for flash, vats, emisions, etc.
- I'm using corvette style pressure regulator and walbro 255lph in tank
- the air filter, I have another indicated kyn that has just arrived, I will put it on
- I don't know how to adjust idle, v.e , and maf. I've seen several videos translated them and I couldn't understand.
- I don't have a broadband sensor.
- yes, I have the +12 wire from the brake switch to the pcm. But I'll check with your tips...
my problem is that i imported the complete engine as it is now, i expected to have a stock tune in pcm, but comparing with a stock tune on the web my tune doesn't look like stock. I don't know if I can trust this tune that came in the pcm.
really here in paraguay this is the only ls swap and there is no one who can tune me here. usually the guys here throw away the efi stock and put fueltech.
Tcc brake of = turn no/yes
I don't want to drive right now, it's raining and there's mud outside. I will continue the tests when it's sunnyTCC seems to be fine. one less problem to worry about
I'm going to keep watching videos and translating them, I don't give up easy, I'm going to learn at least the basics
Can anyone confirm this... to adjust the VE and MAF I must
step 1
switch to speed density by doing this...
* dynamic
_ high rpm disable to 40
_ high rpm enable to 30
*diag engine
_ maf frequency fail high to 2
_ maf frequency fail low to 1
* fuel cutoff
_enable ect to 490
_disable ect 489
* cot disable
With these settings can I calibrate the MAF and VE? Or is this just for the MAF, or is this just for the VE?
I save this tune in pcm and drive to registry
step 2
in scan
-for VE
New graphic. long therm fuel trim ratio. unit %. shading +25 red, 0, -25 green
-column axis= engine speed rpm, unit= rpm,
- value= copy VE column axis and paste here.
- row axis= manifold absolute pressure, unit kpa
-value= copy row axis VE and paste here
step 3
Make a record in drive, and copy the data from this graph and paste it with % or %-half in the VE table.
Okay, I make several records until it's good.
Can I continue here and do the same for MAF? Using step 1? Or should I reset step 1?
Graph
- new graph - long therm fuel trim ratio, unit %
-column axis, mass air flow frequency, unit hz
- value - copy column axis from airflow vs frequency table and paste here.
Log, copy this data and paste % or %-half into the air flow vs frequency table.
after everything is adjusted, I reset step 1 to the parameters as they were
The pcm is not going to enable tcc lock up unless you are driving at. Or above, the speeds set in your tcc apply table. You will have to drive it to see if the PCM is commanding lock up. For now.. just test pin 33 with a voltmeter to see if it is getting power with the key in the RUN position.
Nice truck! I love seeing car guys doing this stuff outside the US.
My question is, are all the parts you got 100% original from the donor vehicle?
If so, the ecu should have just had VATS turned off. And gear ratio/tire size matched to your vehicle.
Engines from those years had a variety of MAF’s equipped stock.
I see you have an 85mm round style from a truck. If that wasn’t orig to the engine, it might have a different calibration curve.
thanks man....
-yes, all parts are from the same donor vehicle, that's what the ebay seller told me. only the aftermarket air filter
- vats was turned off, emisions, cats turned off, electric fans turned on, but maps were not adjusted
- 4l60e transmission, 3.73 rear end, tires 225/75/15
today i drove the truck a bit and the problems seem to only get worse. it seems to me that it went into limp mode because it lost power, it even accelerated but it seemed like it was limited, it took a while to change from first to second gear, but it didn't show a fault code.... I hope it's not a transmission problem now, I turned it off and I called again and everything was normal, tomorrow I will drive and make a log.
What do I need to configure in vcm scan to log?
I'm leaving here another log that I made with the new k&N cone filter without the restriction that I had placed in front of the maf.now I know that gasoline here in Paraguay contains 20% to 25% ethanol
08-06-2022 | 11:18 AM
low mpg and high ltft, need tune?????? 
