Help What Is Making Me Go Though O2 Senors?
10-27-2004, 09:09 AM
#24
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
We use rear 02's on the front (with an adapter harness) when installing really long tube headers (the LGMs for instance are 32" primaries with a 6" collector) the rear 02s are 65W the stock fronts are 35-40W. The higher wattage keeps the 02 up to temp, and they don't have switching errors...
10-27-2004, 10:52 AM
#26
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
Don't know of any higher ones. I think the wattage rating is on the sensor itself... Seen it posted before, but I can't find the post...
10-27-2004, 04:12 PM
#27
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From a cold start, if you idle, your spend more time in cold start mode. This mode is enriched by added fuel (to keep the car running) and the oil is out of range to purge water contamination or burn it off, water is naturally going to condensate in the tops of the valve covers etc. water suxors for lubing the pistons.
hence why you want to let the car go 30-60 seconds to get your proper (summer/winter) fluids moving, then drive lightly (as in not lugging low rpm, not revving/loading) the motor. This will yield the fastest time to full operating temps. Where emissions are least: less emissions,less fouling of oil, less wear, blah blah. Prob be smarter to turn up the fans or block the radiator in the winter if you log your coolant temps dropping on freeway speeds for instance. colder is not absolutely better, unless you plan to tear down the motor alot.
It's probably in your owners manual. I used to drive 2 miles to work, and back. I'd have to change my oil every 3 months or 400 miles, usually 400 miles, and it was gassy smelling already. Because i never spent enough time at full op temps, and mostly in fuel enrichment temps during the winter.(was my supercharged vw)
similar reason why your auto will never lock up (does it even shift into 4?) while cold, the pressure could annihilate the tranny and the fluids aren't in their optimal temp ranges to lubricate as necessary.
letting a car idle for 5 minutes on a cold morning is exactly what the dealer wants you to do, so you torch your engine faster and burn holes in the o-zone. lol. Otherwise they make heated seats, which work quite nice on those chilly mornings. It baffles me to watch the bmw owners near me run out to the car on a 32F morning, jump in, floor it driving off. I guess if you lease, no biggie, but damn poor car.
car manufacturers expect your car to last as long as the warranty lol. those that take care of the car in every minute detail probably have a motor that has 200K on it that doesn't smoke, those that lease the cars and never follow the book, probably will never care, those that buy those leased cars will have oil eating pos and be hating it later on. Makes sense.
hence why you want to let the car go 30-60 seconds to get your proper (summer/winter) fluids moving, then drive lightly (as in not lugging low rpm, not revving/loading) the motor. This will yield the fastest time to full operating temps. Where emissions are least: less emissions,less fouling of oil, less wear, blah blah. Prob be smarter to turn up the fans or block the radiator in the winter if you log your coolant temps dropping on freeway speeds for instance. colder is not absolutely better, unless you plan to tear down the motor alot.
It's probably in your owners manual. I used to drive 2 miles to work, and back. I'd have to change my oil every 3 months or 400 miles, usually 400 miles, and it was gassy smelling already. Because i never spent enough time at full op temps, and mostly in fuel enrichment temps during the winter.(was my supercharged vw)
similar reason why your auto will never lock up (does it even shift into 4?) while cold, the pressure could annihilate the tranny and the fluids aren't in their optimal temp ranges to lubricate as necessary.
letting a car idle for 5 minutes on a cold morning is exactly what the dealer wants you to do, so you torch your engine faster and burn holes in the o-zone. lol. Otherwise they make heated seats, which work quite nice on those chilly mornings. It baffles me to watch the bmw owners near me run out to the car on a 32F morning, jump in, floor it driving off. I guess if you lease, no biggie, but damn poor car.
car manufacturers expect your car to last as long as the warranty lol. those that take care of the car in every minute detail probably have a motor that has 200K on it that doesn't smoke, those that lease the cars and never follow the book, probably will never care, those that buy those leased cars will have oil eating pos and be hating it later on. Makes sense.
11-07-2004, 09:07 AM
#28
On the Bosch#13111 Vette rear O2's. On-line both were the same price (about $75) but AutoZone only has a 3 month warranty.
Advance has a year warranty. I received my 13111 two days after ordering on line. I put them in yesterday. The wires were real long which let me remove my extenders that I had to use when I put the LT's in. I also turned the 1133 and 1153 codes back on to see if they come back with the bosch O2's.
I will let everyone know if the codes return.
Bill
Advance has a year warranty. I received my 13111 two days after ordering on line. I put them in yesterday. The wires were real long which let me remove my extenders that I had to use when I put the LT's in. I also turned the 1133 and 1153 codes back on to see if they come back with the bosch O2's.
I will let everyone know if the codes return.
Bill
11-10-2004, 04:01 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by 2000WS6Vert
equandt, any update on this?
The next day, 3 minutes after start up, I threw another code.
11-10-2004, 04:18 PM
#31
Originally Posted by equandt
I installed the bosch 13111 and cleared the P1133 code from my car. I drove the car the rest of the day with no problems.
The next day, 3 minutes after start up, I threw another code.
The next day, 3 minutes after start up, I threw another code.
Bill
11-10-2004, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by HC02SS
I fixed my problem guys. Not what some of you want to do, but I just said to hell with the o2's. Running Closed loop all the time. Works great. 
11-11-2004, 05:25 AM
#35
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So far, not so good I swapped the sensors and it didnt help. 140 miles later the lights back on, but those 140 miles were awesome! Check my other posts for everything I've done to fix this issue. In case you havent noticed, you are not alone! Which in itself makes the situation a little better.
11-11-2004, 10:37 AM
#36
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
How are you swapping the rears in. They have a longer harness, but they also have a different plug. For a Vette you need a plug converter.
Have you thought about turning off the 02's at idle, and setting it with a WB.
Have you checked for leaks?
Have you thought about turning off the 02's at idle, and setting it with a WB.
Have you checked for leaks?
11-11-2004, 11:49 AM
#37
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Originally Posted by J-Rod
How are you swapping the rears in. They have a longer harness, but they also have a different plug. For a Vette you need a plug converter.
Have you thought about turning off the 02's at idle, and setting it with a WB.
Have you checked for leaks?
Have you thought about turning off the 02's at idle, and setting it with a WB.
Have you checked for leaks?
I did just get off the phone with SLP. SLP advised that the high flow cats have something to do with it. They advised that the 02 readings front to rear do not show the correct differential of readings because of the high flow cats. The exhaust gases do not have the back pressure they previously did and thus do not heat the front sensor properly because of the high flow cats (or in some cases no cats).
SLP advised of two solutions.
1. Install rear 02 sims to correct the rear reading to a "stock" level.
or
2. Delete / remove the P1133 / P1153 codes from the computer program.
I'm going to keep trying. Anybody got some O2 sims they want to loan me?
11-11-2004, 08:37 PM
#39
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I don't think the heaters are on all the time , only when the pcm turns them on for warm up.That is why the code returns with the vette sensors,they still cool down
on light throttle cruise.I tried eveything I could think of incuding denso sensors with no success. I finally turned the codes off.
on light throttle cruise.I tried eveything I could think of incuding denso sensors with no success. I finally turned the codes off.
11-11-2004, 11:16 PM
#40
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Exhaust leak
Once you get the slow response code the sensors are trash... I have a box full...
My air check valves were leaking just a little and it killed them one by one… what you need to do is find the leak and if in-fact it’s the air injection tubes then go to the dealer and buy six air to manifolds gaskets and put three on each side to insure you have no leaks. Use bolts with lock washers on them.
Also get two steel band type clamps to put on each header… buy RTV seal and put under the clamps to make sure you seal the header to y-pipe. Use a lot of RTV… let it dry over night and your exhaust should be sealed unless the headers gasket is leaking… did you use the stock gaskets or the gaskets that came with the headers?
Once you get the slow response code the sensors are trash... I have a box full...
My air check valves were leaking just a little and it killed them one by one… what you need to do is find the leak and if in-fact it’s the air injection tubes then go to the dealer and buy six air to manifolds gaskets and put three on each side to insure you have no leaks. Use bolts with lock washers on them.
Also get two steel band type clamps to put on each header… buy RTV seal and put under the clamps to make sure you seal the header to y-pipe. Use a lot of RTV… let it dry over night and your exhaust should be sealed unless the headers gasket is leaking… did you use the stock gaskets or the gaskets that came with the headers?