Problems with knock sensors, PLEASE HELP!
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Problems with knock sensors, PLEASE HELP! I just had a lot of parts installed on my 2002 WS6...ATI procharger, 6.0 liter ported heads, 222-228 114 cam, dynatech long tubes, hooker muffler, Moser 9- inch rear end, Exedy twin disk clutch, ect........... When I first got my head and cam installed, the shop gave me a base tune and noticed that the code PO327 for the front Knock sensor. They put brand new knock sensors and a wiring harness and there was a lot of corrosion on the old ones. Then when I took my car to get the Procharger and other p[arts installed, they noticed the same problem code again PO327. After they installed all my parts they again replaced both knock sensors, wiring harness and put silicone around the seals to prevent moisture seeping in. After only driving the car for 5 miles the service engine light came on again. SAME DAMN CODE!!! PO327 
Causing a 4 degree timing loss. What do I do now??? I know the knock sensors are still good. I'm not getting any knock. I want to solve this propblem so I can dyno tune my car and enjoy it! Please help me solve this problem.
Causing a 4 degree timing loss. What do I do now??? I know the knock sensors are still good. I'm not getting any knock. I want to solve this propblem so I can dyno tune my car and enjoy it! Please help me solve this problem. Thread Starter
Teching In
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Also when I'm gunning it in first gear and then switch to second I noticed a delay in power. RPM stays around 5000, for couple seconds then power kicks back in. Almost like the clutch was slipping. Could that be because of the PO327 Knock sensor problem. I really doubt it is the clutch.
Last edited by highspeed specialist; Oct 9, 2004 at 04:17 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Las Vegas, NV
I would think so. You're getting at least a constant 4* of knock retard, and probably more while accelerating.
If your knock sensors and wire are good, pretty much all that's left is the connector or the pcm.
If your knock sensors and wire are good, pretty much all that's left is the connector or the pcm.
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From: Las Vegas, NV
If the KS pin is corroded, like it was on my pcm (actually both KS pins snapped-off when I touched them), you'll need to replace the pcm.
One KS code: KS bad, pcm fried, or remotely, the wire could be partially crushed hosing just one KS.
Both KS codes: 2 bad knock sensors, crushed wire, fired pcm.
Another remote possibility is that the connector that the KS wire plugs into could be bad.
If you haven't done the GM KS TSB (making silicone dams around the sensors and removing the foam under the intake) you may have gotten water into one of the sensors shorting it out.
There might be other possibilities, but I've never heard of any others.
Good luck man, and post your results when you find the solution.
One KS code: KS bad, pcm fried, or remotely, the wire could be partially crushed hosing just one KS.
Both KS codes: 2 bad knock sensors, crushed wire, fired pcm.
Another remote possibility is that the connector that the KS wire plugs into could be bad.
If you haven't done the GM KS TSB (making silicone dams around the sensors and removing the foam under the intake) you may have gotten water into one of the sensors shorting it out.
There might be other possibilities, but I've never heard of any others.
Good luck man, and post your results when you find the solution.
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Princeton, IN
Was this car tuned with ls1edit? I remember reading some place that programming with ls1edit can sometimes give false codes?
Might want to do a search about ls1edit and knock codes
Might want to do a search about ls1edit and knock codes
Originally Posted by highspeed specialist
I just had a lot of parts installed on my 2002 WS6...ATI procharger, 6.0 liter ported heads, 222-228 114 cam, dynatech long tubes, hooker muffler, Moser 9- inch rear end, Exedy twin disk clutch, ect........... When I first got my head and cam installed, the shop gave me a base tune and noticed that the code PO327 for the front Knock sensor. They put brand new knock sensors and a wiring harness and there was a lot of corrosion on the old ones. Then when I took my car to get the Procharger and other p[arts installed, they noticed the same problem code again PO327. After they installed all my parts they again replaced both knock sensors, wiring harness and put silicone around the seals to prevent moisture seeping in. After only driving the car for 5 miles the service engine light came on again. SAME DAMN CODE!!! PO327 Causing a 4 degree timing loss. What do I do now??? I know the knock sensors are still good. I'm not getting any knock. I want to solve this propblem so I can dyno tune my car and enjoy it! Please help me solve this problem.
Causing a 4 degree timing loss. What do I do now??? I know the knock sensors are still good. I'm not getting any knock. I want to solve this propblem so I can dyno tune my car and enjoy it! Please help me solve this problem. Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 36
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Yes, my car was tuned with LS1edit but with a supercharger, heads, cam, ect...it has to be tuned. It is just strange that some people have problems with knock sensors and some dont, yet they all tune with LS1edit. HOPEFULLY soon I can solve this problem and then I will post an answer as to how I did it.
There could be a chance that the LS1edit tune has too much timing in it causing the KR.I have personally seen some real bad timing maps from certain tuners that literally have 8-10 degree's of too much timing across the WOT range.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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The only tune I got was a (base tune) and it is very conservative because I had to break in the new clutch. As soon as we figure out the problem with the Knock sensor then I will get a dyno tune. No false knock just the code P0327.
