Knock sensor short circuit?
#1
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Hartsdale, NY
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I installed a LS6 manifold and LS6 valley cover about a year ago. I blew a cam sensor recently so I removed the intake.
The knock sensor wires are "smushed" against the valley cover and it looks like they may have shorted out since the plastic wire covers are partially melted.
Are the knock sensor wires single strands of copper wire or are there multiple wires inside the single gray wires? I would like to cut them and splice in a new wire but I don;t want to cut them if the are multi-phased wires.
Also, how do you remove the wires from the knock sensors when you remove the valley cover. The last time I did this I had trouble. Is there a trick to getting the wire connection off the knock sensor?
The knock sensor wires are "smushed" against the valley cover and it looks like they may have shorted out since the plastic wire covers are partially melted.
Are the knock sensor wires single strands of copper wire or are there multiple wires inside the single gray wires? I would like to cut them and splice in a new wire but I don;t want to cut them if the are multi-phased wires.
Also, how do you remove the wires from the knock sensors when you remove the valley cover. The last time I did this I had trouble. Is there a trick to getting the wire connection off the knock sensor?
#2
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Hartsdale, NY
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think the LS6 intake has less room between the valley cover and the bottom of the plastic manifold; right?
So this issue should not be unique to me; right? Has anybody heard about this problem?
So this issue should not be unique to me; right? Has anybody heard about this problem?
#4
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
no special tool required, just use a pair of common pliers to gently squeeze the plug to release it, the top of the knock sensor is like a mushroom, the plug simply has small plastic ledges to retain the plug on the sensor.
#6
TECH Addict
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 2,428
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by robertbartsch
I think the LS6 intake has less room between the valley cover and the bottom of the plastic manifold; right?
So this issue should not be unique to me; right? Has anybody heard about this problem?
So this issue should not be unique to me; right? Has anybody heard about this problem?
The wire is cheap enough where I wouldn't mess around trying to repair/splice the old one, plus the KS wire connectors seem to get beat up removing them from the sensors. Once you button up your intake I don't think you'd want to go back and have to deal with again because of false economy. JMHO.
#7
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Hartsdale, NY
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Preditor:
OK great advice. Thanks
I guess you are suggesting that I should buy a new factory wire harness for the knock sensor from the dealer.
Where does the knock sensor wire set connect? Do the wires have a plug-in connection in back of the intake similar to the cam sensor, oil pressure switch, MAP sensors?
OK great advice. Thanks
I guess you are suggesting that I should buy a new factory wire harness for the knock sensor from the dealer.
Where does the knock sensor wire set connect? Do the wires have a plug-in connection in back of the intake similar to the cam sensor, oil pressure switch, MAP sensors?
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Addict
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 2,428
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by robertbartsch
Preditor:
OK great advice. Thanks
I guess you are suggesting that I should buy a new factory wire harness for the knock sensor from the dealer.
Where does the knock sensor wire set connect? Do the wires have a plug-in connection in back of the intake similar to the cam sensor, oil pressure switch, MAP sensors?
OK great advice. Thanks
I guess you are suggesting that I should buy a new factory wire harness for the knock sensor from the dealer.
Where does the knock sensor wire set connect? Do the wires have a plug-in connection in back of the intake similar to the cam sensor, oil pressure switch, MAP sensors?
There's a connector behind the intake that KS wire plugs into.
Also, do the GM KS TSB by making an RTV silcone dam around the sensors, and remove the square piece of foam under your intake (it wicks water to the knock sensors if you wash your engine, or if it just gets wet back there). If you do this right by getting a new wire, maybe palm sanding a little material from under the intake, doing the GM KS TSB, and being careful routing the new wire making sure it stays away from where the intake seats, you should be all set and never have to deal with a KS problem again.
Good luck!
#10
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Hartsdale, NY
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm in Japan for a month; when I get home later this week, I will finish the repair job.
My only issue is that my tech was dead so I know the tech sensor is bad; but I was blowing all sorts of other codes too. These included chassis codes
My only issue is that my tech was dead so I know the tech sensor is bad; but I was blowing all sorts of other codes too. These included chassis codes