zapp168

iTrader: (7)

My car used to idle perfectly!!! with the 224 cam. I added the turbo and had the car re-tuned, now it bucks horrible. Think timing was backed off too much at low RPM's?

Blown Interceptor

iTrader: (5)

TR 224 cam here. Cam installed for about two years, no surging.

Here is what my tables look like:

ICRAZY6

iTrader: (68)

I get the surging and bucking but my tuner said it will go away once I put the stall in.

Killer_Bluebird

iTrader: (23)

I did the set screw, Raf, VE, MAF, and Spark tune and have no surging and hardly any bucking to speak of even when driving 30mph on six gear @ 100rpms over my 850rpm idle. Most of the surging was eliminated by pulling timing out from the idle and low load cells. I then match my High/Low octane table to the Idle Spark tables (in Drive since I have an M6). Friend that drive in the car cannot believe the size of the cam compared to how well it drives. Except of course for the vicious lope at 850rpms.

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

This thread keeps going and going......

Bill

Bink

Yeah.....and Another_User hasn't really posted much since 2005.

FrankSS

iTrader: (18)

this is some good info....

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

I had no surging before I even got tuned. Not a huge cam (215/231, .641/.644, 118 LSA)... but I didn't set the screw or drill the plate, or anything.

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

i had some bucking/surging issues on my auto. it doesnt do it anymore, but for some damn reason it stalls out every once in awhile. like when i let my foot off the gas and cruise through a parking lot, it surged and died out. also, when i pull up in my driveway thats inclined, it stalls out sometimes when i get to the top..its pretty damn annoying... wondering if just drilling a bigger hole in the TB will take care of it.

2000Z28AUG

Generally the surging stops at normal operating temp which in my case is still the 210 mark.

Rede

iTrader: (2)

I get surging when backing up, driving slowly and lefting go of the petal quickly... annoying as hell because I'll go from say 1500-1800 and the rpms will drive to around 500 or lower, surge to 1800, drive, surge and stall.

Car was tuned locally by a friend with HP tuners but this is the first fbody he's tuned.

I don't like asking for a hand out, but if anyone has a moment or two I'd love to have someone else peek at my files for some feedback and tips...

I'm still having troubles at the top of 2nd and a bit after hitting 3rd.
Maybe something needs tweaked there too with shift point or it could be breaking up ?? , but it only shows up at the strip as I'm not really going WOT in second around town... at least not that I'll admit and not till the top of 2nd.

If anyone has a moment or two, plz pm me.

VDiddy

I have a 238/254 Cam and have tuned out all the bucking and surging. The more modified your car is, the tighter the VE and especially the MAF have to be. My MAF and VE are -1 to -2 (no higher) and it now runs perfectly in open loop, right at 14.6:1. If I enable fuel trims, the stock O2 sensors lean it out to 14.9:1 or 15:1. then it bucks. I just posted about this and Jimmyblue provided some excellent info about how to change your O2 switching voltages to get to where they read true stoich. I had to change mine to 680mv to get it to 14.6:1 and now it trims perfectly to Stoich. It's unbelievable how well it runs... trims are -1 to -2. NO MORE SURGING.

Dip Stick

iTrader: (1)

that might be my next venture.. cant find a tuner who I trust locally.. I was pretty bitter after spending all the money I did, only to have it buck and surge under 20 mph unless I ride my clutch.

Grrrr. Its really the only thing left that I need to somehow get rid of.

kmracer

iTrader: (1)

bump for a great thread...

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

This is some good info but as all can see it can take as little as a single adjustment or a combination of several parameters that need attention, The thing to do is trial and error, what works for one will not work for all, as Rick says most people will just basically insert someone else's complete data and still wonder why they still have issues. The idea is to take all of the info as a reference and start logging. One customer of mine, LS1, Big AFR's, Fast 90/90 cam in the 240-250 range also had the surging at idle only if you tipped the throttle, I had to increase the airflow tables, then go into the decay tables, re-set the T/B then all was fine. Remember to do one thing at a time so you know what was the outcome, and do small adjustments...Also give the PCM time to re-learn changes, some people will do a change, start the car and see that it still surging then immediately start making changes again, basically going in circles...