o2's going crazy
250mV for the driver side which is the stock o2
100mV for the new one.
that seems way wrong why is this. i used butt connectors and taped entire wire and even used covering over tape, because it is close to the header so i did not want the wires to melt. everything seemed ok, but obviously not.
250mV for the driver side which is the stock o2
100mV for the new one.
that seems way wrong why is this. i used butt connectors and taped entire wire and even used covering over tape, because it is close to the header so i did not want the wires to melt. everything seemed ok, but obviously not.

with a good quality solder and iron. If anyone can recommend
a flux or solder that will wet these wires I'd like to know
about it.
The sensor wires are in a very high impedance loop and some
resistance, even kOhms worth, is not going to have a big
effect. The heater wires are another story, 3-5A draw on
those and with any wire oxidation at all you might see poor
performance out of a crimp connector. But you have few
or no options.
With the engine not running, there is now flow of gas to
support the fuel cell reaction that makes the output
current / voltage. Judge the O2 by its "live" switching,
not its DC dead-air value. If you have headers the idle
operation may be somewhat slow and depressed but
you should at least see reapid, full scale switching at
elevated neutral RPM. Like this (taken off HPTuners log
but you get the idea):


