o2's going crazy
11-21-2004, 11:42 AM
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
o2's going crazy this is the scoop. i replaced the driver side o2 a few months back. i bought the bosch. i was using the o2 extensions due to my long tubes. to clean things up i spliced the wires using the o2 ext wires. well now after 2 or 3 months, my ses went off with a p0133. so i switched the o2's passenger to driver. now a few days later p0153. WTF? when i have the autotap on with the car on the acc position, not started, the o2's read
250mV for the driver side which is the stock o2
100mV for the new one.
that seems way wrong why is this. i used butt connectors and taped entire wire and even used covering over tape, because it is close to the header so i did not want the wires to melt. everything seemed ok, but obviously not.
250mV for the driver side which is the stock o2
100mV for the new one.
that seems way wrong why is this. i used butt connectors and taped entire wire and even used covering over tape, because it is close to the header so i did not want the wires to melt. everything seemed ok, but obviously not.
11-21-2004, 12:11 PM
#2
Originally Posted by bmfcamaro
this is the scoop. i replaced the driver side o2 a few months back. i bought the bosch. i was using the o2 extensions due to my long tubes. to clean things up i spliced the wires using the o2 ext wires. well now after 2 or 3 months, my ses went off with a p0133. so i switched the o2's passenger to driver. now a few days later p0153. WTF? when i have the autotap on with the car on the acc position, not started, the o2's read
250mV for the driver side which is the stock o2
100mV for the new one.
that seems way wrong why is this. i used butt connectors and taped entire wire and even used covering over tape, because it is close to the header so i did not want the wires to melt. everything seemed ok, but obviously not.
250mV for the driver side which is the stock o2
100mV for the new one.
that seems way wrong why is this. i used butt connectors and taped entire wire and even used covering over tape, because it is close to the header so i did not want the wires to melt. everything seemed ok, but obviously not.
11-21-2004, 12:25 PM
#3
TECH Addict
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,826
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree. But you may just need to suck it up and go to someplace that does repairs like that. Or suck it up and go to the dealership...I am sure they will want to replace that part of the harness...cha-ching!
11-21-2004, 12:31 PM
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Central Florida
Posts: 12,605
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
The sensor wires I have seen, will not take solder. I've tried,
with a good quality solder and iron. If anyone can recommend
a flux or solder that will wet these wires I'd like to know
about it.
The sensor wires are in a very high impedance loop and some
resistance, even kOhms worth, is not going to have a big
effect. The heater wires are another story, 3-5A draw on
those and with any wire oxidation at all you might see poor
performance out of a crimp connector. But you have few
or no options.
With the engine not running, there is now flow of gas to
support the fuel cell reaction that makes the output
current / voltage. Judge the O2 by its "live" switching,
not its DC dead-air value. If you have headers the idle
operation may be somewhat slow and depressed but
you should at least see reapid, full scale switching at
elevated neutral RPM. Like this (taken off HPTuners log
but you get the idea):
with a good quality solder and iron. If anyone can recommend
a flux or solder that will wet these wires I'd like to know
about it.
The sensor wires are in a very high impedance loop and some
resistance, even kOhms worth, is not going to have a big
effect. The heater wires are another story, 3-5A draw on
those and with any wire oxidation at all you might see poor
performance out of a crimp connector. But you have few
or no options.
With the engine not running, there is now flow of gas to
support the fuel cell reaction that makes the output
current / voltage. Judge the O2 by its "live" switching,
not its DC dead-air value. If you have headers the idle
operation may be somewhat slow and depressed but
you should at least see reapid, full scale switching at
elevated neutral RPM. Like this (taken off HPTuners log
but you get the idea):
11-23-2004, 11:55 PM
#6
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
a new friend. hes a gm master mechanic. he said that the o2 sensor wires have wire inside that oxygen flows on, but in the insulation. hard to explain. splicing into the wires is a big no no. use the o2 extensions and zip tie. splicing will limit the oxygen flow thus giving these slow response codes. oh yeah he said that the bosch o2 suck. they run at different voltage than the ac delcos. thank you guys for your help.
