wide band o2??
Originally Posted by tici
Is it that bad to put it in the Y-pipe, after the cats?
BEST LOCATION OF THE WB IS THE QUESTION??????
ANYBODY....
Bill
I have been thinking about taking off my front o2's and putting the wideband there and doing an open loop tune. This would just be temporary until i get my ve and maf tables right, then i would put the stock o2's back in. Any reason not to do this?
Originally Posted by KySilverado
Most I've read give a minimum distance from the exhaust ports to place them. Think the Plx unit was 24" .Primary concern is temperature. From memory I believe it stated over 850 degrees C will wipe out the 02. I've not seen any reference a maxiumum distance.
I've got the PLX 300 with bosch sensor. Welded a bung opposite from oem bung on right side. (less then 24") and no problems with heat. Log it with HPT, works great. I red a post that finding the resisitor to adapt to narrow band may be hard to find. Otherwise wireing was extremely easy.
Originally Posted by slow
a tailpipe sniffer is not accurate for part throttle and idle operation.
Ryan
Ryan
work for part throttle and idle afr reads.I have used it on my own car ,motorcycle with excellent results. The bosch sensor is heated so
placment is not as much an issue as with a narrowband sensor.Just do the free air calibration,let the sensor warm up and your good to go.That was the
reason I bought the lm1 over the others was its portabilty.I was able to correct part thottle fueling issues on my busa by sticking the sensor in the end of the pipe and logging at the offending area,no welding required.
z-ya, what is your experience using the tailpipe sniffer with cats and tuning wot on the road? This would be the easiest for me, but I'm not sure if the cats will modify the result... Some people say it doesn't really matter, some other the opposite.
Also the speed: 3rd gear at WOT = 140 mph, will the sniffer see fresh air because of the turbulence?
Also the speed: 3rd gear at WOT = 140 mph, will the sniffer see fresh air because of the turbulence?
I don,t use the tailpipe method with cats.Inovate says not to do it on their site so I don't. The fixture that they sell you to clamp in your tailpipe has a venturie in it for the sensor,the sensor scews in from the top and seals, the venturie feeds the sample to the sensor.
The Innovate product has a 0-1 V output signal for the PCM, so you can put the WB in the original narrow band hole, read the AF ratio and give a signal to the PCM for normal operation.
Are you using this system or is your WB a stand alone unit?
Are you using this system or is your WB a stand alone unit?
OK so here's three definite answers I can conclude:
Running no cats, and using LM-1, you CAN run out the tailpipe for idle, Part throttle, and WOT tuning.
Running cats, you definitely want the sensor before the cats
Using the LM-1 you can also run the O2 sensor from the stock Header/manifold bung, and use the 0-1v output to run the PCM
NOW:
for people with true duals (no cats), do you want to run the sensor on each tailpipe and use the leaner of the two? Or would it make more sense to install a bung in the X-pipe, thus getting an approximate average from both sides of the motor??? Where on TDs is the best place when using the LM-1???
Running no cats, and using LM-1, you CAN run out the tailpipe for idle, Part throttle, and WOT tuning.
Running cats, you definitely want the sensor before the cats
Using the LM-1 you can also run the O2 sensor from the stock Header/manifold bung, and use the 0-1v output to run the PCM
NOW:
for people with true duals (no cats), do you want to run the sensor on each tailpipe and use the leaner of the two? Or would it make more sense to install a bung in the X-pipe, thus getting an approximate average from both sides of the motor??? Where on TDs is the best place when using the LM-1???
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Originally Posted by txhorns281
OK so here's three definite answers I can conclude:
Running no cats, and using LM-1, you CAN run out the tailpipe for idle, Part throttle, and WOT tuning.
Running cats, you definitely want the sensor before the cats
Using the LM-1 you can also run the O2 sensor from the stock Header/manifold bung, and use the 0-1v output to run the PCM
NOW:
for people with true duals (no cats), do you want to run the sensor on each tailpipe and use the leaner of the two? Or would it make more sense to install a bung in the X-pipe, thus getting an approximate average from both sides of the motor??? Where on TDs is the best place when using the LM-1???
Running no cats, and using LM-1, you CAN run out the tailpipe for idle, Part throttle, and WOT tuning.
Running cats, you definitely want the sensor before the cats
Using the LM-1 you can also run the O2 sensor from the stock Header/manifold bung, and use the 0-1v output to run the PCM
NOW:
for people with true duals (no cats), do you want to run the sensor on each tailpipe and use the leaner of the two? Or would it make more sense to install a bung in the X-pipe, thus getting an approximate average from both sides of the motor??? Where on TDs is the best place when using the LM-1???
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 78
Likes: 2
From: So Cal.
Dont put it in the X-pipe. at certain RPM rages, there is little actual flow through the X pipe. Mostly it's the same gas being pushed back and forth like a ping-pong ball. Even worse in an H-pipe if anyone still uses those.
For best accuracy, you want the sensor before the cats; ideally near the collectors. The ideal spot is right before the cats. You have to watch the EGTs when getting real close to the headers. Generally, EGT is not so much a problem on non-turbo setups.
Use welder's crayons to find a good spot. These crayons melt at specific temperatures. They are available for temps up to 1500F.
Bosch specs 500 deg C max bung temperature for their WB sensors. That's 932 deg F. Mark the exhaust system from the headers to the cats with 800F( 427C) crayon. Then run the car hard. Pick a spot for the sensor where the crayon has not melted.
You can find the crayons at a welding supply shop, or by searching for "Tempilstik" which is the most common brand.
For best accuracy, you want the sensor before the cats; ideally near the collectors. The ideal spot is right before the cats. You have to watch the EGTs when getting real close to the headers. Generally, EGT is not so much a problem on non-turbo setups.
Use welder's crayons to find a good spot. These crayons melt at specific temperatures. They are available for temps up to 1500F.
Bosch specs 500 deg C max bung temperature for their WB sensors. That's 932 deg F. Mark the exhaust system from the headers to the cats with 800F( 427C) crayon. Then run the car hard. Pick a spot for the sensor where the crayon has not melted.
You can find the crayons at a welding supply shop, or by searching for "Tempilstik" which is the most common brand.
