Initial tune for homebuilt turbo system
08-05-2005, 03:08 PM
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Initial tune for homebuilt turbo system I have a turbo system I built. It’s basically a variation off the phamspeed budget one. It looks kind of ugly, but functional. The setup uses the stock intake manifolds, and has the turbo blowing thru the MAF into the engine.
My question is, where should I start in HPtuners for my turbo?
Here are my thoughts on this:
In the "Power Enrich Fuel Multiplier vs RPM" I should bump up all those numbers to command a 10.5:1 starting point. (That means I put a 4.2 in there, right?)
In the main spark tables, I’ll pull back 3* of timing over the entire width of the table from xx g/cyl and up... my only question there is, where would I really need to start pulling timing out at?
What else should I do to start with? The engine is all stock other then the turbo setup. The car is a 2002 SS.
My question is, where should I start in HPtuners for my turbo?
Here are my thoughts on this:
In the "Power Enrich Fuel Multiplier vs RPM" I should bump up all those numbers to command a 10.5:1 starting point. (That means I put a 4.2 in there, right?)
In the main spark tables, I’ll pull back 3* of timing over the entire width of the table from xx g/cyl and up... my only question there is, where would I really need to start pulling timing out at?
What else should I do to start with? The engine is all stock other then the turbo setup. The car is a 2002 SS.
08-05-2005, 04:10 PM
#2
1. start pulling timing in whatever cells you get on boost, and pull it back to like 10degs (for starters, you can try a bit more later)
2. PE is a MULTIPLIER, not adder, so 14.7/10.5=1.4, also whenever you get on boost
other than that, you might wanna consider going the permanent 2 or 3 bar SD route.
2. PE is a MULTIPLIER, not adder, so 14.7/10.5=1.4, also whenever you get on boost
other than that, you might wanna consider going the permanent 2 or 3 bar SD route.
08-05-2005, 04:15 PM
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If your PE table uses EQ ratios, then it should be 1.4 for a 10.5 AFR. EQ ratio is compared to stoich (STOICH/EQ=AFR).
I would guess you'd want to start pulling timing where you start making boost. Then, the more boost you make, the more timing you progressively pull.
As far as tuning goes, you'll want a WBO2 sensor. That way you could target an 11.5 AFR, which is what I believe is good for boosted cars. When 2.0 comes out, you may want to look into 2-bar support or you could just go with EFI Live. G/L
I would guess you'd want to start pulling timing where you start making boost. Then, the more boost you make, the more timing you progressively pull.
As far as tuning goes, you'll want a WBO2 sensor. That way you could target an 11.5 AFR, which is what I believe is good for boosted cars. When 2.0 comes out, you may want to look into 2-bar support or you could just go with EFI Live. G/L
08-05-2005, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RedHardSupra
1. start pulling timing in whatever cells you get on boost, and pull it back to like 10degs (for starters, you can try a bit more later)
2. PE is a MULTIPLIER, not adder, so 14.7/10.5=1.4, also whenever you get on boost
other than that, you might wanna consider going the permanent 2 or 3 bar SD route.
2. PE is a MULTIPLIER, not adder, so 14.7/10.5=1.4, also whenever you get on boost
other than that, you might wanna consider going the permanent 2 or 3 bar SD route.
08-08-2005, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by RedHardSupra
1. start pulling timing in whatever cells you get on boost, and pull it back to like 10degs (for starters, you can try a bit more later)
2. PE is a MULTIPLIER, not adder, so 14.7/10.5=1.4, also whenever you get on boost
other than that, you might wanna consider going the permanent 2 or 3 bar SD route.
2. PE is a MULTIPLIER, not adder, so 14.7/10.5=1.4, also whenever you get on boost
other than that, you might wanna consider going the permanent 2 or 3 bar SD route.
Thank you for the info.
I have not fired the car up yet. Everything is tacked in place, but I still have to take it all apart and have it finish welded. So how do I know where to start pulling timing from ahead of time? As a starting point isn’t 10* allot of timing to pull back? I am not questioning your judgment, I don’t know much about this stuff yet. There is another guy in the office that knows more about it then I do, but I would like to learn more on my own, be a little independent. Know what I mean?
Thanks on the PE thing btw, I went over everything in the sticky again, and I think I have a better grasp on it now.
As of right now, I am not going to try to exceed the MAF limits (around 600rwhp, right?) my fuel system is only a walbro 255 pump, and I plan to keep the atmosphere ref fuel regulator and stay with high-Z injectors... so I am limited to around there anyway. This car is an entertaining daily driver. It will have a boost controller, so I’ll be able to dial it down to when it’s raining, and just up the boost for fun on sunny days...
Are there any other tips?
08-10-2005, 07:32 AM
#7
hey, like i just said in the hall, i think you're going to have to mess with some DTC codes too... going over the MAP sensor range is going to keep it maxxed out.. i donno if it'll throw a code, but i assume it will eventually.
theres probly a couple other ones..
anyone on here know what they are?? what are the effects of disabling them?
theres probly a couple other ones..
anyone on here know what they are?? what are the effects of disabling them?
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08-10-2005, 11:01 AM
#8
10 degs is a good starting point. i doubt you want to exceed 14-16degs on stock internals with any decent amount of boost. that's just how boosted cars work, instead of getting extra torque from early spark, you get it from high effective compression (aka boost)
