And here a wrench.... I found that the the ground strap , which I think is usually on the tranny dipstick bracket/bolt, may not be attached. I noticed the dipstick was loose, thus no bolt holding it in. Memory serves me as that bolt being one that holds a ground strap. If thats the case, and the motor in not well , or even grounded, this could be the lil focker causeing some of this. We shall see if that helps or makes any difference. Of cousre Howard would have assumed the ground was there as I am the one that put that head on, so this wasted season could point back to me . I have hope its this simple and not as complex as the stalling mentioned above. Howard, thanks for reminding me to go back through all I touched.

EDIT: Grounds were in place.

 

Have you lost oil on that head with the loose/missing bolt? I found if the bolt's not there it can leak oil under pressure. And FWIW on my f-bod there is no grounding strap on that side, but there is one on the driver side.

 

J,

Is it a ground strap or a ground wire?? If it is a ground strap (typically braided) I would not get as excited. If its a ground wire from the PCM I would definately get excited. I still like Kevins theory of turning up the boost! Seems like we have some doubt with the turbos that needs to be addressed. They are a piece of the puzzle that was not in last years picture. Get the strap back on anyway. Typically the PCM ground is on the drivers side head.

Viper, what are you talking about loosing oil out of ground mounting spot on the back of the head???

 

I mean the bolt that holds the dipstick tube to the head, between the 2 exhaust pipes of the header/manifold.

In other words if the dipstick tube is 'loose' because the bolt is not tightened down, then oil can splatter out of the hole where the tube goes into the block near the oil pan.

 

I believe we are talking about the transmission dip stick not the oil.

 

Well, checking grounds...

 

J,

The "ground strap" is usually on the drivers side of the block, below the exhaust manifolds. Also down there are well as behind the drivers side head, are the two PCM grounds.

HT

 

HT,

Grounding is solid, strap on block on drivers side, strong ground from batter on passenger side of block. Looking for PCM grounds now....gonna fab exaust noe to run all gases through one turbo....holding breath.

Edit: cant see back of head so undure of grounds for pcm at this point...but that head has not been removed since she ran fine.

 

Okay, story continues as follows:

Its not the turbos stalling. I routed all exhaust through just on of the turbos (t3/t4) and car does the same thing. Its not really a rpm issue though, its a boost issue. It appears that when this thing cuts out/ breaks up is when it reaches 6-7 lbs of boost. Im running out of ideas.

I have to wonder, one of the only things I changed was the intake, what if there was a crack in the intake? Im really reaching now, but just a thought. Should matter cause I have solid boost pressure/manifold fpreeure.

It sounds ignition related.. any ways to test that... I can change plugs and wires, but this seems to be unlikely as these wires worked fine just before the kit was changed to rear mount..

 

At this point i wouldn't throw any idea out. What worked last year is not working this year so you shouldn't every aspect is in 100% working order. Besides changing plugs on this setup shouldn't be as bad as the CAS

I don't want to add to anymore trouble to this but, have you considered going piggy back with a megasquirt running fuel? I just put my MS together and it seems like a lot of people are having great success (namely Parish). That way you don't have to upgrade to the 2/3 bar map and you can still use EFI live for spark control.


Greg

 

Did you just call that guy a dip stick?

Greg

 

LOL!!

J, don't forget the car is still in SD and you only have a stock one bar MAP on the car! The PCM is relying on the MAP for load and you are maxing it out!. I want to reflash the PCM with a custom OS and configure the the new file for the 2 BAR map. When is the tranny getting fixed??

 

Car is in closed loop according to the scanner I put on it today...there wef maf codes and strange voltage issues. I'll leran more tomorrow when i can print the scan out.

 

SPELL CHECK!!!!!!!

If the MAF is still disconnected, you will get the 102 code which is probably the code shown. I did not set the MIL Enabler for that code to not report as at the time we where just trying some quick things out with the car. That MAF circuit has been an issue since day one. When you originally brought the car down, the MAF was not even showing a reading dispite the fact it was still hooked up. Do you have an extra MAF??

 

Yup, have extra maf...thats next...but I dont have IAT bung and my current maf is Zo6 which has it...and its 85mm instead of 78...so all kindsa lil adjustments are needed.

 

So the exhaust routing was changed and it spooled a little early, as expected, so the problem moved up in the RPM band? ie started at 3500 rpm rather than 4300?

If there is not enough spark boost can knock the spark out. What type of plugs (gap etc...). What type of wires & drivers?

 

Remember a car will pull to 7000 with anywhere from a 10:1 to a 14:1 AF. I don't think that's the problem.

Are you running pump gas or ???

 

Spark knocked out should show up directly as misfires.
Probably not a bad idea to do a pull with logging all
cylinders' current misfires numbers, see if any weak /
uneven firing can be found.

Is the remark about speed density meaning a MAFless
tune? The MAP sensor pegging out would sure be a
problem... I guess you could crutch it by the PE vs RPM
but that would be nasty duct tape action. Maybe a
little more explanation about this?

 

Plugs are tr-6 gapped at .032
Wires are Moroso
Coils are stock

Remember all worked fine until I changed head gasket and intake and moved turbos from front to rear. Unless something happened at the same time that I blew the head gasket that im not seeing.

Car did spool a little quicker when ducted through 1 turbo, but issue seem to be more boost related than rpm... at 1/2 throttle it stumbles a lil then takes off hard (as load decreases). Can surely feel boost, but If I mat it, it just coughts. I RAN SCANNER and took snap shot during the stumbles...and NO MISFIRES...ZERO. So strange. Did it three times with a scanner from a GM tach..and No misfires or knock... There was some odd voltage numbers, all maf related. The maf isnt reading it seems. Again, unless maf dies when gasket blew it shouldnt be the maf. It ran great last year with the 1 bar map, and same tune.,,, of ousre we have changed tune since, but no matter what we do, iot act the same !!!!!! When turbo charge pipe is disconnected from intake, car does not seem to stumble at all.
Gonna snap soon

 

Oh yeah, I pulled on plug, front passenger...and its white /ashy. But dyno A/R rod says Im fat
The A/R reading is taken from just after the turbo, I mean within inches...wonder how accurate it is there.