Tuning and loggin my car for the last year or so between different seasons and different weather my AFR varies about 1-2% pretty stable if you ask me

 

and anyways back to cool 2.0 features....
somebody else on here sent me a pm showing that his vehicle has a value for changing the tach output resolution so you can use an aftermarket tach on vehicles....

now that kicks ***...

 

So essentially, you do agree that the O2 sensors don't work as well in long tubes, and I still can't find any good proof that the "higher wattage" heaters are anything more than someone's imagination.

So why do you believe the LTFTs are correct?

 

unfortunately not everybody is that lucky...and usually its altitude(and specifically the DA) that plays the most havvock with the #'s

 

Cant say to much for altitude but i can speak for the DA (MD see -1500-+3000) and still i dont see to much variance

 

they dont work for everybody...
lots of factors play into what the o2 are really getting...hell..even 1cm in placement can make a difference...a small unseen leak...

and yes I agree that certain o2's dont work as well in general..and it transfers to longtubes...

My own car proved it to me...
stock o2's in my JEt Hot tubes....BAD..
13111's in teh tubes and all of teh sudden it came to life..and my 13111's in teh jet hot location is very close to what my wideband says..not perfect..but real close

 

I go by my wideband. At idle with large cams you can't go by trims alone, thats when they become inaccurate.

 

I completely agree with that....
too much overlap and too much blowby can easily get them inaccurate

 

On the 3D contour map of say, a ve table, can you make adjustments by clicking a point on the graph and dragging it rather than just punching in numbers and watching the change?

Also, it says you get 2 vehicle types when you order a cable. If you only have 1 at the time of order (unless you guys add support for 98 Sierra 5.7s ) can you leave the other type open for later use? And if so, would that require sending the cable back or would it just lock to the first vehicle type you do thats different?

 

Yes, you can click a point and it'll highlight that area in the table display, then as you drag your mouse the value changes (that works on their 1.7 software also, only in 1.7 the graph and table displays are different tabs, now you can view them seperate or snap the graph next to or on top of the table display to view both at once)

 

OK... I am going to revisit this...


But first I am buying a new set O2 sensors. I run rear type (145 watt?) in my front bungs per LG's suggestion, BUT I still get slow switching efficiency errors. I have heard the DENSOs are really good???

 

Pretty good thread about this in progress between the Densos vs the 13111's...it's made for some good conversation and presenting viewpoints on their experiences with both...it really hasn't solved any of my questions, as i was the original poster, but it's kind of made me feel better about both of them in general, and more confident that a good part of my tune problems lie in my stock sensors. Basically either one is going to kick the stocker's ***......here's the original thread:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/368468-o2-sensor-denso-bosch.html

 

dont kill me, but i just scrolled thorugh the last 2 pages and didnt see it....have we gotten release date yet?? Oh and thanks alot Keith, i just got my tuners today !! :yay:

 

no set release date yet.

 

145 watt o2's? I believe the vette rears are around 60-68 watts with stockers being 30.