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MAF Translator settings: what should they be?

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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 10:48 PM
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Default MAF Translator settings: what should they be?

I have the MAF Translator and I dont know which settings would benefit my vehicle the most. All of you can read in my sig the mods I have on my car.

Can someone tell me which settings would provide the most power at the best A/F ratio?

Thanks
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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 10:57 PM
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I would sell the MAF Translator and get a real tune. The MAFT fools the computer and is a blanket change. With tuning software, you can make specific changes to areas in the airflow table. I live in Richmond and I can use my HP Tuners on your car. I live in Richmond and would be able to help out. Plus, I can delete and codes that you want as well.
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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 11:14 PM
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without a scanner... adjust it so the car runs best in the 1/4 mile.... the MAFT is a temp fix... if you run too rich WOT then you lean WOT out...


there is no "best setting" ... it depends on how your car is running.....
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by horist
without a scanner... adjust it so the car runs best in the 1/4 mile.... the MAFT is a temp fix... if you run too rich WOT then you lean WOT out...


there is no "best setting" ... it depends on how your car is running.....

Horist?....adjust it so the car runs best in the 1/4 mile?....I'm soo glad you told me that? What I was looking to do was spend about $100 to make my car slower. Thanks for that great tech advice.

P.S. The reason I started this thread if for someone to tell me which settings are the "best settings" for my a/f ratio. and YES there are "best settings"
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 98formulaMAH
Horist?....adjust it so the car runs best in the 1/4 mile?....I'm soo glad you told me that? What I was looking to do was spend about $100 to make my car slower. Thanks for that great tech advice.

P.S. The reason I started this thread if for someone to tell me which settings are the "best settings" for my a/f ratio. and YES there are "best settings"

You might want to rethink talking **** to Horist. He has helped many on here and he didn't mean it to be a smart *** I'm sure.

You're right there are best settings.......but those are found by adjusting and then checking the performance.....not pulling some number out of your ***. I'm sure this is what Horist was getting at.

Every car reacts differently to mods. Without a scan tool or timeslips you will have no idea where those "best settings" are. Unless your butt meter is very well calibrated.

Just for future referance......you will get a lot more help if you try not to be a smart *** to those trying to help you.
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 08:12 AM
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With the MAFT, it will taking some logging to find out how the car is running prior to making adjustments. When I had my MAFT, the base was +2 and the WOT was +2. The base is a blanket change to the MAF Table. So, it can make you rich in some areas and lean in others. Since you decreened the MAF, that will skew the table a little. When using tuning software, you can derive a different MAF Table with the appropriate curve. The MAFT was a good idea many years ago when tuning software, like LS1 Edit, was just coming out.
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 10:32 AM
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Sorry didn't mean to come off as a smart ***.. was tired, guess it didn't come out the way I was thinking it.

I meant... the best settings are unique to your car... w/out a scanner to be able to see about how rich (based on Narrowband O2s, which aren't very accurate but they are a starting point) your best bet to find the best settings is to go to a track and try small changes for a few runs at a time and see if the MPH goes up
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 11:27 AM
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ok thanks for the help everyone.

I got the best advice from Blacker, who convinced me i need to throw away my MAFT and my HPP3 and just get HP Tuners.

But back to the thread, I think what I was really looking for is an educated estimate of my current A/F ratio? Then should it go more lean or more rich.

Right now, I think I'm running a bit lean with my current mods.
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 02:01 PM
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With the Direct Flow Lid and descreening the MAF, I needed to add 10%, or +2, using the MAFT. Also, since you have the HPP3, HP Tuners will be much better as I decribed in the PM. The HPP3 is really basic and you have to accept Hypertech's parameters. Withy HP Tuners, you get the editor and scanner. Not bad for $500 and if you find someone else to go in with you, that is only $250.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 08:27 PM
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i know the post is old but how much does a translator cost?i descreen and ported my maf on my 98 ss and it feels it bit slower right now.also wat else can i use besides the translator?can a dyno tune fix it?because i have a local shop that dyno tunes using hptuners they charge 450 for an hour of tuning but if it doesnt take that long they charge a bit cheaper.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 98formulaMAH
ok thanks for the help everyone.

I got the best advice from Blacker, who convinced me i need to throw away my MAFT and my HPP3 and just get HP Tuners.

But back to the thread, I think what I was really looking for is an educated estimate of my current A/F ratio? Then should it go more lean or more rich.

Right now, I think I'm running a bit lean with my current mods.

Horist nailed it from the beginning. He's not being a smartass, he's very knowledgeable in the ls1 tuning world.

There's really no way to guess somebody's air fuel ratio w/o at least scanning it as every car is unique. Most cars go lean with mods at part throttle, others go pig rich.
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