jimmy 2 Times

iTrader: (18)

okay, so i recently installed a new air lid (the old one was cracked) ever since then, i have set off a code 0102. I have read the description on gearchatter.com. The only reasonable thing i could think of is a vaccum leak after the MAF. But i dont see anywhere where it could be. Im not a tuner by any means. I was wondering if you guys could suggest how to fix this.

I have read the description, but in order to trouble shoot, you need to understand it, which i am a bit confused over some things, and i dont have the schematics that it talks about. could some one help me with some insight on my problem

here is the DTC troulbe shoot for your convience
http://gearchatter.com/viewtopic9176...dfd2b41b53e827

thanks so much for the help
Jimmy

jimmy 2 Times

iTrader: (18)

i did some more research, and i checked the fuses, they are good, the 02's are brand new, and not touching anything. i have rehooked up the lid, maf and bellows. and i cleaned the maf with alcohol. and still the p0102.

what gives here?

WS6 RULES

Did you have the MAF disconnected and turn on the ingition? That will set a DTC. How is it running? If everything is ok it should reset itself after a few driving cycles. Or you can pull the PCM fuse and reset everything youself, or disconnect the battery and turn the key on for about a minute. If you think you have a vacume leak you can use a spray can of carbutator cleaner. Just spray short bursts in areas where you think the leak might be at idle. If the engine speeds up you found it. Good luck.

jimmy 2 Times

iTrader: (18)

so to check for a leak, just spray car cleaner around the outside of the MAF, bellow, and TB? and if the engine revs faster than idle, that is where the leak is?

also, i have already reset the computer, reinstalled the lid, and i have never disconnected the maf with the ignition on.

I am begining to think that it is not a vacum leak, but will try it tommorrow. Do you have any other suggestions?

BTW, all the fuses were good, except for the air pump (blown) this has been edited out, and all pieces over 2 years ago. should i try replacing that?

thanks

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Pull the MAF connector, inspect the pins on both
sides for push-out or bent, and reseat. If you have
a DMM that reads frequency then looking at that,
at idle, ought to show you a 2-3kHz range of output.
P0102 indicates totally dead, from what I've measured
even still air gives higher output freq than the fail
limit.

jimmy 2 Times

iTrader: (18)

connections are fine. I do have a DMM. where/what wires would i test? and i do have delphi 85mm maf (which was calibrated, by rapid when he tuned my car 2 years ago)

jimmy 2 Times

iTrader: (18)

where can i find the wiring schematic, so i can test the resistance? or does someone know the colors off hand?

jimmy 2 Times

iTrader: (18)

checked with carb cleaner, found no leaks. where do i go from here?

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

do you have access to another MAF? Borrow one off a buddies car and see if the code clears.

jimmy 2 Times

iTrader: (18)

i only have a 85mm lid. do you think that i could just run it (not driving) with out the lid and filter on to see if it will clear the code? i wouldn't be driving like that so i dont see the harm. do you think that will work?

thanks again

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

I don't think you'd even have to drive it.

If you want to try a new (different) MAF, you can pick one up on ebay for <$30 shipped.

jimmy 2 Times

iTrader: (18)

i still have my stocker, i will try that