T/A rocker

Well I was downloading from LS1Edit programmer back to the PCM, and after that, the car won't start.
I tried doing the PCM reset (pulling PCM IGN. and PCM batt. fuses) and all that.
Then tried flashing the PCM again, this time with a the file for the previous tune, which was just in ther before. Nothing . Engine turns but will not start.

ANYTHING I CAN TRY OR AM I SCREWED ??

Please help!?

Oh, another question: where the heck can I get one for a '98 ??
GM partdirect lists one for 99-02, 96-97, and 94-95. But NOT 1998.
Plesae don't tell me you can't even order one!!

boondiggys

iTrader: (165)

i dont think the engine would roll at all , but theres many many many circuits in there...maybe one was shorted out and not another....are you using a ciggarette lighter to power the compouter? maybe a fuse therer is blown

dlandsvZ28

Send it to Wait4Me if it is truly fried. You can get his email address on EFILive forum. He also is a reseller for EFIlive. Trade in your LSEdit for EFIlive or HP Tuners.

EFILive support for 98's is real close now.

T/A rocker

Not sure what you're saying, can Wait4Me fix it, or hopefully re-flash it, or what?
Been planning on getting EfIlive or HPtuners, but have not had the bux.
Should have done it before I hosed my PCM!

dlandsvZ28

Quote from EFILIVE

There are two ways to reflash the PCM:
1. Reflash the entire flash memory including operating system and calibrations.
2. Reflash only the calibrations.

Option 1 has the potential to render a PCM inoperable and non-reflashable, that is what people call "fried". There is nothing physically wrong with the PCM, it's just that the "program" inside the PCM is either non-functional and/or no longer communicating with any off-board reflash tools.
The only way to recover the PCM in this situation is to desolder the flash chip, program it using a chip programmer and resolder the flash chip to the PCM. Not something the average DIY tuner is prepared to do.

Option 2 does not alter the PCM's operating system (program code), so no matter how many times this type of reflash fails, the PCM will still continue to communicate with the off-board reflash tool. That means, the off-board reflash tool can restart the flash (as many times as is necessary) until a successful reflash is completed. I guess one could call this recovery.

Call Jesse...I am sure he can fix it.

A used PCM will cost you about $120. Then another $100 to reflash back to stock by a GM dealer and they probably won't flash it out of the car which means you will need to tow it (about $85.00).

Jesse can probably fix you up much cheaper than that.

T/A rocker

Jesse, is he with LS1edit?
Do you have a phone number for him?

cook_dw

iTrader: (16)

I had a similar thing happen to me but it was my laptop battery that died during the upload. Anyways I just took the car up to a GM dealer (hell I took mine to the Saturn dealership because they gave me the best price 1/2 hr labor time) to have them flash the ecu. After that I uploaded my current tune and away I went.

horist

Jesse = wait4me

Shoot him an email and he'll probably be able to help you out, either by fixing the PCM or selling you a new one as stated...

T/A rocker

Thanks, horist

I am trying to get his email on that forum, but I had to register first, and have not gotten the email back from the forum yet.
Do you think it would do any good to take to the dealer and have them reflash the PCM?
I hate to do that and it not fix it, especially since I would have to tow it there.
I probably should just hold off doing anything 'till I can contach Jesse and see what he says.

kbracing96

iTrader: (25)

Wait4Me Performance (Jesse Bubb) is a sponsor on the truck site here, His email and number are posted there. Give him a call, and he will hook you up. He kind of hard to get a hold of, so be persistent!

robertbartsch

Tow it to a GM dealer and do not say anything about you messing with the PCM using LS1EDit. My 99 busted recently and it was covered under warranty.... just play dumb.

...you tried to start the car and it was dead. That is all you know.

T/A rocker

Well, I got in touch with Jesse,
he said it should be easy to fix, and he would most likely do it for no charge!
Dealer wanted $80.00 to reflash PCM, plus would not do it out of the car, so I would have had a tow bill as well. Jesse da man !

dummer

UPDATE:
got the PCM back from Jesse, he said it should work now, all checks Okay on his bench, etc.
Put it back in the car, connected the battery back up, and engine still turns but car will NOT start!!
Now what the hell ???
I just don't know what to do, or for sure if my PCM is even the problem now.
I pulled a plug and left it connected to the coil pack, and grouded the threads. Tuned the engine and i am getting spark. I pushed in the schrader valve on the fuel rail, and gas squirted out, so i am getting fuel. Whether or not the injectors are squirting, I don't know.
I copied the .PCM file that i last flashed the PCM with, from my laptop into a jump drive, then copied it onto my desktop PC, went into LS1prog (the PCM flashing program of LS1Edit) and selected "program PCM" the "open file" and that file gave me a checksum error. Since this was the last file i flashed the PCM with, I still think I must have hosed the PCM, but I need to be sure.
If I do need to replace it, where do I get one for a '98, and do i still have to go to the dealer and have it flashed to my VIN, etc. ???
Plesae help me out guys!!!

LSRacing

iTrader: (5)

I recently had the same problem. I have searched everywhere to find a PCM and only came up with one place. Call Troy Brown . Tell him jamy sent you and that you have a 98. He can help you. I had mine the next business day. I did pay for overnight shipping. Put it in the car and it fired right up. No need to have it programed by the dealer.

Jamy

horist

if Jesse said the PCM checked out.. then I'm guessing it's a problem somewhere else.... check EVERY fuse ..

almost sounds like a VATS issue... if you can put a new tune on the car... disable VATS

if you need another PCM contact Jesse again... he sells them for the fairest price I've seen

dummer

What exactly is VATS ??
Ok in my editer I see, under vehicle anti-theft: three selections: PWM VATS/ NO VATS / SeRIAL DATA VATS
Right now it's set to PWM VATS
what the hell is VATS ???

LS1_boostdscoob

im gonna take a guess and say that if its on PWM vats(Vehicle Anti Theft System= VATS)
that it is password managed .. PWM... put it on no vats and then see if you get something...
thats should get rid of the igntion cut off the vats is activating when your trying to start it..

dlandsvZ28

Not disagreeing that no start might be related to VATS but it reads in a previous post that he is getting spark and gas and obviously air.

So what does VATS do to keep the car from starting if all three of the above are occurring when the motor turns over?

If VATS is disabled, does that allow me to start the car with a key without the wire in the key?

How much gas does it take to really flood these engines if the first time it got really flooded (bad pcm) and now each time it just floods more when trying to start?

dummer

Ok, did some searching, and found out a lot about VATS. I copied this from another post:
if the VATS fails and it is seen by the BCM, then it must be overridden. Using multimeter to determine ohms on key, set adjustable resistor to said ohms, splice in the BCM end of the white sheathed wires coming from under the steering column, the BCM is located behind the radio area. Use one side of each of the BCM to VATS wire on each side of the adjustable pot. Once connected and set, you will be able to start the car.
5) once running if you tune the VATS to "none", then you can unhook the adj pot, and not worry about any more issues, although the Sec Lt will remain on whenever the ignition is on. If you dont tune out the VATS, you will have to hook the pot up each time you start your car.

Now, according to this, it sounds like the engine has to be tricked into starting before you can then use you programmer to disable VATS ??
When I first turn the key to "run" position, the security light comes on but then it fades after a few seconds and does not light when I crank the engine, so maybe it's not VATS. But it sure sounds like the VATS could be it. Sure would explain a lot of things.

dlandsvZ28

Probably not this...too simple but give it a try.

"Wipe off and clean the key"

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=215645