Since I cant get the car to idle properly with the B1 and converter, Im going to get the custom programming done. Im hoping with the tuning to pick up a few rwhp also.My question for the folks with similiar packages as mine are.....what all should I have changed and where should I have the shift points set and rev limiter? Are there any new tricks in the programming I need to ask for? I read something about tieing in the trans line pressure with the TPS ? Anyone had this done and should I do this. Since installing the B1 Ive noticed the converter will not always stay locked up.Can Ed do anything about that? No problem with the locking up before the cam.Im going to eliminate the air pump,egr,back 02 codes. Anything else? Id just like to get the tuning done right the fist time and Im trying to eliminate any need for more tuning. Any help or suggestions are welcome.No flaming Ed please,I heard most the horror stories of the past considering tuning. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0"> Thanks Don

 

Did you autotap? I bet the IAC count is still way to high.

 

I used autotap as a reference. When I first started, the pintle pos. was in the 110-120 ranges, after I did some drilling I got them down to 20 to 30,Idled ok for a minute or so and then the pcm starts searching for the correct idle and they will drop to almost zero and sometimes itll even stall in gear.I could be doing something wrong but I thought I was suppose to drill the TB hole larger until I got about 20-30 pintle position. I did this and raised the idle screw up to around 900 in park,and it still wont idle correctly.Am I doing something wrong?If I could get this thing to idle better the tuning wouldnt be so impoprtant. Off idle it runs great

[ December 10, 2001: Message edited by: pontiaddict ]</p>

 

you want IAC counts of 35-40 dont you?
That was my impression anyways...
I am going to do some tuning with my IAC as well. I will let you know how it goes. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
Cheers,
Chris

 

I've had great luck w/ EW's tuning. He hit everything perfectly on the first try. I'll let you know up front that you'll have to run a stock MAF with his tuning. I have been told that you can get a set of ported MAF ends from him that he can accurately tune into the programming for the proper a/f ratio. You might ask him about it.
I had Ed tie my line pressure in with the TPS, and it works great. I highly recommend it for any A4 that is getting tuning anyways. It will help extend the life of the clutches. He can also help you on the lock/unlock issues you're now having w/ the converter.
Here's what I would have him do:
*delete torque management
*tie in trans line pressure w/ TPS
*raise idle (be sure to specify idle in park AND drive)
*delete misfire code
*delete rear O2's
*delete maxed out MAF code
*let him know about the converter lock up problem
*program for the desired fan settings
*possible addition of ignition timing at WOT

As for shift points, I'd highly recommend putting the car on the dyno before you ask for whatever shift points you want. You need to see where the engine is making its power. I did this, and mine carried peak power out to 6,200 RPM. This is where I had Ed set my shift points, and they're dead-on. This will allow you to get it right the first time.
Nothing else comes to mind, but I also tend to forget stuff from time to time. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0"> He set converter lockup at 30 MPH with my tuning for normal driving. Also, I'd tell him where the car is idling now in park and gear since you've drilled out the TB hole and adjusted the set screw. If you tell him to target an idle of 900 w/ your bigger hole and different screw setting, you could end up with an idle at 1,200+. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" /> It also wouldn't hurt if you could get some ATap data to send to him so he can see where everything sits now. I didn't do this and he got mine right, but I also have a stock engine.

 

Chris
30 is the number that I was told.when I had them at 30-40 it didnt make much of a difference. Let me know how it turns out.

Good info Trevor I guess I should give Ed a call and ask him what to send to make the tuning easier for him. I have atap and can log whatever he needs. I also have a dyno sheet with wideban readings. 30 mph isnt too low for the converter to lockup? Mine seems to be around 40 ish during normal driving.

 

[quote]Originally posted by pontiaddict:
<strong>
Good info Trevor I guess I should give Ed a call and ask him what to send to make the tuning easier for him. I have atap and can log whatever he needs. I also have a dyno sheet with wideban readings. 30 mph isnt too low for the converter to lockup? Mine seems to be around 40 ish during normal driving.</strong><hr></blockquote>
A wideband O2 reading would be GREAT in helping to tune throughout the RPM band. As for lockup, I kind of like it at 30 MPH. It's not too low for me, and it'll help with gas mileage around town if you can keep your foot out of it. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">

 

I would also suggest:

>>>> Delete P0300 multiple misfire code
>>>> Delete P0751 1-2 shift solenoid code

I have my lock-up set for 40 mph for 3rd and 4th gear. In 4th gear it locks at low rpm if I'm loafing in traffic and if I'm in 3rd I can still get some power. No point in driving on a B1 at 1200 - 1400 rpm. I have 3.73s; with 3.23s I would consider having lock-up raised to 45 mph.

Ed likes to lock up converters in 3rd gear at WOT. I wouldn't let him do it below 6000 rpm unless your converter is really inefficent. Its hard on the converter and knocks the cam out of peak HP.

 

Have you tried to crack the TB blade a bit, AND maybe drill out the idle air hole?

You need more air in at idle.

Trevor D is your man for that tranny stuff you are asking about.

 

PSJ
Yes I tried raising the idle a bit.Tried drilling to get the IAC counts down.Ive tried the BBK and stock TB. The car will idle (roughly) once it warms up ,but it seems its always searching for the correct idle.When I had the B1 in before the a4 swap the car idled perfectly without any changes. Im thinking the lighter Vig 3600 ASP pullies and lower idle of the A4 is just too much for the PCM to adjust for.

 

Ragtop, what is the P0751 code caused by? I've never gotten it, but I'm having a core PCM tuned for my car this week and I'm wondering if I should have this removed anyway?

 

Shift solenoid stuck open. Seems to happen with some of the 9" converters.