I have ARE S2 heads and a cam, SVO 30#, and I use the stock 99 PCM program. I use the MAFT to try to tune the AF, and I've set it at the leanest, but I'm still running too rich. How rich, I don't know since I use autotap, not a wideband o2 on a dyno. But the O2 numbers are high enough that I know when I get on a wideband, I will be running rich.

What are my options? Am I going to need to fork out $550 for LS1 Edit? Or is there something else I can do? What are my options for going through a tuner? I know Ed Wright and Superchips have done quite a few cars, how much do they charge and is it worth it? Thanks!

 

Time to buy edit.

Good news is that you can sell the MAFT, O2 simms, HPP3 etc. so you will be out-of-pocket less than $550. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

You runnin' a ported MAF? I really hogged mine out and it came real close to balancing out the extra fuel from the 30#'s. Fine tuning with LS1Edit did the rest.

 

You should be able to get the tune down. Go with a larger MAF. Also, only avg fuel cells 1-19 for LTFT's.

What are your LTFT's and WOT O2's?

 

Yes, I already have a ported MAF. That would have been a good idea though.

My LTFTs are around -3 or so, and at WOT, my O2s are reading about 0.93-0.94. No wideband info yet, but I'm pretty sure it won't be around 12.8 or so.

I'm just alittle hesitant to get the LS1 Edit because of the steep learning curve. Is there a good FAQ on LS1 Edit yet? Can't seem to find one.

Thanks!

<small>[ July 08, 2002, 04:01 AM: Message edited by: akw408 ]</small>

 

Just a suggestion here. On my MAFT there was a switch that would change the setting, in addition to the two pots for tuning. When I put it in, I changed the switch, and when I started the car with both pots at zero, the car was rocking around like crazy. I turned Autotap on and found the LTFT to be at 22, I then switched the switch back and the car idled like a baby again, and the LTFT's were down in the +4 range, and I started my tuning there.
Other than what happened to me, I would go with the recommendations made by others, bite the bullet and order the LS1edit... it is well worth the money.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Jadeeglide1550:
<strong>Just a suggestion here. On my MAFT there was a switch that would change the setting, in addition to the two pots for tuning. When I put it in, I changed the switch, and when I started the car with both pots at zero, the car was rocking around like crazy. I turned Autotap on and found the LTFT to be at 22, I then switched the switch back and the car idled like a baby again, and the LTFT's were down in the +4 range, and I started my tuning there.
Other than what happened to me, I would go with the recommendations made by others, bite the bullet and order the LS1edit... it is well worth the money.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yeah, I'm pretty sure the MAFT is set properly on my car. It runs fine.

I'm thinking I'll dyno first, see how off I am and then get people's opinions on if I should get the LS1Edit. See how crazy my AF curve is. How difficult is it to tune the AF curve flat?

 

Assuming you have an M6, you might want to port the MAF further to lean out the equation. I ported mine several times to get it to match up with the SVO 30#'s.