idle and hp timing tuning
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 39
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From: Corpus Christi TX
idle and hp timing tuning Im thinkin about advancing my timing to idle at 28 degs and steppin up from there. is this an aggressive stance and will i detonate any cylinders doin this or am i thinkin on the right path. i have an slp intake maf 80mm tb full exhaust and iridium plugs moroso wires and msd coil packs. could someone give me some advice.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 512
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From: Conway, AR
You want to make sure you are getting 28, and not just commanding that. Your adders will kick in (AFR, ECT, IAT, EGR) and alter your commanded timing if you have those enabled. If you are running on 93 octane, 28 seems to be what most people are gunning for, these motors like timing in that range.
Chris
Chris
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,946
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by LS1INSIDE
not to hijack the thread but, by actually getting 28*, how do you go about checking that? just logging the car? is that what you are saying?
I have much more timing than that, at idle in drive.
More spark makes the idle loop more crisp and is one
element to improve surging.
There are the main spark tables, and there are the idle
spark tables. Mine are not really too consistent but I
think they should be. You don't want a huge step from
one mode (idle park, idle drive, main) to another. The
cylinder air axis should take care of the load aspect.
Some day I'll go and try to make them more "seamless".
Probably the best way to go is, get a baseline idea of
your idle misfires baseline and then start tweaking up
spark until you see these start to increase. The first
thing to go will be on the lean swing of the proportional
fuel dithering, which is where the "natural" engine shake
at idle comes from I'm pretty convinced.
More spark makes the idle loop more crisp and is one
element to improve surging.
There are the main spark tables, and there are the idle
spark tables. Mine are not really too consistent but I
think they should be. You don't want a huge step from
one mode (idle park, idle drive, main) to another. The
cylinder air axis should take care of the load aspect.
Some day I'll go and try to make them more "seamless".
Probably the best way to go is, get a baseline idea of
your idle misfires baseline and then start tweaking up
spark until you see these start to increase. The first
thing to go will be on the lean swing of the proportional
fuel dithering, which is where the "natural" engine shake
at idle comes from I'm pretty convinced.
