Where to find 4.2 rwhp???
Or, you could go Rice and do the following
1) Remove air filter
2) Over-inflate your tires
3) Dyno with smaller tires
4) Go on a colder day
5) Find a different dyno
I'm sure you'll do the right thing though and get a cutout <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
I'd pick up a spare 98 TB and port and polish it and I'm sure you'll hit the number. I know of a few around town... Or you can pay someone to port it for you.
Maybe borrow a MAF T for a pull or two and run it -1 or -2 WOT for 13:1 AF on the dyno.
What air filter are you using?
Stock MAF?
<strong>3) Dyno with smaller tires
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Actually, you would want a lighter, taller tire. Shorter tires increase the gearing effect. Taller will cut down the gear some. Its well known that numerically smaller rear end gears make more HP on the dyno. Same effect that overinflating tires have. A lighter tire / wheel combo will be easier to turn, increasing your dyno numbers as well. Just a dyno trick, no real power gain.
I thought about possibly removing the filter afterwords, but even beforehand, I didn't notice a difference. I do now have a K&N in.
I usually run higher pressure in the tires as is but I thought dyno's took into factor your tire size along with the gear ratio?
Colder temps? It was a pretty brisk 48-50 degrees out Saturday, so not much more optimal than that. Matter of fact, I'm thinking that may be partially responsible for the excellent numbers I got.
There are several dyno's around here that I've had it on and FLP's has consistently been the kindest to my car. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
I thought about a cut-out, but in all honesty, the cat-back is is a straight pipe anyway. I may get the QTEC though. I want to keep my stealthiness when not "on it". <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
John, how much gain is it worth on TB's? I thought our TB's already flowed more than the Intake could handle? But was that for the LS1 intake?
MAF-T is another thought and yes, mine is a stock albeit descreened MAF.
I need to take a look at my A-Tap log tonight. I'm also curious if I had any KR when I was running lean.
My best was 395.8rwhp on my rather conservative setup (compared to some heads and cammed cars now) and all I need is at least 4.2rwhp to "officially" become a member of the 400rwhp club.
I know I'm running waaayyyy too lean from 2,800 - 5,500rpm. It's in the 14.0:1 - 13.0:1 range steadily dropping as the rpm's increase. After that at WOT throttle it's in the 12.9 - 12.5 range and at that same point (5,500rpm and up), I make my maximum HP (5,900 is where it makes the most). So A/F at this point in the curve isn't an issue.
I'm working on the tuning issue with Steve Cole, but that will only bring my torque back up in that affected range and not help maximum power.
So I'm thinking what else I can do here?!
Here's what I got;
-GTP heads/cam
-LS6 intake
-Grotoyhann headers/random tech cats/G-Hann Y-pipe
-ATR cat-back
-Direct-Flo lid
-Stock MAF
-Stock TB
-NGK TR6 plugs
-MSD 8.5mm wires
-ASP pullies
I've thought about doing a bigger TB since I now have the LS6 intake. I don't really want to touch the MAF for tuning issues and I've even contemplated putting 1.8 rockers in. But I really don't want to tear into that again (replaced them once already).
Anything I'm missing?
I spoke with Steve Cole at TTS today and he doesn't think I'm running as lean as the DynoJet sensor thinks I am. He doesn't think too highly of their sniffers. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
He suggested a few things but first things first is to look in my A-Tap logs. He also asked about what kind of fuel, when the last time I changed my filter was, and what my fuel pressure was. I used premium Amoco 93 octane, changed my filter about three months ago, and I think I'll get a fuel pressure gauge to see if perhaps my stock fuel pump isn't feeding me enough go-go juice.
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Installation isn't an issue, I've had everything on this car apart multiple times and the axles comes out next. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
A Carbon fiber D.S. is out due to sheer cost.
Or port your own or see if any MFBA folks have one.
Just clean it up... It's worth 3-6rwhp to clean it up on a heads/ cam car.
I'd rather get another one already ported or a another stock unit as I don't want to mess with my stock one.
I also think I found my lost HP....I'm getting KR again! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> I think it may be due to lack of fuel.
I'll get more detailed when I sit down and fully analyze A-Tap data.
I'll post those numbers when I get a chance.
<strong>A ported throttel body can be worth ~5 to 8 RWHP and you should change the parameters on your CAT over temp since you still have CATs. I don't have CAT's and shut off the CAT over temp and picked up ~ 12 RWHP!</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">What's CAT over temp ? how do you turn it off?
Thanks







