Raising the idle manually?!!
Anyway, moving to Computer Diagnostics and Tuning... <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
<small>[ November 28, 2002, 10:40 AM: Message edited by: Colonel ]</small>
I was able to get it to run better with this method and did get it to run without surging or stahling.
Without autotap or efilive it will be a real b!tch to know if your getting it to where the idle needs to be.
After LS1Edit though, its running great.
There is a TABLE in the PCM, that contains the target idle. Drill a half inch hole in your TB, it doesn't matter, the PCM will attempt to make your engine idle at the value set in the TABLE.
For example, in an A4 computer, this value may be 550 RPMs. You will NOT be able to raise the idle to 900 RPM without programming. The PCM will always be trying to make the engine go to 550 RPM, and will adjust as much as it can (IAC) to get there.
So, to actually raise the idle, you need programming. LS1Edit or a professional tune can get you there.
One thing to keep in mind, even if you program the idle up, you may have to drill the TB blade to flow more air in to the motor at idle, to get your IAC counts in check. Ideally they should be between 40-60 at warm idle. If they're 100+, then you need to drill the TB blade to bring the IAC counts back down.
-Andrew
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Now, it won't really raise your idle but it will help the car from stalling out when coming to a stop. You can try doing this instead of drilling the blade out. So the short answer is that you can improve your idle stability.
<strong>I have two friends with 6-speeds. They both did h/C packages and to set the idle higher where the car wouldn't die they just drilled a hole in the throttle body. It worked fine for both of them. I don't see why this wouldn't work. It is the same thing as barely pushing down the pedal inside of the car to open the TB. Does what you guys are talking about refer to A4 cars only? I would still think it would apply..?? Please explain.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I agree...with a 230 cam my Vette couldnt idle without tuning until we drilled the throttle body...theory or not, it works.
Another trick is to create a small vaccume leak in the pcv tubing. If you poke a pencil size hole in the pcv tube near the right side head it will effectivly raise your idle and the relearn will not correct this. This isnt the smartest way, but it works.
...But, the idle speed will still be where it's programmed to be. Autotap and you will see. You will see "Desired Idle Speed" (on my stock '02 A4 it is 650 in neutral and 550 in gear for example.) That is what the IAC attempts to maintain. If the RPM goes above this number the IAC pintel pushes in. If it goes below this number the IAC pulls out. The only way the IAC will not keep the idle at this RPM is if there is so much airflow (airhole too big) that the pintel is pushed all the way in (pintel position at zero.) (This is a good reason to drill the hole only big enough as to bring the pintel position counts down to 20-30 WITH THE ENGINE FULLY WARMED.) In this case a code will soon be set and the IAC will COMPLETELY cease to function for the duration of that driving cycle or until the code is cleared. Is this a bad thing? Yes. Your idle will be eratic. It'll change when conditions (engine temp, weather changes, etc)change. It'll be higher sometimes and it'll be lower sometimes. And it will STILL by prone to hunting, surging, and stalling.
Hook up the Autotap, drill a hole, or crack open the blade, and monitor the IAC and the idle speed. You'll see what I'm talking about. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
<small>[ December 05, 2002, 11:36 AM: Message edited by: Colonel ]</small>
I really don't see how that's possible. You tried this and monitored your engine RPM with a diagnostic scanner? What was it before and after? ...And the IAC pintel position counts were not at zero (that would be the only way I could see the idle RPM actually changing?) No code was ever set?
Regardless of how you go about introducing more air into the engine the PCM is still going to read the correct RPM and will still use the IAC to see to it that the actual RPM and the "desired idle speed" match. I don't see any way around that and if I'm wrong I'm most confused as to how. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Good job! <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
Why can't the PCM figure out the RPM is different? It will still read the correct rpm. It'll see that it's higher than the desired idle speed and it should take measures to match the two. Why wouldn't it?
About the catch can... The answer is no. The idle speed doesn't change. I watched NineBall do it the other day and his idle was uneffected.
<strong>Hey, the Colonel ain't just fast, he actually understands how some of this stuff works! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Good job! <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks! Hang around this stuff long enough and some of it's bound to sink in! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
<small>[ December 05, 2002, 11:43 AM: Message edited by: Colonel ]</small>







