FASST

Hey Matt, I just got back from Xtreme and I've got the same code. I've had a couple of intermittent O2 sensor codes since my header install two years ago, but never this one. I have a thought...I'm still under the impression that the sensor is just not getting warm enough fast enough (it was damn cold this morning when I fired the old girl up--yeah, 40 degrees is now damn cold to me <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> ). So my question to everyone is, when you turn the key to run, do the O2 heaters turn on? If so, would doing this for a couple seconds before starting the car heat the sensors sufficiently to not throw the code?

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

Can you post all codes that it sets and If poss. what codes & when(tempurture engine)+ i.m.o. With all your mods you would benifit greatly with LS1 edit. I deal with these problems daily ,but with the aid of a tech 2 ,digital storage ocilliscope, & a digital volt ohm meter.I would be glad to offer some input . Are you running the stock pcm programming? Positive you do not have an o2 contamination issue? (the cadavalier test aside?) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Team ZR-1

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by FASST:
<strong>Hey Matt, I just got back from Xtreme and I've got the same code. I've had a couple of intermittent O2 sensor codes since my header install two years ago, but never this one. I have a thought...I'm still under the impression that the sensor is just not getting warm enough fast enough (it was damn cold this morning when I fired the old girl up--yeah, 40 degrees is now damn cold to me <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> ). So my question to everyone is, when you turn the key to run, do the O2 heaters turn on? If so, would doing this for a couple seconds before starting the car heat the sensors sufficiently to not throw the code?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">02 heaters should come on as long as engine is considered cold, open loop.

Another thing that can cause 02 temp issues is not enough backpressure, thus exhaust moves too quickly through exhaust, is then cooler and keeps 02s cooler.

C5 Tweaker

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> The codes are being set in hot or cold weather, and not upon startup. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Sure sounds like an air leak or no heater current.

verbs

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by C5 Tweaker:
<strong>Since you have AutoTap, what is the O2 voltage doing on a cold start? Do they both drop in voltage at about the same rate? How many seconds before they start switching (cold start, idle only)?

What are the minimum and maximum voltages do they achieve at cruise? What are the voltages near redline at WOT?

</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well, the voltages are normal at WOT, but at idle I noticed something wierd. My B1S1 o2 sensor will show voltage readings lower than the other B2S1 o2 sensor.

For example, the B1S1 will switch from .700 to .030 to .750 to .040 to .800 to .040 to .770 to .050 or something like that at Idle.

The B2S1 will switch from .700 to .200 to .740 to .310 to .720 to .240 to .810 to .300, etc...

You get the idea. The B1S1 seems to be dipping a lot lower than the B2S1 at idle for some reason.

Also, all my codes are being thrown when the car is under 2000rpms.

I didn't look at the other questions you had, but I'll do that tomorrow.

<small>[ December 18, 2002, 02:22 AM: Message edited by: verbs ]</small>

Sparky

Since you're not getting anywhere, here's a shot in the dark!

At the back of the driver's cyl head are two grounding studs for the PCM with 3 grounding wires attached. One of those wires is used for the O2 heater circuit.

Hope this helps!

MarkT

2K T/A Driver

I am throwing these codes..

P0134 HO2S Circuit Insuff. Activity Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0135 HO2S Heater Ckt. Bank 1 Sensor
P0174 Fuel Trim System Lean Bank
P0300 Engine Misfire Detected
P0507 Idle System High -IAC Responding
P1258 Engine Metal Overtemperature Protection
P1133 HO2S Insuff. Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1

All after a header install... I cleared the PCM and the SES came back on after abotu 80 miles of driving.. Haven't had a chance to get them scanned again yet..

MMI Z28

i used to get heater codes all the time. I changed search for everything. even ran new power wires. when it came down to it i replaced the o2 extentions and it cured everything. I would try that and see what it does for you.

NoGo

iTrader: (2)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2K T/A Driver:
<strong> I am throwing these codes..

P0134 HO2S Circuit Insuff. Activity Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0135 HO2S Heater Ckt. Bank 1 Sensor
P0174 Fuel Trim System Lean Bank
P0300 Engine Misfire Detected
P0507 Idle System High -IAC Responding
P1258 Engine Metal Overtemperature Protection
P1133 HO2S Insuff. Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1

All after a header install... I cleared the PCM and the SES came back on after abotu 80 miles of driving.. Haven't had a chance to get them scanned again yet.. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">eek, that looks like you may have an air leak somewhere causing your car to run excessivly lean. I would check you intake at all points after the MAF for a leak before writing off those codes.

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

Could also be a burnt wiring harness. Check to make sure all wiring is clear of the headers. Not sure if there is wire harness on the drivers side or not near the exhaust. Whats with the overtemp protection code???

verbs

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MMI Z28:
<strong> i used to get heater codes all the time. I changed search for everything. even ran new power wires. when it came down to it i replaced the o2 extentions and it cured everything. I would try that and see what it does for you. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I've swapped those and no dice. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

verbs

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Sparky:
<strong> Since you're not getting anywhere, here's a shot in the dark!

At the back of the driver's cyl head are two grounding studs for the PCM with 3 grounding wires attached. One of those wires is used for the O2 heater circuit.

Hope this helps!

MarkT </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I'll look into that one, thanks!

MMI Z28

make sure you havent blown a fuse under the hood. I used to blow them as well. everything welded up as well?