I know it is the Knock Sensor Circuit Low Voltage code, but how do I fix it? I figured to just replace the knock sensors, but I had a friend tell me that may not fix it. How is this problem fixxed on a 2000 Z28?
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Julio

 

There is a problem in some cars where water gets under the intake and into the KR resivoir. This shorts out your connection.

To fix your problem and stop it from happening again, you will have to either replace the knock sensor or harness, then make a small silicon damn around the rear knock sensor resivior to stop water from getting in.

Good Luck,
Kevin

 

Good luck. I ended up turning off the code with LS1edit. I tried everything from replacing the knock sensor to replace the harness and checking the connections at the PCM. Nothing worked to fix it the "right way".

 

Hey Nic, you probably need to replace your pcm. It sounds like you've done all the troubleshooting by checking knock sensors, wire, etc. All that's left as the cause is a bad pcm.

 

Did you torque the Knock sensors to proper spec? its very vital to do that in an effort to be on the fine line between real knock and false knock.
I had a constant 3.9 degree of kr on my car after i had the sensors out and i jsut tightend them tight once i put them back in and thats when i got the false knock wehn the car had like 0.0 all the time before except when temps got up to 180-200 then it would register knock. I could register knock jsut by tapping on the power steering pump lightly with a 10mm wrench thats how sesitve it made it guess on how tight to make them.

 

Did you torque the Knock sensors to proper spec? its very vital to do that in an effort to be on the fine line between real knock and false knock.
I had a constant 3.9 degree of kr on my car after i had the sensors out and i jsut tightend them tight once i put them back in and thats when i got the false knock wehn the car had like 0.0 all the time before except when temps got up to 180-200 then it would register knock. I could register knock jsut by tapping on the power steering pump lightly with a 10mm wrench thats how sensitve it made it guess on how tight to make them.

 

Did you torque the Knock sensors to proper spec? its very vital to do that in an effort to be on the fine line between real knock and false knock.
I had a constant 3.9 degree of kr on my car after i had the sensors out and i jsut tightend them tight once i put them back in and thats when i got the false knock wehn the car had like 0.0 all the time before except when temps got up to 180-200 then it would register knock. I could register knock jsut by tapping on the power steering pump lightly with a 10mm wrench thats how sensitive it made it when you guess on how tight to make them.

 

Courtesy of GM's SI2000 system;

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">DTC P0327 Knock Sensor (KS) 1 Circuit




Circuit Description
The Knock Sensor (KS) system detects engine detonation. The PCM retards the spark timing based on the signals from the knock sensors. The knock sensors produce an AC voltage. The knock sensor voltages are an input to the PCM. The amount of AC voltage produced is proportional to the amount of knock.

An operating engine produces a normal amount of engine mechanical vibration (noise). The knock sensors produce an AC voltage signal from this noise. When an engine operates, the PCM learns the minimum and maximum frequency of the noise the engine produces. When the PCM determines that this frequency is less than or greater than the expected amount, a knock sensor DTC sets.

Conditions for Running the DTC
The engine run time is greater than 20 seconds.
The engine coolant temperature is greater than 70°C (158°F).
The engine speed is between 1,500 and 3,500 RPM.
The TP sensor angle is greater than 0.5%.
The MAP is less than 60 kPa.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
The PCM determines that this frequency is less than or greater than the expected amount for less than 3 seconds.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The PCM illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
The PCM records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the PCM stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the PCM records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The PCM writes the conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The PCM turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A last test failed, or current DTC, clears when the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
Use a scan tool in order to clear the MIL and the DTC.
Diagnostic Aids

Important
Remove any debris from the PCM connector surfaces before servicing the PCM. Inspect the PCM connector gaskets when diagnosing/replacing the PCM. Ensure that the gaskets are installed correctly. The gaskets prevent contaminate intrusion into the PCM.
For any test that requires probing the PCM or a component harness connector, use the Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A . Using this kit prevents damage to the harness connector terminals.

Inspect the knock sensor for proper installation. A knock sensor that is loose or over torqued may cause the DTC P0327 to set.
Using the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data may aid in locating an intermittent condition. If you cannot duplicate the DTC, the information included in the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data can help determine how many miles since the DTC set. The Fail Counter and Pass Counter can also help determine how many ignition cycles the diagnostic reported a pass and/or a fail. Operate the vehicle within the same freeze frame conditions (RPM, load, vehicle speed, temperature etc.) that you observed. This will isolate when the DTC failed.
For an intermittent, refer to Symptoms .
Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

This verifies the malfunction is present. The scan tool will display DTC Ran=Yes and Pass=Int if the failure is intermittent. This indicates the diagnostic passed this ignition cycle and failed this ignition cycle. At this point the resistance of the knock sensors should be verified to be in the correct range. If the knock sensor resistances are correct, inspect the KS system wiring connections. When inspecting the KS system connections, start at the KS system jumper harness connector located behind the intake manifold. Then inspect the connections at the PCM. Refer to the wiring schematic for the correct connector and terminal. Then inspect the connections at the appropriate knock sensor. Failure Records data does not include the parameter KS Activity, however other parameters may aid in locating the conditions under which an intermittent occurred.

This test will isolate the Knock Sensor from the rest of the circuit.

Tap on the engine block near the appropriate knock sensor.


Step 1
Did you perform the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check?
--
Yes: Go to Step 2
No: Go to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check

Step 2

Important
If an engine knock can be heard, repair the engine mechanical condition before proceeding with this diagnostic.

1) Turn ON the ignition leaving the engine OFF.
2) Review the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data for this DTC and observe the parameters.
3) Turn OFF the ignition for 15 seconds.
4) Start the engine.
5) Operate the vehicle within the conditions required for this diagnostic to run, and as close to the conditions recorded in Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records as possible. Special operating conditions that you need to meet before the PCM will run this diagnostic, where applicable, are listed in Conditions for Running the DTC.
6) Select the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) option and the Specific DTC option, then enter the DTC number using the scan tool.

Does the scan tool indicate that this diagnostic failed this ignition?
--
Yes: Go to Step 3
No: Go to Diagnostic Aids.

Step 3
1) Disconnect the knock sensor electrical connector located behind the intake manifold.
2) Measure the resistance of the appropriate knock sensor by connecting the DMM J 39200 between the knock sensor signal circuit on the sensor side and the engine block.
3) Set the DMM to the 400K ohm scale.

Is the resistance of the knock sensor within the specified range?
Specified Range = 93-107Kohms

Yes: Go to Step 4
No: Go to Step 6

Step 4
1) Connect the DMM J 39200 between the front knock sensor signal circuit on the sensor side and the engine block.
2) Set the DMM to the AC voltage scale.

Important
Do not tap on any plastic components.

3) Tap on the engine near the appropriate knock sensor while observing the signal indicated on the DMM.

Is any signal indicated on the DMM while tapping on the engine near the Knock Sensor?
--
Yes: Go to Step 5
No: Go to Step 7

Step 5
1) Disconnect the PCM connector C2 located on the same side as the manufacturers logo. Refer to PCM Replacement/Programming .
2) Test the KS signal circuit between the PCM and the knock sensor connector for the following:
- An open.
- A short to voltage.
- A short to ground.
3) If you find a condition repair the circuit as necessary. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Yes: Go to Step 10
No: Go to Step 8

Step 6
1) Remove the intake manifold. Refer to Intake Manifold Replacement in Engine Mechanical-5.7L for.
2) Test for an open or a short to ground in the signal circuit between the knock sensor jumper harness connector, located at the back of the intake manifold, and the knock sensor connector.
3) If you find a condition repair the circuit as necessary. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Yes: Go to Step 10
No: Go to Step 7

Step 7
Replace the appropriate Knock Sensor. Refer to Knock Sensor (KS) Replacement .

Is the action complete?
--
Yes: Go to Step 10

Step 8
1) Inspect the KS signal circuit for a poor terminal connection at the PCM. Refer to Intermittents and Poor Connections Diagnosis in Wiring Systems.
2) If you find a poor connection repair, the condition as necessary. Refer to Repairing Connector Terminals in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Yes: Go to Step 10
No: Go to Step 9

Step 9

Important:
Program the replacement PCM. Refer to PCM Replacement/Programming .

Replace the PCM.

Is the action complete?
--
Yes: Go to Step 10

Step 10
1) Select the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) option and the Clear DTC Information option using the scan tool.
2) Idle the engine at the normal operating temperature.
3) Select the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) option and the Specific DTC option, then enter the DTC number using the scan tool.
4) Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text, if applicable.

Does the scan tool indicate that this test ran and passed?
--
Yes: Go to Step 11
No: Go to Step 2

Step 11
Select the Capture Info option and the Review Info option using the scan tool.

Does the scan tool display any DTCs that you have not diagnosed?
--
Yes: Go to the applicable DTC table
No: System OK</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">

 

If the 0327 code can be tripped by moisture, such as washing the engine, is it possible it will dry out and resume working normally? or does the moisture do permanent damage?

 

Anyone????

 

Damage will be permanent. Once a connection looses continuity it will begin to arc. The arcing will cause resistance, thus diminishing the connection even further.

 

Ditto what Speed said. But what leads up to that continuity loss is how well sealed all electrical connections/contacts are. If they are poorly sealed, therefore allowing air in, the air will cause it (connections/contacts) to corrode, therefore leading to that loss of continuity.

 

After changing both Knock Sensors and the wiring-harness, the code still comes back? WTF??

 

No one?

 

I did the same thing. I replaced the wire harness and both sensors, and torqued them down right. But, the code came back within a couple of days. After some research, I think I am about 75% sure that the programming that was done on my PCM was not done properly. From what little I understand, I think when I had the RPM's raised it was not done right. I think they only raised it in one spot or something, and this caused the code due to some bug in LS1 edit. I really don't know, butI am going to try to fix it. Next week I am going to get a Predator programmer, set the PCM back to stock and reprogram it. I will let you know how this works once it is done, hopefully around tue night or wed sometime.