No Air Conditioning at stop (i.e. red lights)
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 121
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From: Corpus Christi/College Station, TX
No Air Conditioning at stop (i.e. red lights) Hey everyone,
About a year ago I had a TR224 put in my car and HP tuners by Fastech. I picked the car up in the evening time and everything seemed fine. As time went on, I noticed that when I come to a stop, there is no cold air.
Instead, when I come to a stop at a stoplight or stop sign hot air just immediately starts blowing. I can put it into neutral or hold the brake and feather the throttle (an automatic with no torque convertor) to allow cold air to appear. Is it pretty clear that this is caused by the tune that was done on the car?
That is the best thing I can figure but as you'll know Fastech is out of business and I currently don't have another $400 to drop on taking my car somewhere else to get a full tune to fix the A/C.
About a year ago I had a TR224 put in my car and HP tuners by Fastech. I picked the car up in the evening time and everything seemed fine. As time went on, I noticed that when I come to a stop, there is no cold air.
Instead, when I come to a stop at a stoplight or stop sign hot air just immediately starts blowing. I can put it into neutral or hold the brake and feather the throttle (an automatic with no torque convertor) to allow cold air to appear. Is it pretty clear that this is caused by the tune that was done on the car?
That is the best thing I can figure but as you'll know Fastech is out of business and I currently don't have another $400 to drop on taking my car somewhere else to get a full tune to fix the A/C.
Air conditioning / heat airflow is controlled by vacuum
operated diverter flaps, too low an idle vacuum (high
idle MAP) may make the gizmos quit working. You'd
think a 224 range cam would not be -that- hard to get
tuned but maybe idle quality was not a priority. Setting
a higher idle RPM, more idle spark advance and cleaning
up the idle mixture (likely corrupted by long tubes in
the fuel trimming) should restore the air handler function.
operated diverter flaps, too low an idle vacuum (high
idle MAP) may make the gizmos quit working. You'd
think a 224 range cam would not be -that- hard to get
tuned but maybe idle quality was not a priority. Setting
a higher idle RPM, more idle spark advance and cleaning
up the idle mixture (likely corrupted by long tubes in
the fuel trimming) should restore the air handler function.
