H/C/I on 02 Z06
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2005
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H/C/I on 02 Z06 I am getting ready to install etp215's,TR 223/234 .636/.599 114lsa, Fast 90/NW90 and svo 30lbers on a bolt-on 02 Z06. I need some basic giudelines for a starting tune for the above mods. I've read to decrease the first columns of my ve by 30%, re-scale my injectors and to bump the idle a bit but beyond that I'm not sure. The cam has almost no overlap and I'm concerned about my timing and the 90/90 set-up. I don't want to hurt the motor, what can I do to ensure a safe start-up? Thanks guys!
1. do not learn on a modded car, especially with bigger cam and fast 90/90. it will be a nightmare. tune your car before mods. not only it's way easier and actually you can learn something, but can spot potential problems before you make changes, and end up chasing your tail for weeks.
2. do NOT rescale injectors, it's not something that gets rescaled, but just calculated
whatever you've been reading is crap, so i'd find better sources. watch dates of posts as you read, the methodology has greatly improved in the past 2 yrs, but a lot of people are still stubborn and stick to the old methods. consistency is also important--take one writeup that sounds good and stick to it, dont try to hodgepodge your methods, you're gonna get seriously confused.
stickes are your best bet as far as source of good info.
start with hardware setup: injectors set up for proper flow/pressure, cylinder volume, and initial 'ballpark' of VE are all absolutely crucial. with these things screwed up, you'll never get it right.
then start doing VE. once that stabilizes, do RAF at whatever idle rpm it seems to run well. adjust timing in all relevant tables, they all must agree.
this should keep you busy for at least a week if you dont have any mechanical gremlins
but first, take the time and do the whole thing on the pre-modded car, you dont want to be learning procedures, methodology, software, and concepts all at the same time. if you want it done right, you better be fully familiar with all these things, and just make the whole upgrade process into a tuning readjustment.
2. do NOT rescale injectors, it's not something that gets rescaled, but just calculated
whatever you've been reading is crap, so i'd find better sources. watch dates of posts as you read, the methodology has greatly improved in the past 2 yrs, but a lot of people are still stubborn and stick to the old methods. consistency is also important--take one writeup that sounds good and stick to it, dont try to hodgepodge your methods, you're gonna get seriously confused.
stickes are your best bet as far as source of good info.
start with hardware setup: injectors set up for proper flow/pressure, cylinder volume, and initial 'ballpark' of VE are all absolutely crucial. with these things screwed up, you'll never get it right.
then start doing VE. once that stabilizes, do RAF at whatever idle rpm it seems to run well. adjust timing in all relevant tables, they all must agree.
this should keep you busy for at least a week if you dont have any mechanical gremlins
but first, take the time and do the whole thing on the pre-modded car, you dont want to be learning procedures, methodology, software, and concepts all at the same time. if you want it done right, you better be fully familiar with all these things, and just make the whole upgrade process into a tuning readjustment.
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Sunny London, UK
Definately go crazy on your stock pcm first. You can always flash it back to stock afterall.
Timing will be out the window with all that stuff, idle will suck, if it idles at all, etc, etc. Get learning now and mess with all the tables RHS mentions so you know what they do BEFORE you eat the acid tab.
Timing will be out the window with all that stuff, idle will suck, if it idles at all, etc, etc. Get learning now and mess with all the tables RHS mentions so you know what they do BEFORE you eat the acid tab.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 395
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Originally Posted by RedHardSupra
1. do not learn on a modded car, especially with bigger cam and fast 90/90. it will be a nightmare. tune your car before mods. not only it's way easier and actually you can learn something, but can spot potential problems before you make changes, and end up chasing your tail for weeks.
2. do NOT rescale injectors, it's not something that gets rescaled, but just calculated
whatever you've been reading is crap, so i'd find better sources. watch dates of posts as you read, the methodology has greatly improved in the past 2 yrs, but a lot of people are still stubborn and stick to the old methods. consistency is also important--take one writeup that sounds good and stick to it, dont try to hodgepodge your methods, you're gonna get seriously confused.
stickes are your best bet as far as source of good info.
start with hardware setup: injectors set up for proper flow/pressure, cylinder volume, and initial 'ballpark' of VE are all absolutely crucial. with these things screwed up, you'll never get it right.
then start doing VE. once that stabilizes, do RAF at whatever idle rpm it seems to run well. adjust timing in all relevant tables, they all must agree.
this should keep you busy for at least a week if you dont have any mechanical gremlins
but first, take the time and do the whole thing on the pre-modded car, you dont want to be learning procedures, methodology, software, and concepts all at the same time. if you want it done right, you better be fully familiar with all these things, and just make the whole upgrade process into a tuning readjustment.
2. do NOT rescale injectors, it's not something that gets rescaled, but just calculated
whatever you've been reading is crap, so i'd find better sources. watch dates of posts as you read, the methodology has greatly improved in the past 2 yrs, but a lot of people are still stubborn and stick to the old methods. consistency is also important--take one writeup that sounds good and stick to it, dont try to hodgepodge your methods, you're gonna get seriously confused.
stickes are your best bet as far as source of good info.
start with hardware setup: injectors set up for proper flow/pressure, cylinder volume, and initial 'ballpark' of VE are all absolutely crucial. with these things screwed up, you'll never get it right.
then start doing VE. once that stabilizes, do RAF at whatever idle rpm it seems to run well. adjust timing in all relevant tables, they all must agree.
this should keep you busy for at least a week if you dont have any mechanical gremlins
but first, take the time and do the whole thing on the pre-modded car, you dont want to be learning procedures, methodology, software, and concepts all at the same time. if you want it done right, you better be fully familiar with all these things, and just make the whole upgrade process into a tuning readjustment.
Bottom line, assuming everything mechanical is correct, is this thing going to idle with the 90/90 and a 1* overlap camshaft? Do I get an initial ballpark ve table from the repository as I have no idea what it should look like with my future mods? Will my stock timing table be ok to start with?
BTW I am using HPT 1-bar SD, LM-1 WB.
Thanks again.
i think i have the spreadsheet with svo 30s in there by default as an example, so if that's your setup (did you measure your fuel pressure?) then go right ahead.
i would NOT assume that it's all gonna be mechanically sound. headers and intakes (especially FAST) are notorious for introducing leaks. so unless you've done this ten times before and know exactly what to look for, I doubt it will go without problems.
I can send you a 'ballpark' VE if you tell me more about the setup (email's the best), but from what you already told us, it's not gonna be pretty. Fast 90/90 seriously adds another dimension of difficulty of tuning. If it didn't flow that damn well I'd never recommend it
your stock timing will definitely make your life more difficult.
i would NOT assume that it's all gonna be mechanically sound. headers and intakes (especially FAST) are notorious for introducing leaks. so unless you've done this ten times before and know exactly what to look for, I doubt it will go without problems.
I can send you a 'ballpark' VE if you tell me more about the setup (email's the best), but from what you already told us, it's not gonna be pretty. Fast 90/90 seriously adds another dimension of difficulty of tuning. If it didn't flow that damn well I'd never recommend it
your stock timing will definitely make your life more difficult.
The car isn't that hard to tune but I would even say sned the tune to someone that know's a starting point or have it tuned first by someone that know's what they are doing.Vette's have calculated airflow tables that HAVE TO be changed or the car can go into limp mode.Also there are MAP sensor tables that have to be changed or the car will always idle like crap.
As I said,your car is easy to tune for someone that does it for a living.I would figure it would take me 30 minute's to do it 100% but I've done a ton of them.
As I said,your car is easy to tune for someone that does it for a living.I would figure it would take me 30 minute's to do it 100% but I've done a ton of them.
