so the only thing the stock ecm needs is timing the rest is control by the maf pro correct? i mean is 400 bucks thats 50 bucks less then wat they charge me for a speed des complete tune

 

sorry for the dumb question but what program would I need to run a maffless tune on my 98????

 

hp tuners, same as i will since we are bless with 98 ecm's,they have a new 2 bar SD software out for the 98 ecm's.

 

so all you need is the 2 bar map sensor and HP software??

 

the hp software for the coversion to SD on a 98 ecm thats it

 

yes, you will also need a 2 bar MAP sensor.

 

And your still only good to 14.7 psi.......

what i posted u have a 3 bar......
Alot of us started before HP Tuners had a SD tune for 98's. They had posted before that they would NEVER do a SD tune for 98's. So alot of us said screw them.......
So.......

 

Where are some good resourses to learn more about tuning with an HP Tuners?

 

HPTuners has a forum on there website...that's a good place to learn some stuff. You may have to register in order to see anything.

 

im going to be doin a sts kit within the next couple weeks so this is a helpful thread to me, i was thinking to go get a tune with my MAF but now thinkin to do a SD, but now im also thinkin maybe i should just buy HP tuners because i also have another ls1 car to tune that is n/a and i have a buddy that needs a tune but i am really new to this. so here is my question....With the HP tuner could i find someone with the simular setup as me and download their tune so i could get a nice start and modify there tune if i wanted?

 

Read some of the posts/responses. I did my own 2-bar setup in December, so here's my $0.02

First you need a 2-bar (or 3-bar sensor if you're making over 14.7psi) For the 2-bar it's the baro sensor from the Cobalt SS. Part # can be found in the sticky in this forum on forced induction FAQ.

To tune in 2-bar SD requires buying a 2-bar SD conversion if using HP Tuners (cost is 2 credits or $100, whatever unit you want to use )

Begin by tuning the car part throttle in 1-bar SD. This will make the 2-bar conversion much mo' easier. Once the VE table is set up to 100kpa (ie part throttle), install the 2-bar sensor and install the conversion, which requires a "rewrite entire" of the PCM.

HP Tuners will provide step-by-step instructions for doing this. In short, add about 10%-20% to the 100-210kpa values from your current 100kpa values and then begin tuning from there. It isn't rocket science by any means, just a slow approach to note the values in the VE table for the new values and adjusting accordingly. To get the most of it, you'll need to dyno-tune the WOT full boost cells. Also, I wouldn't do any tuning w/out a WB O2 sensor.....period!!!!!

This was a very condensed version, but it can be done even by a novice. I tuned my car 1-bar SD in a week and had the 2-bar setup done in 3 days. Spent about 3 hours a day per session. I had only tuned one car other than my own before doing the conversion. I've driven 4K miles sincethe conversion (including many WOT blasts)....and all's well so far.

As far as SD tuning myths, temp fluctuations WON'T affect it. SD uses MAP pressure and IAT (from the intake). Period. Doesnt matter how cold it is outside, the IAT is providing a temp value to the PCM that is used in SD mode. HUMIDITY does affect it somewhat (for DA), but overall, once it's set, it's pretty much good to go

 

if you want to make a more detailed write up on how you did it that would really be awsome.

hmmm and to think i was going to just install the 2 bar while i had the intake off, with out knowing about the 1 bar thing, good save for me!

 

I learned that the hard way Glad I could help..

I could write it up in detail, but HP Tuners guide for doing the conversion is pretty complete.

 

Great thread......i'll be running a 2bar sd tune on my setup.

 

As i posted on GTO forum,



I dont care what you make as far as rwhp, over 500ish rwhp the maf is pegged out, aka no more then 512g/s. The tuning is then done by PE modifier, this is not the correct way to tune.

Ex, you hit 512 g/s at 4500rpm, maf is done reading anymore, so you add more in by your PE table, well its done in 1000rpm or so increments so your commanding more fuel by rpm, not airflow, not boost.

What happens when the wastegate sticks and he over boosts? The pcm will not know what happened and you WILL go lean and bad things happen.

Also, with PE the tune changes with climate and altitude. Tune it in warm summer, well in the fall with some nice dense air you go lean.

PE is incorrect, why risk a motor when you can pick up a $60 2bar map sensor and run a OS where the PCM knows the boost lingo, fuel by boost, instead of guessing by rpm.

PE vs RPM, does work, and is usualy used by tuners that do not want to put the entire effort into a full VE + 2bar map tune.

I see no reason to chance it by running a cop out way to tuning when there is a perfect way of tuning, you 04-05 guys, EFI has you covered, the 06 HPT is on its way i belive.

We are doing a f1c blower car on a 06, and there was no tuning avalible for SD at the time, so on stock engine it used a MAF, it made 540 or so, and it did use PE at the top end, but its not maxing out in the mid range. Now that were upping boost numbers we swapped out to a standalone Bigstuff 3 computer that uses a 3bar map, the correct way of tuning big boost.

 

i was told that there are some pins that need to be changed around when swapping to a SD tune (using HP Tuners)
any insight on that?

im using a 99+ pcm

thanks

 

Good thread

 

Subscribed

 

there isnt any pin's you change when going 2 bar SD. all you do is just read the how to taht is in the HPT file and follow it, it's VERY easy to do

 

but you do have to repin for a 3 bar?

link to said HPT write up?