Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

I'm still thinking it's a computer/electrical problem. I've kept an eye on the last 10 cars I tuned from stock to big cams to blower setups.None of them switched slow at cruise like the car here

joecar

I am thinking it is electrical.


(BTW: I don't use O2 sensors so I never had this problem).

Andrew91GT

iTrader: (6)

Any updates? I've got the same stuff on my car.... new sensors, can watch the O2's switch with HPtuners...

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

This is not a bad idea, you could gate it pretty simply
with TPS or something like that (boost heat with TPS
< 1V or something). Figuring out the heater power limit
might cost you a couple of victims. Probably need not
be as stout as the BAP but a used one would be fun
to play with.

Though finding ways to get more heat into the sensor
(like the drilling idea) and less out (local heat shields,
wrapping) might be less complicated a project.

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

Back from the dead!

I'm still dealing with this crap.

I had the sensor codes turned off so I could get a sticker. I passed but I still want to fix this insufficient switching problem.

I cleaned all my grounds by scraping to metal, and I installed yet another set of 13111 Bosch sensors. When I look on my hand-held scanner, it's hard to tell for sure without a graph, but they seem to be switching much faster now, and the car seems to run better. I'll have the codes turned back on and see what happens.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...2575#post82575

Read what soundengineer has to say about changing switchpoints on O2 sensors...

Skipper

So opening up the sensor's a bit as posted earlier hasn't worked for you?
I was hoping to try that on mine, i probably will try it anyway

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

I haven't tried it. I might give that a try next time, if there is one. I don't think it will work though.

Maybe we can track down the people that have opened them up and see how they're making out.

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

That's a little over my head. Maybe I can have Slowhawk take a look at it. Thanks for the link.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Why do you expect a diagnostic test designed by GM engineering to run on a stock exhaust system to satisfy the EPA, to run and execute properly with headers and relocated O2 sensors?

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

My expectation is to have the PCM maintain proper AFR with the existing mods on my car.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

I'll ask this -why do so few people have switching problems?I get probly 1 in 20 header cars that have a problem.The 19 have excellent switching while the 1 is slow and lazy.

I just had a car today that was switching slow.We cleaned the grounds -no help.Then we took out the brand new bosch sensors and put in used stock 02's. All fixed, switching real good now.

What I'm saying is that tuning very very rarely is the fix for this problem.It's ussually another problem causing it.

Skipper

While the front o2 codes are acive is the motor running in open loop?

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Well,I've come to the conclusion that the aftermarket Bosch sensors suck Donky Dick Just had another car with the same problem,went through everything and the driver side would not switch over .600 volts (new sensor) Put in a new factory sensor and it now switches extremely fast from 0- .930 volts. It actually helped the pass. side bank speed up too.

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

We should start a log of issues with Bosch O2's. Everyone asks me why I think they're crap and I never have examples handy. All I can say is how I've noticed on several different cars issues with the Bosch sensors. It's like asking someone how they know getting kicked in the ***** hurts. I can't tell you the last time it happened to me. But, I know it hurt like hell...

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

My car has been great until recently. I get the switching code for the driver side once in awhile. Last year I switched to Bosch sensors and they switched reaallly slow, put in old used sensors and switching did improve a little. Eventually settled on one OEM and one Bosch. Go figure.

FWIW - I pulled the freeze frame data when the codes turned on and they always turn on at 58-61 mph in D4 with 12% load and positive STFT's and LTFT's. The codes have never come on with 5% or less trims.

FireSilverLullaby

iTrader: (5)

I just got the PO1133 P0133, but im pretty sure i have an exhaust leak, so hopefully this will fix it but im not 100% confident, becuase the codes came one 3 months after i installed my headers, and ive had a small exhaust leak the whole time.

I just dont want to have to weld my headers to my ypipe

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Im having the same problem with these pieces of ****. When I took out my stockers to replace them with the Bosch 13111's I noticed that the element was shorter. I am sure thats why they suck with lts. I didn't think anything of it so I just put in oem Bosch's and it they worked great at first, then did the same ****. The ses light came on and it started surging.

I need to know what the part number is for the OEM sensors. I didnt have a problem with those with my lts. Are they Borg Warner's? I just want to get rid of this damn problem.

Candyredz28

iTrader: (4)

So what would be the solution? Who makes better o2's than Bosh that are long enough to reach?

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

I ground down the bungs on my headers by about 1/4", this allowed the Bosch sensors to go farther into the pipe but it did not help.

BTW, the stock sensors have the AC Delco name on them.