MAF question
The two models have slightly different resistor values,
the early years model has a lower value and fakes it
leaner while the later one tries to sorta match the stock
MAF (a better, or at least less worse bet).
For tuning you have either to embark on a voyage of
discovery (SLP providing zero info on the resulting
freq/flow curve from their "calibration") or you just
remove the resistor and use a straight-up truck
table. Of course in that case you'd be about $150
ahead, just buying the truck MAF or a Z06 and a
pigtail or adaptor. Leaving out the value of the half
piece of Fernco hose that also comes with. At least
with a stock piece you don't have to pay someone
by the hour, to dope out the hoax.
the early years model has a lower value and fakes it
leaner while the later one tries to sorta match the stock
MAF (a better, or at least less worse bet).
For tuning you have either to embark on a voyage of
discovery (SLP providing zero info on the resulting
freq/flow curve from their "calibration") or you just
remove the resistor and use a straight-up truck
table. Of course in that case you'd be about $150
ahead, just buying the truck MAF or a Z06 and a
pigtail or adaptor. Leaving out the value of the half
piece of Fernco hose that also comes with. At least
with a stock piece you don't have to pay someone
by the hour, to dope out the hoax.
Both are 5-wire so you need to adapt them up to the
F-body separate MAF & IAT somehow. Casper's sells
an adaptor mini-harness, or you could just cut the last
foot off a junkyard truck and solder it up.
F-body separate MAF & IAT somehow. Casper's sells
an adaptor mini-harness, or you could just cut the last
foot off a junkyard truck and solder it up.
