All of this because of a converter install??
DTC that caused the freeze data=PO300
Throttle position=0.0%
Load value=3.9%
RPM=885
Air flow rate=10.21 GR/SEC
Map sensor=35 KPA
Coolant temp=82º
STFT#1=0.0%
LTFT#1=2.3%
STFT#2=0.0%
LTFT#2=1.5%
STFT#3=50.0%
LTFT#3=-18.8%
STFT#4=57.0%
LTFT#4=-3.4%
Vehicle speed=1 MPH
Fuel system=#1 & #2 open
All of this happened after I installed the Fuddle converter. I'm not saying that it is the converter, but if it's the tune, this ses thing just happened by coincidence after installation??? I started the truck and drove it for awhile and to check fluid levels and ses codes ever since.
What is ya'lls analogy???
James
Thanks for your help!!
James
James
DTC that caused the freeze data=PO300
Throttle position=0.0%
Load value=3.9%
RPM=885
Air flow rate=10.21 GR/SEC
Map sensor=35 KPA
Coolant temp=82º
STFT#1=0.0%
LTFT#1=2.3%
STFT#2=0.0%
LTFT#2=1.5%
STFT#3=50.0%
LTFT#3=-18.8%
STFT#4=57.0%
LTFT#4=-3.4%
Vehicle speed=1 MPH
Fuel system=#1 & #2 open
All of this happened after I installed the Fuddle converter. I'm not saying that it is the converter, but if it's the tune, this ses thing just happened by coincidence after installation??? I started the truck and drove it for awhile and to check fluid levels and ses codes ever since.
What is ya'lls analogy???
James
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James
-18 and -3.4% which means your fuel trims are having to remove fuel(you are running rich). The collective wisdom I have always gone by is/was a properly tuned vehicle that is running a MAF and fuel trims should have no more than +/-2% with a preference of having the trims slightly negative or needing to add fuel. These LSx based vehicles are extremely tolerant meaning they will still run with up to 25% fueling errors. They won't run efficiently or take advantage of their power potential but they will run. To get the full benefit of you bolt-ons and converter as stated before I would in laymans terms desensitize your missfire threshold tables so the lighter converter won't set that code and then I would put your truck in Open Loop Speed Density(turn off your MAF and fuel trims) and redo your basic fueling (VE) tables then turn everything back on and rescale your MAF tables all with a wideband O2 sensor and EFI Live. If you are not getting this type of service with your tune I would expect a explanation from your tuner as to why your fuel trims are so far off.
-18 and -3.4% which means your fuel trims are having to remove fuel(you are running rich). The collective wisdom I have always gone by is/was a properly tuned vehicle that is running a MAF and fuel trims should have no more than +/-2% with a preference of having the trims slightly negative or needing to add fuel. These LSx based vehicles are extremely tolerant meaning they will still run with up to 25% fueling errors. They won't run efficiently or take advantage of their power potential but they will run. To get the full benefit of you bolt-ons and converter as stated before I would in laymans terms desensitize your missfire threshold tables so the lighter converter won't set that code and then I would put your truck in Open Loop Speed Density(turn off your MAF and fuel trims) and redo your basic fueling (VE) tables then turn everything back on and rescale your MAF tables all with a wideband O2 sensor and EFI Live. If you are not getting this type of service with your tune I would expect a explanation from your tuner as to why your fuel trims are so far off.
James
James
is magnify (or rather, take away the mass that used to damp) the
crank ripple. Crank timing jitter is what misfire detection looks for.
CASE learn should happen automagically. You can force it with the
TechII or some of the aftermarket tuning tools. Sometimes crank
learn will be inhibited by existing emissions faults, but you should
see a code for that if so.
My car has had an idle miss from day one. I believe this is just
the proportional fuel swinging from too rich to too lean, like
programmed from the factory. A lighter flywheel mass will let
this show more plainly as well.
I have noticed that when the truck is very cold(50º @ night), it won't run. I can't start it just by starting it. I have to stat the truck like an old school engine. I tried starting it like normal(not having to hit the gas while starting) and it died twice. Then I had to start it while giving it gas at the same time. I'm going to crawl under it tomorrow and see if I left something unplugged. I'm going to ghange injectors, fuel regulator, plugs and check for vaccum leaks again and if I don't find something wrong, I'm just going to do the cam, lifter, push rod, timing chain, heads and new tune. I'm just rinning out of options here. Just for the record, my truck has 20,800 original miles on it.James





