davis80

iTrader: (2)

If anyone could please look at these 2 logs and make any suggestions as to what I need to do to get this thing straightened out I'd be very appreciative. Or if you're feeling really generous, could you make a couple of the changes in the program for me?

I can't get a cold start idle, but once it's warm it'll idle just fine. Also have to give it gas on startup, no just turning the key for me. Any and all help will be appreciated.

Thanks.

logs:
www.dennisandtara.com/12-21_drive_home.hpl
www.dennisandtara.com/12-21_drive_to_work.hpl

bin:
www.dennisandtara.com/12-31-06.bin

foff667

iTrader: (2)

have you touched the idle set screw at all? your settings dont look too far off from where they should be, i had my 231/237 112 cam starting first try & idling with very similar settings.

davis80

iTrader: (2)

I had adjusted the set screw a long time before these logs were taken, but was unsuccessful in getting my IAC counts down. Yesterday I played with it some more, and was able to get my IAC counts down around 30 or so with a hot idle.

My bin files are attached with a .txt on the end that will need removed if you want to look at it.

With this bin (12-31-06 start.bin.txt)
I had these logs:
"warm start.hpl"

Next, I played with the set screw and got my IAC counts down to ~30 and here is the log I did with the lower counts.
"warm start-iac counts ~30.hpl"

Once I got the IAC down to 30 I reflashed the PCM to a tune with the idle lowered by 150 RPM across the board. Here is the bin (12-31-06 idle lowered by 150.bin.txt)
This is the log I took after lowering the Idle.
warm start-iac counts ~30 idle lowered by 150.hpl

After doing this, everything seemed good. The IAC counts would start off really high but then pretty quickly drop down to the 30 range. Then I took this log, which was basically a shortened version of the idle relearn.
idle relearn.hpl

What I did in this log was as follows:
first 0-30s In Park, AC off
30s - 1:30s In Drive, AC off
1:30- 2:30S In Drive, AC on
2:30- 3:30s In Park, AC on
3:30- 4:30s In Park, AC off

Off the top of my head, I can't remember but I'm pretty sure that as soon as I put the car in Drive and was idling, the IAC counts climbed way up to 150. Is this normal?

And last but not least, I took this log on my way to work this morning and it was a cold start. My IAC counts would not come down to below ~90 this morning and I have no idea what caused this. Does anyone have any input?
warm start-iac counts ~30 idle lowered by 150.hpl


Sorry for the long winded response here, but it's better for me to as much info out here to those helping as possible.

Thanks for looking at this guys.

*edit* I'm having trouble getting the tunes attached, so I'll do that when I get home.

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

Here are some of the things that I noticed:

1. Your LTFT's are +10 on average. They should be -4 to 0 on average. The SFTS's also show that the computer is still learning. You will need to increase the VE tables, especially in the upper RPM range to correct this.

2. You have upwards of 4 degrees knock retard when going WOT. This is sucking power. You might want to decrease timing a touch (1 or 2 degrees) and then tune the VE. Once that's set, you can bump up the timing to the origonal values and see if the KR is gone or still present. If still present, you'll need to back the timing off a bit.

3. Check the physical connection from your throttle to the throttle cable. At WOT your throttle position sensor is only showing 87%. It then bleeds down to around 80% at 6K RPM. You might need to adjust the cable a touch (if the bracket was bent when installing the heads), or readjust the actual throttle blade to get 100% at WOT.

4. Be sure the IFR tables and RAF tables are good. RedHot Supra has some wonderful excel tables to calculate all this for you.

Last but not least....put the car in SD mode to tune the above. I saw the MAF was still activated on your scan files. I only checked those in the table & graph views. Didn't get into the actual tune file. You'll need to fail the MAF to get the VE set. I also noted you do not have a wideband signal. This is another necessity for accurate self-tuning.

This will give you a start. I'm no expert....but I know this much needs correcting. Good luck

V6 Bird

iTrader: (15)

If you need the wideband Dennis, you know you are welcome to use. Plus Ill weld in a bung for you for a 6pk of COrona