B4CU

iTrader: (18)

I started my Camaro one day at school and began to drive it home. After it died in the middle of a busy intersection I began to wonder what was wrong with my car. I cranked on it for a while with no luck. I cranked on it longer and then just decided to tac it out for a bit. It seemed to cure the problem of it not wanting to run. I got on the interstate and did a 30 to 80 mph blast and it was fine. About 20 minutes into my drive it began to sputter and became unresponsive to any gas I would give it. It would come and go randomly. I would drop it into drive to bump the RPMs and it would just go away eventually. It made it 80 miles home and didn't die again. I went out a couple days later and tried to start it and it would die. I again just thought I would tac it out. I drove it to the gas station thinking it was bad gas. I put about 6 gallons in it and it still did it. I changed the fuel filter and checked the grounds and it still does it. Has anyone experienced the same problem or know what it is? I have had the car tuned (by a professional) as well if that makes a difference.

B4CU

iTrader: (18)

I am thinking it is the fuel pump and I am not looking forward to cutting a hole in my car. So please, tell me something different.

02trns_am

iTrader: (4)

My car did the EXACT same thing tonight ( I had to have it towed) I changed the PCM back to the stock one and everything seems to be ok. I haven't road tested it but it idles and everything fine.

B4CU

iTrader: (18)

Yeah, the guy that tuned my car had to re-do the timing and fuel tables or something when he did my car because his saved ones got deleted. My brother's car got the exact same tune on the exact same day and it has been fine. I don't think that is the problem. Which tuning program did you use? Also, I checked the fuel pressure at the front of the fuel rail and it seemed to have pressure, but sometimes I will check it and nothing will happen.

02trns_am

iTrader: (4)

You sound exactly like me, I was checking the fuel pressure and it didn't seem like it had much so I thought it was the fuel pump. I really think putting a stock pcm would give it a good chance of running right. I can't say who I got it tuned by just yet. I don't want to be crapping on there name before they have the chance to get back to me.

B4CU

iTrader: (18)

It was the fuel pump. Also, you don't have to drop the rear end to get the gas tank out if you have true dual exhaust. It took about an hour and ten minutes to swap out the fuel pump. We took out the rear end on my brothers car the next day and let me tell you, that it isn't very fun at all. The only reason they say drop the rear end is because of the exhaust. All I say is cut it. Who cares if you have to pay somebody to weld it, it saves you about two and a half hours of work that you don't really have to do.

DRTYBRDLS1

yea i just did a fuel tank swap yesterday, with a lift and air tools took less than an hour! ive tried cutting a hole in my car, it takes longer

BLKWS.6

DAMNIT! my fuel pump is dead to. Mine did the same EXACT thing today, checked pressure at the schrader valve on the rail w/thumb nail...nothing with key on. Finally it ran again (randomly started) and I drove home, shut it off, KEY ONE, and touched the schrader...**** everywhere. Fuel pump swap tomorrow. Who carries them? Oreilys? AZ? Advance Auto? I will probably get GM to do it, $186. Unless my friend calls back and wants to/to help.

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

now would be a great time to put in a 255 or so lph pump instead of another stocker.also a hotwire kit will keep your voltage good and high,that is if you have alittle extra dough and the time to wait on one to get there.

BLKWS.6

Since I am just staying stock, the OEM pump should do, no?

B4CU

iTrader: (18)

Yeah, but they quoted me a GM pump for like $380.00 at Auto Zone and they would have had to order it too. There are some good/cheap aftermarked pumps out there that would do just fine.

PrototypE

With the amount of time it takes to r&r an F-body fuel pump, don't waste your time trying to save some money with a 'cheap' oem replacement. If you're gonna stay stock, get a genuine GM fuel pump. Think about what happens if you buy an Autozone alternator? You saved a few bucks over one direct from the dealer, right? and not if but when it fails, you'll be doing it again in about a year or two. Unless you're following SlowTrap's advice, and stepping up to a 255 lph or better F/P, genuine GM is the only way to go. They're a little more money for a reason! Just trying to help!