LS1 Cranks But Won't Start
#1
LS1 Cranks But Won't Start
2001 engine has been installed in a 75 Datsun 280Z. Stock PCM (reflashed from auto to 6-spd), stock body control module, all Camaro wiring (engine harness is basically unmolested). VATS was disabled when the PCM was reflashed. Tried to start it for the first time yesterday and the engine cranks over but won't start. Good fuel pressure to rail, but no spark and no fuel from the injectors. All the other electrical works fine. I've looked through the service manual but still no luck. It sounds like a VATS problem except that the engine does crank. The only code that comes up is D0118 which has to do with coolant temperature. Any ideas on what I should be looking for?
#3
The service manual suggests the crank or cam sensors as a cause. It says that they can cause a 'no start condition' but it isn't specific about no spark or fuel. I guess I'll look at the specic tests for those next. As for the grounds, there's a battery cable from negative to the block, and another braided ground from the alternator to the frame. I had thought there was supposed to be one from the cylinder head to the firewall, but there was no evidence of one on the motor when it came from the wrecking yard. Should there be one there?
#7
Still need some help....
I've gone thru the service manual 'Cranks but won't start' troubleshooting page and still have the problem. I've checked all the cam and crank sensor wires for continuity and shorts to ground and they check out as good. I've replaced the crank sensor and the engine coolant sensor. All the PCM grounds check out good. The other grounds are all in place. I have a fuel enable signal from the BCM. All the fuses are good. I pulled the MAF connector to run on stored code and that made no difference. I tried the PCM from this car in my Camaro and it fired right up, so I know the PCM is good. The key issue is that there's still no rpm signal from the crank sensor. Is there a way to test the crank sensor with a meter since I don't have access to a dealer scan tool? I'd like to know for sure I didn't get a defective one from the auto parts store. I did a search on this forum and got alot of good info, but nothing has helped. What am I missing???
I've gone thru the service manual 'Cranks but won't start' troubleshooting page and still have the problem. I've checked all the cam and crank sensor wires for continuity and shorts to ground and they check out as good. I've replaced the crank sensor and the engine coolant sensor. All the PCM grounds check out good. The other grounds are all in place. I have a fuel enable signal from the BCM. All the fuses are good. I pulled the MAF connector to run on stored code and that made no difference. I tried the PCM from this car in my Camaro and it fired right up, so I know the PCM is good. The key issue is that there's still no rpm signal from the crank sensor. Is there a way to test the crank sensor with a meter since I don't have access to a dealer scan tool? I'd like to know for sure I didn't get a defective one from the auto parts store. I did a search on this forum and got alot of good info, but nothing has helped. What am I missing???
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#8
9 Second Club/LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,707
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From: Anderson, Indiana
The first thing is to confirm that you are correctly wired to the ignition switch. Are you sure you have 12 volts going to the PCM and system WHILE you are cranking. Many people hook up to an ignition switch terminal that looks fine with the key on, but goes dead during crank. Confirm with a voltmeter or test light that you have 12 volts to the injectors/ignition while you are cranking.
__________________
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
#11
Originally Posted by 98Camarod
I had a similar problem and it was a bad ignition relay.