808ws6

iTrader: (6)

Can a big cam (MS4) be tuned to cold start and immediately drive like a stock cam or do I have to wait a bit and allow it to warm up a bit no matter how good a tune?

Just need to know this before I go nuts trying to make the "impossible" tune.

RIght now, I have my MS4 cammed Ls1 starting immediately drops a bit and finds immediate idle but needs to warm up before I start driving or it surges.
Car is M6 trans eqipped.

To get the cold start where it is now, I have reaised the idle speeds from cold start to 1100 rpm, raised the VE while cranking by 10% and raised the complete Main VE table by 5%.

The warm/hot restarts are similar to the cold starts but I can drive off a bit earlier.

TIA

rv00SS

try playing with the afterstart enrichment tables

jay_99z

iTrader: (5)

Base idle airflow may help too. Try bumping it up a little on the lower temps.

808ws6

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the suggestions!

So does that mean if I tweak it enough, I can get this cam to drive immediately from a cold start just like stock?

What suggestions do you have for the after start enrichment?

I have raisled the base idle speed to 1200 rpm at lower temps and does help.
Should it be more?

Thanks!

Doc

iTrader: (9)

What software are you using? Yes, you can get the warm up down by logging running airflow in gear from a cold start. Just as a side note, when warmed up what are your IAC counts? With the proper enrichment, spark, desair, and position of the TB set screw you should be able to get her dialed in.

FOXYHAWK01

iTrader: (4)

Mine Will Start And Run Cold I Take It Very Easy Less Than 3000rpms For A Few Miles Though.big Springs Cold High Revs = Broke Springs.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

+1, regardless of the tune, you NEED TO LET IT WARM THOSE [valve] SPRINGS UP. With a cam that large I would *never* fire it right up and run of cold.

2QUICK4U -WS6

iTrader: (2)

THIS MAYBE BUT I ALSO HAVE THE MS4 CAMSHAFT AND I AM HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE MAP SENSOR SETTING A P0106 CODE. HOW CAN I HELP THIS BECAUSE IF I AM CORRECT I THINK IT IS BECAUSE THE CAM IS SO BIG AND THERE IS NO VACUUM AT IDLE, SO THAT IS WHY IT IS SETTING THE CODE. NEED HELP TRYING TO TUNE BUT CAN'T BECAUSE OF CODE SETTING THROWING OFF THE PARAMETERS TO GETTING IT TUNED!!!

foff667

iTrader: (2)

usually you just need to turn the test off...in hptuners its under engine diagnostics.

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

2QUICK4U -WS6

iTrader: (2)

WILL THAT LET THE MAP SENSOR OPERATE PROPERLY???

foff667

iTrader: (2)

it'll operate properly, but wont throw that code.

808ws6

iTrader: (6)

I am running EFI live. I have to get back to you on the IAC counts.

My car is a manual M6, so no issues with it in gear.

Any suggestions as to what is a good starting point for spark advance?

TIA

P.S. I do not experience a MAP sensor code.

2QUICK4U -WS6

iTrader: (2)

THE REASON I ASK IS BECAUSE WHEN IN HP TUNERS PROGRAM EVERYTHING RUNS FINE UNTIL IT THROWS THAT CODE. AND THEN IT JUST RUNS EXTREMELY RICH BECAUSE I GUESS IT IS SHOWING THAT THE ENGINE IS RUNNING LEAN. BUT THROUGH THE EXHAUST I GOT STRAIGHT FUEL SMOKE COMING OUT.
MY WHOLE OBJECTIVE IS TO GET THE CAR TUNED SOMEWHAT UNTIL I GET TO THE DYNO!!!

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

Did you perform the RAGIG process from a cold start? If so, your desired idle airflow table (Engine>Idle>General) should be dialed in already. If not, you need to log RAFIG from a cold start and adjust that table. After that has been done, the next step is to adjust the throttle body set screw to bring IAC's close to 70 steps at a warm, steady idle. If it has low IAC steps, you need to open the set screw (or drill a slightly bigger hole). If they are high, you need to close the set screw some. Becareful, if you drill, not to over drill!

Next, I'd change the IAC learning delay times. They're either {B4519} for pre-'01 cars or {B4504} & {B4505} for '01-'02 cars. A few other things you can do are found in this thread: http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=4661

As for timing, what area are you asking about? Idle, cruise, or WOT?

Frost

iTrader: (45)

21-28deg at idle

808ws6

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the suggestion and link, I'll check it out.

What is RAGIG and RAFIG?
How can I find that process so I can get that done first?

Thanks!

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

RAFIG = Running Airflow In Gear
RAGIG = Typo

GM.IAC_LTD_DMA = LTIT In Gear A/C Off
GM.IAC_STD_DMA = STIT In Gear A/C Off
CALC.RAFIG = LTIT + STIT for In Gear

They are found under the Idle section in the logged .pids tab [F8].

You make a map to look like the Desired Idle Airflow table with 1 column and several rows for each ECT temp:

You highlight the entire table in the tuning software, right click, and select copy with labels. Then, when you go to make the map, you hit the paste with labels button on the rows tab and select the ECT pid. The way I create the single column is to reference it to RPMs and use the label ",8000" (yes, use the comma). The RAFIG is the data.

Add the results to the Desired Idle Airflow Table in the tune after logging from a cold start to a warm idle.

808ws6

iTrader: (6)

I was wondering about spark at idle.
As Frost pointed out, I have seen most posts suggesting the same range 21-28.

I also read your other post describing how LS1's do not need much spark hence your timing is set at 40* max and 25* at idle.

I am going to use the RAFIG map you just helped me make (BIG Thanks!) tomorrow after work. I live in Hawaii, apologies for the late replies, I am 5 hours behind you.

Do I perform your Idle Tuning tips AFTER I get my idle mixture control to stay in Open Loop (as asked in other post), or is it ok to do so now after RAFIG?

THanks again!

germeezy1

You can dyno tune the car to idle like stock. The videos of the 511 RWHP 7400 rpm LS1 with a huge cam show how tractable it is.